Home ImprovementRemodelingCleaningGardeningLandscapingInterior DesignHome AppliancesPest ControlDecks & PatiosSwimming Pools & Hot TubsGaragesBasements

How to Diagnose and Repair Your Air Conditioner (A/C) Capacitor

Updated on August 08, 2016
Cre8tor profile image

Dan has been in the HVAC industry for 22 years with experience in aspects ranging from installation and service to sales and distribution.

What's Wrong With Your Air Conditioner?

A capacitor usually resembles a tin can or 9-volt battery.
A capacitor usually resembles a tin can or 9-volt battery. | Source

Capacitors Are a Common Cause of Air Conditioning Breakdowns

Luckily, you can often replace them yourself.

So it's a hot day in the summer sun. The family is coming over this weekend and you're very busy making all the necessary arrangements, when suddenly the A/C quits working. Perfect timing, right?

Well, before you call the local HVAC technician to come fix the unit, and re-allocate the money you were going to spend on burgers, take a quick look. Perhaps you're about to luck out by making a simple repair that will only cost you a few dollars and take very little time.

You won't need any specialty tools, and you may not have to rearrange your entire day. Just a few minutes, a couple of tools you likely have around the house, and these instructions could save you a significant amount of money while keeping your family gathering right on track.

What Is a Capacitor?

Capacitors are small cylindrical objects that store energy. They either send a jolt to start a motor or send jolts to keep a motor running. They work with the compressor, the blower motor, and the outside fan in your air conditioner.

Checking Your Air Conditioning Capacitor

A voltmeter, if you have one, can tell you if you have blown a capacitor, but it’s even simpler to find out just by watching and listening. Take a walk outside to your condensing unit, and look and listen for the following:

  1. Do you hear any humming?
  2. Do you see the fan spinning?

If the A/C is humming but the fan is not running, you may have a capacitor problem.

A Simple Trick to Test if the Capacitor Is Working

If the A/C is humming but the fan is not turning, find yourself a long skinny stick. Gently slide the stick through the fan grate and give one of the fan blades a gentle push, to see if the fan will spin. If the fan takes off on its own and keeps going, you very likely have a bad start capacitor.

You see, the capacitor is there to give a boost to the fan motor upon startup. A capacitor stores power in a roll of electrically charged sheets of material.

When the capacitor is called to action, it is supposed to release its energy and give the fan a sort of electrical kick in the pants. If the capacitor is shot, the fan can't quite get going from just the 120 volts the motor supplies to it. You and your stick just took over the job of the start capacitor.

There are a few things that could have caused your capacitor to blow. The heat of summer plus motor heat could have proven to be too much for the part, or it could be something else.

Below I'll go over how to fix this problem yourself.

Does this sound like what's going on with your A/C?

See results

Quick Overview: How to Replace an A/C Capacitor Yourself

Step
Detail
1. Turn off the power to the unit at the disconnect or breaker panel.
Do not proceed if you do not know how to do this.
2. Find and inspect the capacitor.
Remove the service panel, locate the start capacitor, and check to see if it's mishapen.
3. Discharge the power of the capacitor.
Be very careful in this step — watch the video below for details.
4. Dismount the old capacitor.
It should be simple to unscrew the metal band holding it in.
5. Note down how the wires connect.
Do this before you remove them!
6. Disconnect the wires.
You can remove them with needle-nosed pliers.
7. Choose a replacement.
Know the micro-farads (μF) and the voltage rating, or the make and model of A/C
8. Buy a replacement and attach.
Check your local contractor supply store.
See below for more detailed information and pictures.

1. Start by Turning Off the Power

First of all make sure you know how to turn off power to your air conditioner. Don’t proceed if you do not.

  • Turn off the power to the unit at the disconnect or breaker panel, which should be mounted on the outside of the house within a few feet of the outdoor condensing unit.

The disconnect box for the air conditioner.  The cover opens easily.
The disconnect box for the air conditioner. The cover opens easily. | Source
On this particular disconnect, pulling the handle cuts the power and exposes the fuses.
On this particular disconnect, pulling the handle cuts the power and exposes the fuses. | Source

2. Finding and Inspecting the Capacitor

After you have turned off the power at the disconnect:

  1. Remove the service panel on the A/C unit itself.
  2. Locate the start capacitor. (It's most likely silver, round or oval, and with multiple prongs on the top for wire connections.)
  3. Look at the capacitor surface where the prongs are attached, and ask yourself: does this surface look raised or domed?

One tell-tale sign that a capacitor is shot is its shape. When a capacitor blows, at least 95% of the time its top will be pushed up or swollen, somewhat resembling a pop can that has been dropped and is ready to explode when given the chance. Is this what you see? If so, this is good news, and we'll have you back up and running in no time.

It may not be pretty, but there's my capacitor.
It may not be pretty, but there's my capacitor. | Source

3. Discharging the Power in the Capacitor

You've already shut off power to the air conditioner, but now you will have to discharge the power in the capacitor.

WARNING: As I mentioned, a capacitor stores power. That has not changed because you've shut off the flow of electric current. The capacitor may still have power ready to fire. Touching two of the terminals at the same time with your hand will discharge this power and make for a shocking experience. Throwing away a capacitor that hasn't been discharged could cause a fire in your trash can. Before you continue, discharge your capacitor by placing an insulated-handle screwdriver across the terminals, as shown in the video below.

Video: Discharging a Capacitor

4. Dismounting the Old Capacitor

Now that your old capacitor has been discharged, you can remove it. This is very simple. The capacitor is likely mounted to the unit by a metal band that has only one screw to remove. Remove that screw and the capacitor should come loose from the unit itself.

One screw and it's out.
One screw and it's out. | Source

5. Noting Down How the Wires Connect

Before you remove the wires from the old capacitor, be sure to make a diagram or label showing what wire goes where.

Different colored wires go to different terminals.  This capacitor is good, so the top is flat, but if it were broken the area around the terminals would likely be raised like a shaken pop can.
Different colored wires go to different terminals. This capacitor is good, so the top is flat, but if it were broken the area around the terminals would likely be raised like a shaken pop can. | Source
You can draw a picture showing where the different colored wires will connect to your replacement capacitor.
You can draw a picture showing where the different colored wires will connect to your replacement capacitor.

6. Disconnecting the Old Capacitor

Once you're sure where the wires will connect to the new capacitor, you can remove the wires using a simple pair of needle-nosed pliers. If the wires are tight, try not to just yank on them; use a rocking motion while pulling slowly. This will help keep you from touching another terminal, or possibly having the pliers slip and hit you in the face. Don't laugh, I've watched it happen.

That's it. Now all you need to do is obtain the right replacement part and re-install it just as you removed this one.

7. Choosing a Replacement

There are a couple of things you'll want to know when shopping for your new capacitor: the micro-farads (μF) and the voltage rating. The shape and size of the capacitor aren't really important as they can vary and still do the job. Even your mounting bracket will probably bend to accommodate a part of a different shape. Just know that you have to match the micro-farad number exactly. The voltage rating does not have to be identical, as it shows the amount of voltage the capacitor can see, not what it has to see; this means that if you need to you can use a capacitor with a slightly higher voltage rating than what you have now.

Your μF and voltage will be marked on your capacitor and will likely read something similar to 35/5 μF and 370V. If they are not written down, write down the make and model of your air conditioning unit, and use that information at the store or online to find the correct replacement part.

Lastly, brand is not important here. A capacitor is a pretty universal part, and should be available at your local contractor supply company, though maybe not at a Home Depot or Lowe's.

A capacitor for a residential-sized unit should be relatively cheap, and you may consider buying a second one for backup while you are there, along with a couple of spare time-delay fuses (but be sure to buy the right size fuse). In the heat of the summer, blown capacitors and fuses are a very common cause of air conditioner breakdowns.

Air Conditioning Maintenance Tips

I hope this was the answer to your A/C problem and that you were able to obtain and replace the part without any hang up for your family get-together.

The heat of the summer sun, added to the heat hard-working motors normally generate, can be tough on our air conditioners, because hot electrical components break down more easily. So it's not surprising a part may fail on a hot day when you need it the most.

Keeping up on your A/C maintenance can help prevent these types of breakdowns. Keeping your air conditioner's coils clean and your air filter changed when needed can keep the running temperature of your unit down, thus helping to keep your own temperature down when the summer comes calling.

Thanks for stopping by, and again, I hope this helped you and saved you money.


Comments

    0 of 8192 characters used
    Post Comment

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 3 days ago from Ohio

      Kevin - It could be a lot of things if it's not the capacitor. Check breakers, fuses...if not those perhaps the damage is total to the motor. Could be bad contactor...wish I had more I could say from here. Thanks for reading.

    • profile image

      Kevin 4 days ago

      I changed my capacitor and it still just hums, the sticks won't kick start motor, what's up

    • profile image

      Ryan 3 weeks ago

      To Aedr's problem below. I had the same problem. The AC would start and after 5 mins or so the fan would seize up and stop while the AC was still running. Once it cooled it would work again for 5 mins or so and stop.

      The problem is the motor. The bearings are going bad, heating up, expanding and the heat expansion stops the motor. You can replace the motor yourself. Get the info off the motor and order one online. It was not difficult to replace. The hardest part for me was getting the rusted on fan off the motor. Hope this helps anyone having the same problem. This will save you the cost of the motor plus labor. I think I paid about $180 for the fan motor. Make sure to match the voltage and spin direction. For example, my furnace motor spins the opposite direction as my AC.

    • profile image

      Daniel N 4 weeks ago

      Great article.

      If the blades begin turning with the stick test, but never reach full speed (blades will keep spinning, but only turn as fast as I can initially turn them with the stick) is it a motor going bad, or still possibly a capacitor?

      Again, thank you for the information in the article. Well detailed.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 5 weeks ago from Ohio

      Hlama - Glad I could help. Thank you for reading.

    • profile image

      Hlama 5 weeks ago

      This helped so much! This helped me fix my unit. I thought I was going to have to spent some crazy $$$ to get someone to fix our unit. I love the internet for saving money on repairs!

    • profile image

      Catherine 7 weeks ago

      I'm interested to know how you went with your air con aedr. Was it the fan motor or the capacitor. Mine kick starts with stick but then stops again later and ýou don't realise inside till it starts going hot. Ours is a Mitsubishi msz-GA60VA and when you look in the outdoor unit it has 3 capacitors and they are 560uf. They are soldered in and the rep said they can't be removed and you need to change the powerboard. So did you find a solution in the end?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 3 months ago from Ohio

      aedr - You're welcome and I just see it as trying to pay forward kindnesses I've been paid. It does sound like the capacitor...usually a bad motor won't run at all. This is just my distant opinion...it's hard to say for sure from here but putting in a capacitor would be cheap so if it did fix it, great and if not, you don't stand to lose more than a few dollars.

    • profile image

      aedr 3 months ago

      Hi Daniel. Thanks so much for your service to us all. Just got home after being gone for two weeks. Thermostat was set to AWAY and should not have been running at all while we were gone. Turned on the AC the night we got back and it only blew warm air. Eventually turned it off. Next morning turned it back on and went outside to the compressor and fan. Found that the fan was not turning. But the compressor was running. Stick started the fan. Cold air was blowing inside the house for the time but then went warm again. Went back out to check the fan and ***the fan had stopped without the system ever turning off.*** From what I've read it is either the fan motor or the capacitor. Does the fact that the fan starts with a stick but doesn't continue for more than 15 minutes or so reveal anything diagnostically? I'd like to just order the needed part and replace it ASAP. Luckily the weather is mild this week. Thanks for any advice you can give!

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 3 months ago from Ohio

      Ciprian - If you've replaced the capacitor and it works when you kick it then perhaps there's some bad wiring somewhere. That said, I don't recommend kicking it or you may end up with worse problems.

      Thanks for reading.

    • profile image

      Ciprian 3 months ago

      Hello.

      My outdoor unit's fan won't start unless I kick it. ONLY THEN THE UNIT PUPMS COLD AIR INSIDE THE HOUSE. I have replaced the old capacitor but the problem still persists, the fan won't start unless I kick the unit again.

      Any thoughts?

      Many thanks,

      C

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 5 months ago from Ohio

      travelerone - its always best to use the manufacturer's specified capacitor. Thank you for reading.

    • profile image

      travelerone 5 months ago

      Diagnosed the problem myself, no thanks to the service tech! Fan motor was stopping after a while due to overload. After cooldown it would reset itself. Called tech to get a new fan motor installed ($360). The work to replace was very simple & easy. If ever again the fan motor needs to be replaced, I'll do it myself!

      Outdoor unit now less noisy & just mild vibration. Has been running fine for two weeks.

      Dual capacitor question : original factory installed was 35/5 mf. After several replacements by servicemen, it's now 45/5 mfd. Do you see any negative effect with this?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 6 months ago from Ohio

      Melting in Austin - You have the info you need and just need to find a supplier near you or order online. Just ask for a "440V, 40 slash 7.5 dual capacitor". Thank you.

      Travelerone and cjcrain - There are too many things that could be happening based on your description to list. It sounds like you both need a good technician. Unfortunately, the answers aren't always easy. Thank you for reading as well.

    • profile image

      travelerone 6 months ago

      Service tech replaced the dual capacitor & unit ran for 5 weeks. Again fan wouldn't start, except by using the stick method. Tech "services" cost me $190 of which the dual capacitor part was $120. Part was only waranteed for 30 days! Ordered an OEM capacitor on amazon for $12 & installed it per your detailed instructions. Unit ran OK for several weeks.

      Again am using the stick method to start the fan.

      With 80+ degrees in the house last evening & waiting about 4 hours before trying to restart, the first few pushes of the fan blades only caused the fan (while powered) to move slightly. Had to push very hard & fan quickly came up to speed. System cycled normally for almost 18 hours, then the fan refused to turn. Again will wait a few ours before trying to restart.

      Why is it so hard to move the fan blades when powered but fan moves easily when power is off? Is it likely that the fan motor is going bad?

      How can I confirm? Looks like the OEM fan replacement part costs around $250.

      When thermostat is holding temperature around the set point, my system runs 8 minutes on and 8 minutes off.

    • profile image

      MeltingInAustin 6 months ago

      Dan,

      First, thanks for this, it will save my summer. I had to look at the capacitor, which clewrly is gone, the markings i see are 440 volt (40+7.5) +_ 5% ... can i assume that this is 40/7.5?

      Could you recommend the specs of a replacement... i am confused by the 40+7.5

      Thanks

    • profile image

      cjcrain 6 months ago

      I need help! I've had the AC guy out 3x. When he came out the first time we had turned the a/c unit off for about 24hrs prior his arrival and he said the freon was low he fixed that and then within 24 hrs air stopped coming thru the vents. I turned it off that night because it was running continuously (and running up my electric bill) the next morning i turned it back on it was working fine. When i came home from work again there was no air flow thru the vents. The fan was still going i don't see any ice anywhere. Again i call the repair guy he says turn it off and he will be by in the morning. Well guess what it works when he turned it back on and now it 5 in the evening and its not working again. I don't know what it is and he says nothing is wrong with it. It's 90 degrees in my house and there is nothing wrong with my a/c unit? Please help me!

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 6 months ago from Ohio

      Deena - It's not usually just coincidence that when a board is replaced something is acting funny. Almost certainly something isn't wired right.

      Hitmanch and Justlie - Your issues are too complex to try and diagnose via the net. Yes, your neighbor could potentially shut down your a/c but then why does he come back and turn it back on for you after work? I've heard of neighbors stealing a neighbors fuses before but not daily and then giving them back???

      Thanks all for reading.

    • profile image

      deena edwards 6 months ago

      i bought a new coleman control board for my heat pump in the fan is only running for 3 min

    • profile image

      Just lie 6 months ago

      Why does my ac blow very cool at times and then not? It seems to have a mind of its own also is it possible that my neighbor can disconnect my air compressor with out me knowing? That would explain why the fan still runs but not cold in the house I can't figure this out I don't want to sound like a nut but when I am home it works fine when I leave and return it's hot as hell in my house and the other thing is the thermostat will still say it's 73 and their is no way it is.

    • Hitmanch47 profile image

      Hitmanch47 6 months ago

      Cre8tor thanks for reply. I double checked the connections and even second guessed myself but I am positive all connections to new cap are correct (brown from fan to terminal marked fan on cap, yellow wire from fan to comon on cap, blue wire from comp to herm on cap and yellow wire from contacter power to comon on cap. I also looked up on how to do ohms test on motor and it seems to pass test.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 6 months ago from Ohio

      hitmanch47 - It sounds like the motor is bad. Power may be locking the rotor via a thermal overload or something like that. Assuming you're confident the new cap was wired in proper. Can't say for sure from here but it definitely sounds like there's either a bad motor or wiring issue. Thanks for reading.

    • profile image

      Hitmanch47 6 months ago

      I had this similar problem and every thing pointed to bad capacitor but after I replaced it when ever I turn on power to a/c the fan doesn't turn. As a matter of fact it now is almost impossible to turn with a stick, unlike before. But as soon as power is turned off, the fan is easy to turn by hand again.

      I'm so confused. HELP

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 6 months ago from Ohio

      Thank you Greg. I haven't written in awhile but have been brain storming lately. I appreciate the feedback.

      Jaime - The stick is a diagnostic method, not a repair. You likely need a capacitor.

    • profile image

      Greg 6 months ago

      Wow, This guy (Arthur) is the best I've ever read. Detailed and steps 1,2,3, like as if I was stupid and I love it. Finally, someone to help those who don't understand this stuff. Please keep writing.

    • profile image

      Jamie 6 months ago

      I did what your article entailed, using a ruler the fan started right off however the air coming through the vents is not cold. Could I have two things going on? Please advise, it's hot.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 6 months ago from Ohio

      Faith - I'm glad you're up and running!

      Lou - Those units use the same concepts but the design is quite different. I'm not sure what to advise on this one.

      For those with inconsistent starts, check to make sure the capacitor is the correct size. Don't assume that what's there is correct and replace it with that. Someone before you may have used one a shade different and if you then do the same, you can be way off on the tolerance. Capacitors can show signs of fatigue but usually when they go, they go.

      As for the comment regarding the low voltage...there is a slim chance of popping a fuse on the low voltage since this article gives you no reason to be messing in that area. You'd be quite clumsy to short the 24v while changing out a capacitor BUT, yes, you can take the extra precaution and shut down the furnace power if you're more comfortable with that.

      Thanks everyone for reading!

    • profile image

      Travis 6 months ago

      My fan won't start on its own. It can be kick started and then the AC works fine. I replaced the cap and the problem persists. What are the chances the new cap is crap? Is there any other component that can cause this issue? Fan spins freely and bearings do not grind. Heck the fan looks fairly new. (New Homeowner)

    • profile image

      dwasifar 6 months ago

      One thing not mentioned in this guide that probably should be. Turning off the power to the compressor at the box is not sufficient; you should also turn off the breaker to the furnace. This is because the furnace is the source of the 24v power that runs your thermostat, and wires from the thermostat come into the compressor's wiring area. So unless you turn off the furnace power too, that 24v line is still hot. It's not enough to shock you badly, but if you accidentally short it, say by bumping it with the screwdriver or the capacitor body, you'll pop a fuse (at the very least) in the furnace, and now you've got another repair to do. Voice of experience here. :)

    • profile image

      travelerone 7 months ago

      After moving the outdoor unit's fan blades just once, my AC ran normally for about 10 days. Just now I had to move the blades again to get the unit to start. Is there a possibility that the capacitor is failing very slowly?

    • profile image

      Faith 7 months ago

      I wrote a couple of weeks ago about my a/c not shutting off after attaining desired temp. I finally was able to pry the back of the duct work to get to the inside coils (there was no direct access-ugh) and cleaned it. Still ran and ran. So, I figured maybe the exterior coils were dirty. Sure enough after I took out the fan and cleaned the inside of the outside (hope that makes sense) coils and oiled the fan motor we are up and running. Yay! Thanks for your help.

    • profile image

      LouKingman 7 months ago

      I have a basic electronics background but in a floor standing Amcor portable AC I don't know exactly where to look for this thing. And what does it look like? Is it a barrel shaped electrolytic? Maybe something else?

      Any help would be greatly appreciated.

      Thanks!

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 7 months ago from Ohio

      Ernest - Make sure the fuses are the correct amperage as noted on the unit. Perhaps they are to low of amp rating. If correct, then perhaps the unit is drawing too many amps which is a very good sign that it's getting ready to quit...likely from the compressor. Or, a long shot is that you're breaker is allowing to many amps through or is sized incorrectly but again, that's a long shot. Thanks for reading and commenting. A good question!

    • profile image

      Ernest 7 months ago

      My eA fuse keeps blowing. Any idea why? I just replaced the contactor thinking that was the problem but it's still doing the same thing every time I turn the thermometer to cool.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 7 months ago from Ohio

      David - I don't think a contactor would have anything to do with the unit freezing up. Dirty filter? Line restriction/bad txv? Loss of refrigerant? All but the filter requires a tech. Thank you for reading.

    • profile image

      David 7 months ago

      So my unit has been acting up and it wouldn't shut off. So it froze up but after it was thawed out it still wouldn't stop. I changed out the thermostat but that didn't help. I would hear humming inside the unit when I turned off all the power to the house because I couldn't figure out if it was hooked up differently. It was still humming. Now the unit has stopped starting. I will try your fan trick and see if this could be the capacitor. Would you think this could be the contactor at all? Since it went from not stopping to now not starting within a few days.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 7 months ago from Ohio

      I want to start by thanking everyone again for reading. The comments have become hard to keep up with individually though. I would like to make a couple general statements to cover some of the repetitive questions I receive.

      First are those who use capacitors that don't match the ratings of what is supposed to be there...as I mention in the article, I wouldn't do this and yes, it can cause problems if you do.

      Second if you've changed the capacitor, there is only so much more you can do without training and equipment. Check that you have power...a breaker hasn't tripped or fuse blown in the disconnect. Check that your filter is clean and if you can, that your coil is clean. Beyond that, I do not want to put your in harms way or have you break laws by working without an EPA license.

      Lastly...I'm not there running the tests. I do my best to answer here without being on the job but that's not easy since there are often times readings and measurements that need to be taken to determine the source of failures. If you've done the things mentioned above, it's time to call someone. Let them fix it properly. If they say, "The problem is .... this..." then that should fix the problem. There are cases where one problem can cause another or the repair of one problem reveals another so give your guy a little slack if something else happens to need replaced or that they should maybe even have to come back a 2nd time. After that, you should be very leery of whether or not your tech knows what he's doing and you shouldn't be paying anymore.

      Thanks again all!

    • profile image

      Skelly 7 months ago

      Would an underpowered capacitor make the fan not spin? I replaced my capacitor with a 35/3/370 and when I removed the old one, I noticed it was a 50/3/370. I tried to restart the AC and the fan was not spinning and I go the feeling the motor wasn't liking it, so I pulled the power again. Thoughts?

    • profile image

      Jason Ganoe 7 months ago

      Woke up to hot house this in North Carolina. Heard the humming noise on the compressor. Came in, googled it, got to this site and EVERYTHING you said was true. 37.00 later it was running smooth. Thank you!!!!

    • profile image

      Val 7 months ago

      It is a very good article for people with A/C problems who like to save money. A capacitor changing procedure served very well - nothing more and nothing less.

      I currently have a problem identical to what Elizabeth L described 10 days ago. The same thing - my 8 years all outside unit takes vacation every day around noon and coming alive between 8 and 10 PM. The thermostat was replaces this morning but it did not help. If fan switch set in "On" mode from "Auto" nothing coming out of vents until late evening.

      Elizabeth if you see my post please let us know if your problem resolved?

      Thank you all, Val

    • profile image

      Mary 7 months ago

      The AC unit outside stopped working and turned out that the compressor needed to be replaced. It is a 24 year old unit so the warranty company on the house covered that. June was the last time it cooled down to 68 degrees even when the heat index was high. After the compressor replacement it still wasn't cooling and a about 2 days ago again same company came out and turns out it had to much Freon. Yet the house will not cool down below 78 at night and 74 during the morning. This is with ceiling fan in every bedroom and living room. My bedroom since it is upstairs I run the ceiling fan, two floor fans and a desk fan just to be able to sleep. Any ideas what they might be missing?

      The AC capacitor was replaced in 2012 along with the Condensate Line cleaned out that same year.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 7 months ago from Ohio

      Tim - No. A blown capacitor would not affect the thermostat.

      Shakil - Thank you!

      Rod - That's a female spade connector and should be available for about $.10 at a local hardware store. Yes, you can put it back on the end of the wire.

    • profile image

      Tim 7 months ago

      If the capacitor is going bad can it cause a thermostat to go bad? Yesterday morning I woke up to a warm house. The attic unit was blowing fine but the outside unit wasn't kicking on. I had the exact same thing happen in April and Nest told me it was a bad thermostat. Same thing yesterday. Can this cause the thermostat to stop sendin

    • profile image

      travelerone 7 months ago

      Very good, detailed article. Thanks Dan.

      Please give me your opinions :

      AC is 10 years old. Dual capacitor (35/5 microfarads) was replaced 6 weeks ago by service tech.

      With inside house temperature at 85 degrees, I recently had to use a stick to move the fan blades in order for the unit to start. Cooled house down to 75 degrees setting, running about two hours. For last couple of days it is operating normally. Have ordered a new dual capacitor to install myself.

      Question is can the dual capacitor be slowly failing?

      Also, what is the purpose of the other capacitor (189-227 micro farads)? Is it for the compressor motor whereas the dual is for the fan?Is it much less likely to fail?

      Do you agree with service tech's comment that as the unit gets older, hard start module and capacitors with fail more frequently?

    • profile image

      Mike 7 months ago

      I replaced the capacitor b/c the compressor had a loud whine but fan wouldn't move. used a stick and got it moving manually. Brought old capacitor to parts store and they got me a new one which i installed after correctly marking wires. Now it ran for a hour, but then it stopped and outside compressor stopped working. What should i do next?

    • profile image

      Shakil Ahmed 7 months ago

      very knowledgeable article. I have a similar humming noice and went out sice to check the fan. the fan was running well and then i change the filter which was so dirty. after that no problem, no noise. Now peace of mind and will sleep good to- night. any way tomorrow is Sunday. Thank you all and thank you writer.

    • profile image

      Rod 7 months ago

      I was changing the capacitor on my ac unit and the part that goes in the end of the cable that connects to the capacitor broke off. Can I get that part to put in the end of the cable or do I need to replace the whole cable? What is this part called or where can I find it?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 7 months ago from Ohio

      Valerie and Maura - Thank you for the feedback!

      Elizabeth - I don't think you're off base. When things break, they break and are usually easier to track but when things are acting erratically, a circuit board is often the issue....sending signals to wrong places or no place at all and various issues at various times. Can't guarantee it of course but sounds probable. Thanks for reading.

      NOTE TO READERS: I will not post comments where a specific company's name is being called out.

    • profile image

      Valerie 7 months ago

      WOW...What an amazing, useful tutorial! Just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to help so many people by sharing your knowledge.

    • profile image

      Maura McC 7 months ago

      The house was cool but the unit wasn't shutting off. When I went outside the fan wasn't working, it did hum but the stick trick didn't work. Brother-in-law just had a capacitor replaced at a cost of $160 and suggested I look on the internet....T H A N K Y O U ! ! ! I talked my husband into trying the repair. We called an HVAC company first...they wanted $150 to diagnose the problem and up to $150 more ir it was a capacitor issue. Anyway, the replacement part was $10 and the AC is working beautifully. My husband even thanked me for pushing him to try....this just amazed us both.

    • profile image

      Elizabeth L 7 months ago

      Thank you so much for your article!

      My AC has been acting up off and on for about a month. What I've been able to summarize thus far is that during the late afternoon hours, everything seizes up and stops working. No fan, no compressor, nothing. If I turn the thermostat to OFF and back to COOL, it will make a "Click" noise as it's trying to engage it on. But nothing happens.

      If I just turn the fan to ON, to deduce if it's just iced over or not. The fan will only run for about a minute or 2 before kicking off and completely seizing.

      I had the thermostat replaced. But, I'm almost leaning towards it being a fan control circuit board issue that is malfunctioning on thermal overload and not working. Could this be it or am I completely off base?

      (I work in electronics repairs, so I like to try to figure out things that are going wrong. I am still calling an AC technician out, but I'm curious as to know what you would think the possibility could be. For location purposes: I live in Houston, TX)

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 7 months ago from Ohio

      Faith - Did this start when you replaced the stat? It sounds like something is wired wrong or shorting against another wire is the low voltage circuit either between the stat and the furnace or the furnace and the a/c. On another note, you shouldn't EVER have to refill your a/c. This is largely believed and completely wrong unless you have a leak and if there is a leak, it is to be fixed before refilling. R22 is being phased out and is VERY costly. I would not spend any more money "refilling" or repairing that unit if the costs are such as a leak and refill. Best to start considering a new 410a system. Thanks for reading and commenting! I hope this helps.

    • profile image

      Faith 7 months ago

      My a/c will not shut off when hitting the desired temperature. I have had the R22 refilled (1.2 lbs), we have completely cleaned the evaporator coils inside and out, the motor has been cleaned and a new wall thermostat has been installed. I've run out of possible solutions. Any ideas?

    • profile image

      Martin 7 months ago

      Thanks so much for this article. I was able to manually start the fan and cool our house after being away during a really hot day. I called a local HVAC repair company and they had the capacitor in stock so in less than a day I had the problem fixed for about $30.

      Some good advice would be to either keep your system running or turn it off completely. You don't want your ac to try starting again a little later. If it runs the compressor without the fan for too long it might break something much more expensive.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 7 months ago from Ohio

      Jay - (and many others who've asked the same question) The "stick trick" is just a diagnosis tool so to speak. It does not fix the problem. Only tells you that more than likely your capacitor is bad and needs replaced. The capacitor runs the fan and compressor in most cases so though the fan takes off, the compressor will often not and thus why you still have warm air in the house. Thank you for reading!

    • profile image

      Jay 7 months ago

      Great article! IF I kick start the fan using a stick, should the A/C unit start cooling the house as normal? I was able to get the A/C going, but the A/C unit did not provide cool air. After a few minutes the fan stopped again. Is this normal for blown capacitors or do I have another problem?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 8 months ago from Ohio

      Paul Otnes - Thanks for reading and taking the time to comment. Glad your staying cool.

    • profile image

      Paul Otnes 8 months ago

      Thanks Daniel! You saved me both time and money when my capacitor failed a few days ago and just in time for a heat streak in my area.

      It took all of 1o minutes to diagnose, then maybe another 10 to throw the breakers, pull the fuse and discharge the cap in order to remove it. The cap was heavily bulged and wouldn't even hold a charge (tested with meter before pulling).

      After getting the $15.00 replacement it only took another 10 minutes to install it and button things up. Now we have nice cool air again! Now I'm going to check out your coil cleaning instructions...

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 8 months ago from Ohio

      Thanks to those giving thanks! You are why I do this.

      Theresa Prior - This is a good opportunity for people to learn. Heat is the worst thing for electrical components and if you have an R22 unit with any major issues. Now is the time to replace it. R22 costs are rising out of this atmosphere....no pun intended.

      It sounds like your compressor is tripping on thermal overload since you say its clean and that it runs when it's cooler outside. Either your compressor is working to hard and dying or the fan isn't moving enough air so it may be on it's way out. It may be just fine when these temperatures drop but if it's becoming too much to bare and you do in fact have a compressor issue, I would replace it. A fan, I'd replace but a compressor, you'll have so much money in that and then future repairs because of R22 that you'd be throwing good money after bad.

      Roman - I sell geothermal but do not pretend to be at all tech savvy about them. I'm sorry.

      Jaece - I always recommend going with the right capacitor. The -/+ means for example MFD 40 can handle a tolerance or difference of -/+ 5%. 45 is more than 5% increase. That said, many a techs would argue this and you may have a bad cap but likely, you have a different problem.

      Whitger - Yes it could still be bad and in the units I deal with, yes, the cap would still be covered but some units may only be a 1 year on that type of part. It's not uncommon. Luckily, if it's not. It's cheap. Call the distributor of that brand, give them the serial number off the unit....they can tell you if you don't still have your warranty papers.

      Scott - You could have a lot of things going on. There's not enough info for me to be very helpful. Read these comments and see other things you might try.

      Ranga - If it's satisfying the thermostat, it's working. It may just simply not feel it since it is soo hot. The other scenario is that your unit is too big. An air conditioner that is too big for a house doesn't actually do a good job cooling be it "short cycles".

      Thanks all for reading!

    • profile image

      Cre8tor 8 months ago

      Theresa Prior - You said it. It's been a scorcher. One of the worst things in the world electrical components is heat and as a result, many safety features being added to our units to prevent dangerous incidents...such as a fire from overheating. Though these features can be annoying in these conditions, they are there to prevent worse. I believe based on what you've stated that your compressor is "tripping" it's overload since it runs fine when the temps drop. The continuous fan is likely a safety default to help dissipate that heat. I could be wrong but before spending large amounts of money, I'd test that theory and see what happens when we return to more reasonable temperatures...if you can bare it. If this is what it is, there is nothing wrong with the unit or, perhaps your fan is dying and not moving enough air to keep the compressor cool. You did say you cleaned it so I'm assuming airflow isn't the issue. That said, it is always possible the compressor is dying and thus overheating in this weather and it may be better to buy a new unit than replace the compressor. Especially if your unit now is run on R22. Thanks for reading and commenting.

    • Theresa Prior profile image

      Theresa Prior 8 months ago

      67 yr old woman with a/c problem We are in a 3 week heat wave, temps over 90f every day.. My south facing unit stops cooling every day around noon but comes back on in the evening around 7pm. The units fan does not stop running. Can not find any frost or ice build up. The outside of unit is lightly sprayed in the spring to remove dust and particles. This is done on a cold unit not running.

      Gas level was checked and is fine. Unit is 1 1/2 ton, small bungalow 1100 sq ft.

      HVAC tech recommends a new condenser or a new unit..

      Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

    • profile image

      Tamara Garrison 8 months ago

      I just replaced my capacitor and my a/c is working again. I am a female do it yourselfer and your site was a great help. thanks

    • profile image

      Jaece 8 months ago

      I followed all steps for checking capacitor problems. Starting with lines to make sure they were not plugged, checked filter etc.. My A/C unit when turned on will only put out very little air and doesn't even feel cool. I checked the overflow lines for clogging, I checked the filter. When I went outside the I found the fan was not running. I did the stick test and blade spun freely but would not kick on. Took side cover off and noticed capacitor was bulging like all pictures I've been seeing of what the bad ones look like. So I took capacitor to Heating & Cooling place who installed the system and tech said it was indeed shot. Bought new capacitor and installed following all steps as explained. Turned unit on and everything was running except the fan. Tried stick test again. Same result. Fan blade spin freely but not kick on. The unit was humming like it normally would but also noticed it was getting very warm. I turned everything off and now I'm here! Also when tech gave me new capacitor the numbers were slightly off. I read they must be EXACT. I asked him this he said that this capacitor will work. The original capacitor was a GE brand part #97F9856 with ratings of 40uf 5uf, 440vac,+6% -6%, 50/60Hz. New capacitor brand is Titan Pro part #TRCFD455 with ratings of 45+5, 440/370vac, +-5%. what I've read do I have a fan motor problem? Or did the professional give me the wrong capacitor? Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions. Also it is truly amazing and great that you continue to update this thread over all this time. Truly A+ service. Thank you.

    • profile image

      Scott 8 months ago

      The air unit is not keeping up with the heat. Set at 77 and only cools to 80. I changed out the motor on the condenser because it stopped working and I want to change the capacitor but when I mimic the old wiring to the new one, it will not kick on. Same specs on capacitors. confused during heat wave. Thanks!!!

    • profile image

      Whitiger 8 months ago

      My heat pump stopped working. Its only about 18 mos old. Air handler works. Compressor and fan wont come on. Run cap visually looks great no bulges. Canit still be bad? Should this be covered under warranty? Cant find my papaerwork,

    • profile image

      Ranga 8 months ago

      I have an aircon that started cooling les and less last couple of weeks and today just stopped cooling. External unit fan working. Thermostat works as set. Could it be aleak of coolant gas? Any guidance ?

      Appreciate all the help you provide on this thread.

    • profile image

      Dana 8 months ago

      THANK YOU ! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!

      You saved me a bunch of money! I followed every step of your instructions and it works!

      Thanks again! You are awesome!

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 8 months ago from Ohio

      Frank - There is a chance the new cap went bad again, low, but a chance. As I've mentioned to others, if it keeps blowing the cap, there is another problem. Technicians should work to not only get the unit running again but try as much as they can to diagnose an underlying issue. If I walk up to a unit and see a cap is bad and it's older, home owner hasn't had it done in a while, I replace the cap and know it was just the cap. If the unit is newer, I'm gonna take a little extra time to check voltages and such to see if there is something that caused it. Not to say your tech really did anything wrong because keep in mind, they have a boss to answer to as well and they want them on the next call. It wouldn't be uncommon for a tech to just fix what he sees and then get a call back. Key here is that the company shouldn't just come out and install a new cap. They should definitely be looking for something more on the 2nd trip for the same issue. That would be proper service. Thanks for reading!

    • profile image

      Roman Nenadic 8 months ago

      have a climate master tranquility 16 earth pure r410a system, compressor is not engaging anymore. replaced the capacitor and noticed that after I take it off power now there is nothing In the capacitor to discharge. Before 2-3 ago compressor would start but cut out short time later, then attempted 2-3 more starts and now it doesn't engage at all, I can hear switch relay clicking on...any help on this, does replacing new capacitor takes some time to charge?

    • profile image

      Frank 8 months ago

      Have 4 year old Carrier...not cooling air for few days...repairman replaced capictor said causing condenser not to work...ran for 3 hours after fix...now fan not spinning....noticed no water draining during three hours it was running and not real cool inside which I thought odd.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 8 months ago from Ohio

      Shaun - Thank you for the recognition. I wish I was faster getting back to everyone but life has been coming at me fast. It's tough not being there and knowing which fan some are talking about but I assume you mean the outdoor fan is blowing warm air....and it should. Is the temp in the house still dropping? I mean, A/C is cooling inside or is that blowing hot air??? I'm thinking you may have a dirty or "on the fritz" contactor. If you here that clicking, buzzing, intermittently...it can get dirty and then the little magnet inside isn't strong enough to keep it making contact like it should. Contactors are relatively cheap so you may just replace it as opposed to trying to clean it up good. BE CAREFUL and be sure you've killed the power. Thanks again Shaun!!!

      Jon, You may be low on refrigerant which would indicate that you've somehow gotten a leak or that a very tiny leak has been there but has finally reached a point where the pressure is too low to cool. I can't say for sure but it does sound like an issue that you may need to call someone out for.

      Nick, The board may be bad. Low voltage could cause things to burn up just as bad as higher. Anytime a specific part keeps going bad, it means there is an underlying problem that is causing it. I here these issues a lot. A motor goes bad so they replace the motor....goes again and they do it again....and again....and then blame the motor company. The customer ends up angry, contractor needs to find the "why" if something happens more than once on major components because they don't just go bad that often without reason.

      Lacrosse - It may have and it sounds like somewhere you have a short so be sure they check the wiring to and from the contactor.

      Gggarcia - It sounds like there is a thermal overload tripping in the fan or compressor for some reason and when you kill the power, it's causing it to reset. There are a few reasons this could happen so you may need someone to come out and take a look at it.

      Thanks ALL OF YOU for reading!

    • profile image

      Nick 8 months ago

      I was reading and seem to have a similar issue but with the motor and capacitor in the attic for the blower. i bought a new blower motor and a new capacitor twice since i returned the first one thinking it was damaged. since it is not the motor nor capacitor due to they being tested out what else can cause this issue? when i turn it by hand it starts up . one thing i notice is that on the control board that there is 109 volts on the cool terminal yet at the switch there is 124 volts. is 109 volts to low to turn on the blower motor ?

    • profile image

      lacrossecutie19@gmail.com 8 months ago

      Thank you for helping so many of us with your information. We changed the capacitor 4 days ago and the unit started working, yesterday we heard the humming noise and stopped again. We checked the unit and found a wire to the 2 pole magnetic contacts were burned. I wondering if this damage the magnetic contactor. I appreciate your help. I am in florida and it is 87 degrees inside the house now :(

    • profile image

      Wan 8 months ago

      Weatherking unit at 17 yrs old. Condenser fan wasn't coming on when unit start, replaced fan motor and it came with cap for just the fan itself, installed and still have to help fan along to work. Replaced contactor and still the same. Any thoughts on this?

    • profile image

      Jon 8 months ago

      Great article. It's awesome you've kept up with this and we all appreciate it. My AC unit went out the other day. Cleaned the condenser and filter. Fan works and everything kicks on as usual but air is room temp not cold. Pipe going from condenser into house isn't cold like usual as well. Any thoughts? Thanks!!

    • profile image

      Shaun 8 months ago

      Amazing that this article is still being used and Even more amazing that the cre8tor is still responsive. Respect.

      So I have a similar issue. A/C unit hums or buzzes and blower turns on, but just blows warm air. The fan also moves no problem when unit turns on. I can tell the units not fully functioning as every few seconds it buzzes again and draws power, even dimming the lights some, but whatever it's trying to start up, is not kicking over. Any suggestions? Thanks. Shaun from SWFL. (Feels like temp was 115 yesterday

    • profile image

      Gggarcia 8 months ago

      Our capacitor was replaced like a week ago and now the fan is not starting unless the system is turned off then back on... I know the prof. That replaced it last time said it was a different size but it wouldn't matter ... Could it be possible we got a dud ??

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 9 months ago from Ohio

      Ron - Thank you for the feedback!

      Todd - It does sound that way. There are some electrical situations that could fool us into thinking that so you may want to have that checked out before putting in a motor but it's likely the issue.

      Evonn - Your problem sounds as if it's at the furnace and that perhaps that blower has quit. Check to see if you have power there or maybe tripped a breaker...there should be a blinking light in the furnace if it's modern that you'll want to look at too. It will give a code that can help narrow down the problem.

      Thank you all for reading!

    • profile image

      Evonn 9 months ago

      Our air conditioner seemed to be producing marginally cool air for a couple of weeks. Then yesterday it quit drawing air in through the intake vents and blowing cool air throughout the house vents, despite the a/c unit (outside) fan running.

    • profile image

      Todd 9 months ago

      So, most of these symptoms are there. Replaced startup and run capacitors. Now the compressor starts, but my condenser fan wont turn. Spins freely until power hits it. Then locks up hard. Resists turning at all and hum gets real loud when I try. Bad motor?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 9 months ago from Ohio

      Shane - It sounds like your contactor is bad. (the coil inside) Or, there is an issue with the 24v coming from the furnace. Check that before replacing any parts. There should be 24v coming from the furnace in the low voltage wiring. If you have that, then it's more likely the contactor. No guarantees since I can't be there but this is what I'd be checking. Thanks for reading.

    • profile image

      Ron 9 months ago

      Thank you. Every thing you wrote was identical to my situation. Including the successful completion of the problem. I purchased my capacitor at the local Granger store for $25.00.

    • profile image

      Shane 9 months ago

      Loved the article and video. Mine isn't humming. Pushed in relay contactor and unit fires up. Release it and it shuts off. Suggestion

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 9 months ago from Ohio

      HistoryOOOO - You may have a bad motor. Is the compressor running? Does the motor feel hot? (Careful. A locked rotor can make a motor VERY hot.) Might be time to have someone look at it. Probably need to run some electrical tests.

    • profile image

      History0000 9 months ago

      Replaced the capacitor.

      Replaced the fuses.

      Still a hum but fan won't start?

      Any suggestions?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 9 months ago from Ohio

      Amira620 - I'm sorry I didn't catch your question. Yes, it's possible that would be the issue though because your capacitor exploded, that substance could've gotten into or ruined other things. I initially would see if the contactor has been jeopardized or that any wiring has been ruined by this. As you mentioned, I am not a fan of using other capacitors than what the unit is rated for. There is a certain amount of "tolerance" associated with capacitors but since most are rather common, I would just get the proper one. Since it is cheap, I would recommend your doing so.

      To a couple of other comments, a capacitor doesn't HAVE to be popped up to be bad, it's just a sign that one is likely bad if it is. Also, if the fan spins for you but the compressor doesn't work still, remember, your probably using a "dual capacitor" so if it's shot, you may not get the compressor to run in some cases and will have to buy the capacitor whether the fan is turning or not. Again, the "stick" trick is more of a diagnostic than a fix. Thanks all for reading.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 9 months ago from Ohio

      First, thank you to those who've left feedback on how this helped get them running. You are the reason I wrote this. For some others, I apologize if this comes off wrong but by some of the questions I get, I know you didn't READ the article. I don't mind offering help but if you looked to see if the COMPRESSOR was bulging, please reread this or perhaps, you're not mechanically inclined enough to be trying to do this yourself. That isn't an insult. HVAC is NOT a simple field of work nor is it safe for you to be doing if you're not confident in yourself to do so. To those who aren't getting any noise or action, check the main breaker as suggested. If all these things are in the right place and you're still not getting results, please, call a technician. To those who have gotten a strong odor, this is usually electrical and if it's in the house, the problem is with the furnace. There is no way for the outdoor unit to put smells into the home. To those who've just bought something and are having issues, please, return it to the store before long so they can give you back your money or a new unit. New units, particularly wall and window units should be "plug and play". There should be no reason to have to repair it or spend too much time in learning to use it. Again, these aren't insults or venomous words, just wanting to help you not get burned on a new unit or hurt yourself and for some, yes, make you read the article rather than just the bullet points for your own safety. Thank you ALL however for visiting.

    • profile image

      joe 9 months ago

      Hi. I just bought a wall unit and turned it to "low fan" setting. Within I think a few seconds after it started, I could hear it slowing down, which it continued to do until it came to stop, which only took like 2 minutes. I am charging my cell phone so I can video record it when I turn it to "high fan" setting. I turned to "high fan" setting just for a second to see if it would come on and it did. Can you tell me what types of things could be the problem here? Thank you.

    • profile image

      Brian R. 9 months ago

      Like many other folks, this tutorial really helped me as well. Our AC unit had the characteristic loud hum but no spinning of fan blades. The only difference for us was that the capacitor had no distinguishable bulging or bloating at all. Replaced it within less than 3 minutes and the AC is back up and running. Thanks a ton!

    • profile image

      Jon Schneider 9 months ago

      This was a great article. It helped me successfully repair my home air conditioner without needing to spend hundreds of dollars on a professional repair. Thank you! :-)

    • profile image

      michael 9 months ago

      Thank you so much! This was exactly what was wrong and was an easy fix. Can't thank you enough.

    • profile image

      Simon 10 months ago

      Hello Cre8tor, thanks for the article and the photos are very helpful.

      Yesterday my AC was working for an hour or so, and then suddenly no cold air. I found the fan was not spinning, and I was able to make the fan spin with a stick. But with the spinning fan, the air is not cold (the air was cold for that one hour yesterday). So my question is, should the air be cold if it is just the capacitor problem? I am worried that even if I replace the capacitor myself, I will still have to find a technician to figure out what the problem is. I'm trying to decide if I should just go find a technician at the point. Thanks in advance.

    • profile image

      Martin G 10 months ago

      Your article was spot on for the problem we had that started on Thursday (before Memorial Day weekend). The main indicator you mentioned: "Loud hum, but the fan is not spinning). When I checked the fan, it was very hot (it was on for a long time before we realized that the unit was blowing hot air).

      I was able to take a picture of my old capacitor (a Packard PRCD355) and look it up. I was able to find one on Amazon, but I couldn't wait 2 to 4 days for it to ship so I searched the Grainger.com site and asked their operator (using their Chat window that popped up) if they had it. They had a comparable one for $21.82 (item # 2MEE9) and picked it up locally.

      When I was getting ready to remove the old one, the hardent part for me was getting the courage to hold the screwdriver and discharege the electricity stored in the old one. The top of the old capacitor was rusted so I could not see the lettering for the Common, Fan, etc... but was able to determine where the wires (and their colors) connected to since each connector (like in your screenshot) had a different number of prongs. Once I wrote that down, I carefully transferred each wire from the old one to the new one (one at a time). Sure enough, once I did that and turned on the power, the fan started spinning; there was no more hum and cold air is coming out again. You saved me probably $300 to $400.

    • profile image

      Amira620 10 months ago

      Hi Creator,

      Thanks for the post and really great article. I have an issue with our air conditioner. We had a capacitor blown (yes top blown off with oily substance all over the inside) My dad replaced it with a capacitor that had a slightly higher microfarad rating 35 vs 30. Your article advises against this. As my system still doesn't work, I am wondering if that coul be the issues. Can you explain why please?

      Regards,

      Amira

    • profile image

      tina 10 months ago

      My fan on my outside unit is running but the compressor kicks on and off. Sometimes it makes a loud hissing noise. Sometimes my outside unit kicks off for a few seconds and kicks back on. The unit is only 5 1/2 years old. It messes up during the day but works great at night. It doesn't freeze up on the outside or inside. My filters are new and not dirty. The A coil isn't dirty or clogged. The outside unit (can't remember what it's called) isn't clogged up or even dirty. The high pressure side gets up over 600 psi. What is the problem?

    • profile image

      Cindy 10 months ago

      The first time the central air kicked on this morning, it filled the house with a really strong smell. It cooled to the temperature it was set at, then it just quit and didn't come back on when the temperature inside started to rise, so I just shut it off. Any ideas? Left messages with HVAC; no response yet. Thanks

    • profile image

      Frank 10 months ago

      today... my account unit decided to stop.

      I have no Humm from the capacitor and the fan doesn't spin. no noise at all comes from the unit. Already replaced fuses since that has happened before. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 10 months ago from Ohio

      I'm sorry I've been away for a bit. First, KimG, thank you for your comment and story. I got a good kick out of that and am glad I could help. For those who are getting "dead air", if the outdoor unit is running then the best thing to do is check the filter and make sure it's not dirty. After that, there isn't much a homeowner can get into without special tooling that isn't likely worth the investment to maintain your own systems. For those who had smoking, call a service company. Nothing that smokes is likely fixable without these same tools and experience. I will be keeping closer watch here so keep the comments coming. Thanks for reading.

    • profile image

      molly 10 months ago

      I get a loud buzzing that last for 4 seconds with lights dimming every minute and a half. Air is blowing but doesn't feel hot and certainly isnt cold. Please help. Wstinghouse wak087y7v1

    • profile image

      KimG 10 months ago

      I never leave reviews, but I seriously cannot thank you enough for this information!!!

      Your pictures are so useful and you helped me fix the problem!!!

      First time running the air this season, and the unit fan stopped spinning :-(

      With your process of elimination, the fix was simple: a critter got fried by the wires on that can lookin thing! Just sweeped that fella out (I assume it got stuck over the winter..), checked all the wires (make sure that lil guy/gal didn't do any damage pre-fry), and back up and running!!

      I had to let you know I appreciate your article, and your information! It is really hot in Iowa today ;-)

      THANK YOU!!!!

    • profile image

      Eric 10 months ago

      I think my issue is likely the capacitor, compressor humming, fan not turning. But when I try the stick experiment, the fan tries to spin but never really gets going and stops. Seem to spin freely though. Still worth replacing the capacitor, or might it be something else?

    • profile image

      Angelah 10 months ago

      I replaced the AC capacitor in my outside unit with the exact same type that was in it previously. When I turned on the AC unit it started smoking. The original problem was the compressor could be heard running but the fan was not turning. You can spin it with a stick but it will still not come on, so I replaced the capacitor first hoping that was the issue. I hooked it up exactly how it was on the old one. What would make it start smoking when the capacitor is new?

    • profile image

      Unicorn 10 months ago

      We turn the AC on and it cools for just a few minutes. Seems like it then just blows dead air, not cold or hot. Fan is spinning motor is running. Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated.

    • profile image

      Eddie 11 months ago

      I have an old through the wall unit and the fan runs fine but the compressor tries to kick on but shuts off immediately and goes back to fan mode and keeps trying to kick the compressor on but it won't stay on.

    • profile image

      toadboy65 20 months ago

      Here is my issue- The a/c started blowing warm air. I has already cleaned the indoor filter, and last year got a new outdoor capacitor. The outdoor fan was running fine, but the compressor was hot but not running. I turned everything off, checked all the terminals and connections that I could find, then turned everything back on. Maybe ten minutes in, the outdoor compressor came on and I started getting cold air. I suspect having it off for an hour or so did the trick. Is the hot compressor symptomatic of a refrigerant problem?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 20 months ago from Ohio

      nja16 - There is also a capacitor on the blower motor in the furnace itself and if it's bad, could very likely be your problem. The same rules would apply to that as you've read here in this hub as far as safety and replacement. It is even cheaper than that of the outdoor unit so is worth giving a shot. As for the dimming, it's not all that uncommon for lights to dim when the outdoor unit kicks on with a high amp draw. Not to say that's "great" but again, not uncommon. Particularly in older units/homes. Thank you for reading and sorry for the delayed response.

    • profile image

      nja16 20 months ago

      My unit has quit blowing cold air but the outside fan is working. I checked the lines and they are not iced up. While I was in the basement I heard a short click as if the unit was trying to start bu nothing happened. It would make this click every 45-60 seconds and I also noticed the lights in the basement would dim when the click noise occurred. Would this be an electrical issue?

    • nutritionhints profile image

      ahmed beshry 20 months ago

      Thanks for this useful information

    • coupecheveuxhomme profile image

      coupecheveuxhomme 20 months ago

      very nice

    • profile image

      Robert Warner 20 months ago

      Hey Cre8tor, So I had a similar problem, the ac fan wouldn't spin but I would hear a loud buzzing noise. I tried the stick test and the fan blade started spinning. I replaced the capacitor turned it on the fan didn't spin. I pushed the blades one more time and it started spinning again. I let it go for about 10 minutes. Turned it off, waited for another 10 minutes and turned the AC back on. The fan started spinning again but for only about 15 minutes before winding down. The AC unit does have a Heat Pump but it was 86 degrees and the ac unit is in the direct sunlight. Could this still be the heat pump not wanting to over work its self? or do I need a new motor?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 20 months ago from Ohio

      Todd- yes things could run for a few seconds before the short happens. I don't know where your short is but different parts can receive power at different times.

    • profile image

      Todd 20 months ago

      Thanks - I guess that's to be expected with something this old. (Would it run for a minute if it was shorted, though?)

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 20 months ago from Ohio

      Andrew fox - thank you for the feedback and very glad I could help.

      Todd- it sounds like there is a short in the compressor. By its age, it's possible a seal has split and allowed water in somewhere or something has shorted. Carefully weigh the cost of compressor replacement vs unit/system replacement if it comes to this. If I'm correct, it's not a "do it yourself" project.

    • profile image

      Todd 20 months ago

      Some more information, if it matters or helps: It is a single capacitor for fan and compressor. The inside furnace runs and blows air (just not cool, of course). I do not hear a hum from the compressor unit when its circuit breaker is tripped (off) and the inside thermostat is (presumably) calling for cooling.

    • profile image

      Todd 20 months ago

      My outside compressor unit is throwing the circuit breaker. No work or changes have been done on the unit (or the inside furnace/blower unit or the thermostat) in years, and all was working well til now. I reset the outside circuit breaker, and the fan on the compressor unit spins right up, but the circuit trips again after a minute or so. The capacitor looks good, and since the fan spins right up when I reset the circuit breaker, I'm assuming it's not the capacitor. I don't hear humming or buzzing or clicking when the unit is on. The cooling fins around the unit are clean and clear. Air blows the right way (up and out). The only thing I know is that my inside air filter on the furnace is probably very dirty, but I can't imagine that causing the outside compressor circuit to trip. Thoughts? The unit is probably 18 or 20 years old.

    • profile image

      andrew fox 20 months ago

      This post saved me 290 bucks. Very helpful and thorough. AC man quoted 300 bucks to fix. I looked on this post, did the trick with the stick and the fan started. Bought the part at ac parts store for 10 bucks. It literally took me ten minutes to diagnose the problem and fix it. Thank you so much for the post. Over the years ive saved thousands of dollars by doing these odd jobs myself with absolutely no experience, just looking on posts like yours that walk you through step by step. Again thank you so much for taking the time to post!!

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 20 months ago from Ohio

      Sj- thank you for letting me know. Perhaps it sounds cliche but this is truly why I do this. Its fulfilling to know I'm able to help people in some way if even only with things like these.

    • sjhutcherson profile image

      sjhutcherson 20 months ago

      I am so grateful for this tutorial. I'm so broke and the a/c people wanted $75 to just come out and look at it. That's way too much. Of course they said that it would apply to any repairs I had done. *rolls eyes* Anyway I was in my house yesterday with a broken down a/c, 98 degrees in my house and in tears. I started brainstorming with some of my friends on Facebook and one of them said that she had the exact same symptoms that I'm having and that it was the capacitor. So I did a Google search to see if I could figure out how to tell if mine was bad. This was the first search result. I read through and went and checked my capacitor and sure enough it's bad. I'm going to pick up a new one this morning. You have really helped my life. And now I will be able to pass knowledge and even assistance to my friends should they have this problem. And I will link them to this page. Thank you so much for helping this way.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 20 months ago from Ohio

      Thank you sahil, Lilleyth, and padmendra! I really appreciate your feedback!

    • sahil chhikara8 profile image

      sahil chhikara 20 months ago

      WOW GREAT MAY BE I HAVE TEACHER LIKE YOU IN MECHNICAL STUDIES

    • Lilleyth profile image

      Suzanne Sheffield 20 months ago from Mid-Atlantic

      This is a GREAT hub. If I can find a video or DIY article to fix something I have found, in 9 out of 10 cases, I can fix it myself. Voted up. Thank you for writing about this subject, which from all the comments, is a common problem that can be fairly easily fixed.

    • padmendra profile image

      PADMENDRA S R 20 months ago from DELHI/NCR

      A very informative Hub. Thanks for sharing.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 20 months ago from Ohio

      Mandy - sorry for the delay but I would look into the thermostat first. That's where I'd start.

    • profile image

      mandy 20 months ago

      My central air unit was working fine last night but today nothing. The inside or the outside doesn't kick on not even the fan. The breaker is showing red in the glass. Please help

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 21 months ago from Ohio

      JacobCornell - Your circuit must be overloaded. Does it run when you shut everything off and then turn it on?

    • JacobCornell profile image

      Jacob Cornell 21 months ago from Sandy Creek

      Ok so when we turn it on it just randomly shuts everything else in the room off. It makes a very loud and strange sound when it does.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 21 months ago from Ohio

      This is far too broad of a question to pinpoint an answer however, I suppose I would initially be checking the thermostat.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 21 months ago from Ohio

      Well perhaps but the clicking makes me lean towards a bad contactor. This is what completes the 220V connection when the furnace tells the outdoor unit it wants air. You may have some build up in the contact or need a new one. This is what I would be looking for anyway if you told me this prior to me coming to take a look at it.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 21 months ago from Ohio

      Check your breaker, fuse on the circuit board and maybe, the capacitor on the indoor/furnace blower. Hopefully one of these common issues are it and if not, you'll likely need a pro.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 21 months ago from Ohio

      Definitely still the capacitor and I would change them back asap. They likely are not the same rated capacitor and the fan inside needs that to run at the appropriate speed. Could potentially burn up your motor inside without it.

    • JacobCornell profile image

      Jacob Cornell 21 months ago from Sandy Creek

      Why does my conditioner shut off randomly?

    • Cornelius Amos profile image

      Cornelius Amos 21 months ago

      My outside fan quit blowing last night. The fan came own when I walked outside and pushed the fan with a hanger. It only stayed on a few minutes before stopping. My wife said that she heard a clicking noise several times this morning before it came on again. Is the capacitor still the most likely problem?

    • profile image

      delores ahlstrom 21 months ago

      hi had a bad rainstorm lastnight, now my central air isn't working. the unit outside the fan is spinning but inside the blower/fan is not working any ideas?

    • profile image

      HBtaylor 21 months ago

      Our outside fan stopped, but the inside fan was still blowing. We "stole" the capacitor from our basement unit to put in the unit that was not working until we the new one we ordered arrives. The outdoor fan is now working however the indoor fan is only blowing warm air. Could it still be a capacitor issue or is it most likely something else.

    • profile image

      Brian 21 months ago

      My Ac was working fine the other day but I was going out of town so I turned the thermostat off. When I returned I turned the thermostat back on and the blower kicked on as well as the Ac. I noticed the house was not cooling so went out and it looked as if just the fan was blowing so I turned off the breakers to check. When I turned back on the breakers the outside unit just clicks now and makes a buzzing sound for about a minute and stops not even the fan kicks on. Any ideas on what could be causing this

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 21 months ago from Ohio

      Kim - It sounds like the low voltage wiring for the thermostat is wrong or shorting. Have you changed your stat lately? The colors at the furnace and stat should match. Red to red, white to white, green to green and yellow to yellow. Then, from the furnace to the a/c...one wire (probably white) should be going to the common "C" on the furnace and the other (probably red) should be hooked to the "Y" on the furnace. If the green is in the wrong spot, or shorting, it controls the fan and could be making it run while whatever other wire is wrong or shorted, isn't doing it's job. If the wires are correct, then perhaps something has caused a short in that wire or the control board in the furnace itself. A control board can't be repaired really, just replaced. Hope this helps.

    • profile image

      Kim 21 months ago

      Hi Cre8tor. Hoping you can give me some guidance. We've been using our a/c already for a month or so but suddenly it is acting very strange. The inside unit's fan is blowing constantly. I can't turn it off at the thermostat, I have to use the power switch attached to the unit itself. I've tried turning the thermostat to off, changing it to heat, and also turning the temp up...none of this worked. It blows coolish air, but not cold enough to cool the house (at least it's not hot air). The outside unit will not kick in. Since the inside unit won't even stop, I don't think the outside unit is even getting a chance so I have no idea where to start. Can you help, please?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 21 months ago from Ohio

      Dreamgore - The compressor will be warm so TOO warm is subjective but yes, if it's overheating, that's a problem and could be a result of a sluggish fan. If you've replaced the capacitor and it's working, then perhaps your fan is going bad. It would also be a factor if you're getting low or "brown" power to the unit. At this point though, I would recommend a professional because if you change both capacitors, the remaining possible issues require a lot of specific tools and knowledge to make an accurate diagnosis. Thanks for reading.

    • profile image

      Dreamgore 22 months ago

      Cre8tor, i have a similar issue to above. I have a Trane HVAC system and followed recommendations on other sites. My issue was that the compressor/motor would hum, but fan didn't spin. I found the run capacitor was slightly bulged and was leaking oily substance. I got a replacement from local HVAC company. Once i replaced the capacitor, the fan stsrted working again, but seemed sluggish. I left and came back a few hours later and found room temp had climbed up again and the compressoe fan wasn't spinning anymore. Should i replace the start capacitor now? In both instances the compressor seemed very warm...

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 22 months ago from Ohio

      Will - No. The capacitor doesn't control the indoor fan. The unit should not have to defrost so you have another problem.

    • profile image

      will 22 months ago

      I have an older goodman unit. The unit froze up and I turned it off to defrost and the left back corner of the unit was humming from the internal fan. Now the humming quit does a capacitor control that fan also

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 22 months ago from Ohio

      Thank you Marcus!

    • profile image

      Marcus Just 22 months ago

      Nice how-to. I have a 30 year old unit that intend to keep running as long as possible. I will keep this for future reference.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 22 months ago from Ohio

      No. It's more likely a piston in your compressor (like a car would) or perhaps a loose fan blade if the clacking is that noticeable. If it's an older piston compressor, and it is bad...I would get ready for a new unit. The repairs are pretty healthy costwise for that and then you've spent a bunch of money on a system with no warranty, bad efficiency, parts that will difficult to get and R22 is very expensive if you leak again which is where most of your cost will go when you do the compressor since you likely have an R22 system. You could potentially be looking at $300-400 in refrigerant alone. Anyhow, I would have it looked at but it sounds as if it's going. My opinion, don't fix what's not broke but prepare for what's about to in a case like this.

    • Rich Herkalo profile image

      Richie 22 months ago from central New Jersey

      I have an older Lennox unit . At start up it makes a loud "clacking " noise. Otherwise the unit runs silent. Is this a capacitor noise also?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 22 months ago from Ohio

      James - I can't say I have a suggestion. It's not something very common at least in my experience. I've never had to replace these things as a result of troubleshooting. That said, they are available on the net most likely by a company like LittleFuse or Bussman.

    • profile image

      James 22 months ago

      what do you suggest for a re-settable fuse coming off the 24vdc common (hot side). I don't want to replace transformers or fuses while troubleshooting. Where would I find one?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 23 months ago from Ohio

      Debbie, So good to hear these stories. I'm not trying to put anyone out of business but I am trying to help folks from going broke on simple things. Surely the time will come that you'll need that new unit but until then, may the power be yours!! Haha!

    • profile image

      debbie 23 months ago

      thanks for you site.i do all my own home repair stuff .a service tech quoted me $250 for a new capacitor.i bought one for $16.took 5 min to trade out and now i have air!!!!they said i needed a new unit at $4000

    • profile image

      brent 23 months ago

      I appreciate the response!! Ill look into this limit tripping.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 23 months ago from Ohio

      Brent - Assuming you have a pretty standard unit, it sounds like a limit is being tripped in which case can be tricky to diagnose particularly via the net. In killing the power, you may be resetting the limit so it's fine until it trips again. This means either the limit is bad or something is going on to make the limit open the circuit. Hard to tell from here. I'm sorry.

    • profile image

      brent 23 months ago

      Hey cre8tor,

      My a/c unit's fan did not work so i did the stick test and it started working. I changed the capacitor and hoped that was the end of that. A week later my house was hot so i checked outside again and the fan was not spinning again. I turned off my a/c pulled out the disconnect and looked at the capacitor. Didn't see anything wrong with it so i put the disconnect back in and turned on my a/c again. When i went back outside to check on the fan, it was already spinning. The desired temperature inside the house was reached and the a/c shuts off automatically. The house warms up again and the a/c system turns back on. I check outside and the fan is not spinning... So i turn off the a/c, take the disconnect out and put it back in then the fan starts spinning on its own when i turn the a/c back on. Any idea on what this problem could be? Thank you advance for your time.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 24 months ago from Ohio

      Sounds like a problem at the board. I don't think you're getting voltage to the stat from the unit. If you go to the furnace with a short piece of stat wire...take the red and yellow stat wire connections off the board and use your piece to "jump" from red to yellow and it works...you have a problem in the stat wiring (assuming your brand new stat isn't defective too). If it doesn't, you likely have an issue in the board.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 24 months ago from Ohio

      Well the units in the attic are the problem. They may be getting power but it sounds like the motor is locked up or not being "told" to come on. The hum is either a transformer (which is not likely the issue here), a contactor of some sort which I don't think you'll have in the air handler, or the motor trying to spin but not....does the fan work if you just switch it to fan? Is there any odor? Is the motor giving off what seems to be excessive heat? Hope something here points you in the right direction.

    • profile image

      Randy 24 months ago

      W e checked our digital thermostat the other day and it was off. We added batteries to the back up and it worked fine but the unit was not working. There is a noise like it is working (gas unit) but the fan does not move. We changed out the thermostat but it still does not get power except for the batteries....any suggestions?

    • profile image

      Mark 2 years ago

      My AC was running fine for a few hours, then it shut off as it reached the desired temp. I noticed the house was set at 78 but the house temp was 84. I went up in the attic and both AC's have power. About every ten minutes they would "hum" for about a minute and then stop. Never blowing air. The outside fans seem to be running fine. Any idea as to what might be my issue?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Robert - Every 3 to 4 seconds....no. That's not normal. A heat pump is an A/C working in reverse and should only run when needed. It may come on from time to time to keep the refrigerant from pooling and letting the crankcase heater come on but 3 to 4 second intervals, I don't believe that's normal at all.

    • profile image

      robert depremio 2 years ago

      i have a York A/C w/heat pump. in the winter months, the A/C will come on and off repeatedly (about every 3 to 4 seconds). heat will work but just wondering if this is normal? Thanks.

    • profile image

      michaelc 2 years ago

      Thanks Cre8tor. Makes me feel much better about the decision we are going with.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      michaelc - Sorry for the delay...yes it sounds very valid. I was going to suggest checking fuses and breakers. If the breaker keeps tripping, then there is a short and compressors can be the culprit. Disconnecting power from the compressor, and it not tripping, isolates the problem with very little to doubt. Thanks for reading.

    • profile image

      michaelc 2 years ago

      ok...had a tech come out for a diagnostic check up...told me it was my compressor that is out. the breaker was tripped and when we turned it back on it immediately tripped again. I believe he disconnected the compressor from either the capacitor and/or the contact and when we switched the breaker to on it didn't trip. this was his explanation that the compressor out. Sound valid???

    • profile image

      michaelc 2 years ago

      Outside fan is not running. I do hear the light humming sound however the stick test did not work. Looked over your article again and maybe I missed it but what does that leave me with to check?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Elizabeth - It sounds like you have a heat pump system??? If not, then there's something wrong with your furnace and the a/c has nothing to do with it. If it's heat pump and freezing up then there's not much I can suggest for a homeowner to do to repair it. This would very likely have to be handled by a pro.

    • profile image

      Elizabeth 2 years ago

      My a/c unit blows out cold air during summer time but when i switch to heat there's no heat coming out from the vent. The outside unit freezes up. Can you tell me what's wrong with it?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      BilllyWPB - It sounds like there could be a short somewhere or if it's a heating/cooling unit, it may be circulating refrigerant to keep it from pooling. Depending on your unit, some hi-tech ones will kick on the compressor to do this every so often.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Elizabeth - I would need more to go on to offer any suggestions.

    • profile image

      Elizabeth 2 years ago

      My a/c is working well. Because of the cold weather I had to switch to heating. Although no heat is coming out. Any suggestion?

    • profile image

      BilllyWPB 2 years ago

      I do maintenance for an apartment building in FL. One of our LG window ac units is acting odd. The compressor will start running spontaneously. JUST the compressor, even with the power OFF. the only way to stop it is pulling the power cord. Any suggestions ???

    • profile image

      Cptron 2 years ago

      Thank you for your help. Think I'll change the contactor. The cost is low and it's fairly straightforward. If it works, great. Good luck with your keyboard.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Sorry Cptron. I think I've exhausted my online diagnosis possibilities. I wish it would've been something simple and it does seem to be an issue with the contactor or low voltage communication but I'm very limited on "surefire" responses here. Next step would be for me to come out however I've traded in my tool belt for a keyboard and desk these days. I do hope that you get it worked out though and perhaps one of my suggestions will at least assist in that.

    • profile image

      Cptron 2 years ago

      Sorry, but I forgot to mention that the blower is working even though the outside unit does not come on. Thanks.

    • profile image

      Cptron 2 years ago

      Well....so much for luck. It worked for a couple of days then quit again. I decided to replace the contactor. I loosened the old contactor from the unit, but then had to stop because of rain. I attached the old contactor back to the unit, closed the access panel and went inside. To my surprise, the unit kicked on. It worked for a day or so and then.....it quit. Don't know what it could be now. Any thoughts? I have not installed the new contactor.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Cptron - Better to be lucky than good some say. :-) It may be that there's a slight build up in the contactor that you've "shook" loose and are now getting a better connection. This could be a sign of the contactor/coil going bad. Might want to prepare to replace that contactor next year. Now that you've seen it, you know that it's not a complex task and if you kill the power to the unit, you should be safe to do it with just a few household tools. The part itself isn't expensive either. Anywhere from $25 - $50. I wouldn't pay more. You're probably looking for a 2 pole, 240v/24v coil contactor. Honeywell makes a couple pretty universal ones. The main thing is that it bolts up the same and fits into the space since this is a common rated contactor...it's the size that will matter.

    • profile image

      Cptron 2 years ago

      I checked the wires and all looked ok. I pushed the button on the contactor and the unit came on, but as soon as I let the contactor button go, the unit turned off. As I was reinstalling the cover, the unit kicked on and remained on until the set temperature was reached. It also kicked on later when the house warmed up. Maybe there was a loose contact in the wires I checked and, unknowingly, I tightened it. Who knows. Whatever the reason, it seems to be running for the moment. I really appreciate your help and your guidance seems to have paid off. Thank you.

    • profile image

      Cptron 2 years ago

      Thank you. I will give this a try to report back.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      CptRon - Check the low voltage wiring connections. I've explained the r to r, y to y here in the comments below but also look to see if there is a wire from the outside unit to the furnace. One of those should go to the C on the furnace and one to the Y on the furnace. Outside, they connect to 2 low voltage wires (maybe brown and blue or yellow??? doesn't really matter) and it doesn't matter which they're connected to. Make sure other furnace functions are working (fan only, heat,) because it's possible your board is bad and not communicating to the a/c outside. Or, there may be a problem with the contactor which usually has a sort of button in the middle. You can try to push that button in with a stick and see if the unit comes on. If it does, you'll need a new one because the coil is shot and it's not worth trying to replace by itself. Just buy the whole contactor. Check the wiring I just talked about first though because it's what makes the contactor pull in. If there's a problem there, it could be misleading. I hope something here helps and works.

    • profile image

      CptRon 2 years ago

      My inside unit is running and the batteries are fresh in the thermostat. The outside unit is not running at all. When I activate the thermostat there is no noise from the outside unit. I have reset the circuit breaker in the house and the outside unit does not have fuses, only copper tabs which are in good shape. The capacitor looks good. What else can I look for?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      derek s - You're right and that's what I'm working on! Thanks for the feedback and glad to have helped.

    • profile image

      derek s 2 years ago

      So glad I found this page. Followed the instructions and for $7.00 I have a working a/c. The "stick test" is something every home owner should know. Thanks again!!!!

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Aaron - One is a start capacitor and the other is a run capacitor. My first thought is to be sure you have power from the breaker panel and then that the fuses in the disconnect outside by the condenser are still good. Hopefully this will get you going in the right direction. Congrats on the house!

    • profile image

      Aaron Fisk 2 years ago

      Hi i just bought a house and the outside unit is not kicking on. I can hear a soft humming. I tried spinning the fan with a stick and still nothing. I have 2 capaiters, one saying start capaiter and the other i can't read. both seem to be in good shape, the house was a REPO so it sat for over a year before I bought it. Any segestions?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Awesome! and thank you for the comment BillWa.

    • profile image

      BillWa 2 years ago

      Thanks so much for this article. It was very easy to follow the directions. My AC is up and running again. You saved me $$$.

    • profile image

      ABC 2 years ago

      No prob.

      Thanks for all your help!

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Well ABC, I'm not sure what else to offer you unfortunately. The net limits me quite a bit and I'm sorry that I haven't been able to help you resolve your issue.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Joey Books - That's sweet! I'm with you...I'll wait a day or 2 to save that much. Many supply houses or contractors will charge more simply because you're not in the biz.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Your welcome John.

    • profile image

      Joey Books 2 years ago

      Thanks for the clear concise article. I saved a bunch of money replacing the capacitor in my AC myself. Had to order one online though. Local HVAC contractor wanted 80 bucks for one! Got mine for 22. Even though I had to wait for delivery a couple days, it was worth it. My neighbor spent more than 200 on a service call for the same problem.

    • profile image

      ABC 2 years ago

      Thanks so much for all your help.

      I'm still not giving up yet…

      Yes - it is a dual capacitor. It is a 35/5.

      The fan is working fine, no problem. I checked the filter and check for leaves and all that sort of thing.

      I am working on finding a place to get a replacement capacitor just to try it. In the meantime I pulled the capacitor and measured it. It is measuring at 28.9 / 4.646 so clearly under value for both halves. Not sure if that would cause it to not start the compressor…. Everything I read says to be within 5% tolerance. This is clearly outside that, but it's not like it has failed. If I can get a new one I'll try that as my next step. Thanks again!

    • profile image

      John 2 years ago

      Hi thanks...that was it!

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Awesome! I mean, well you know what I mean. :-) Glad I could help. Often it's the simplest things that techs overlook taking too much for granted. Thanks Natalia for following up and letting myself and others know. People can learn a lot by reading these comments so perhaps you'll be helping others too by sharing. Have a great day!

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      He probably just had the 2 that would work so did it this way to save time. I like the thought of less parts so in my opinion, yes. Put it back the way it was but you'd probably find just as many people would say no and that it doesn't matter.... Bugs can cause issues but it's not real common other than being pesky.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      ABC - If the outside fan is running for sure, then perhaps there is a compressor issue but first...make sure you don't have 2 capacitors. (one for fan and one for compressor.) Some units don't use a dual capacitor. (one cap with terminals for H,C and F) Be sure the filter at the furnace is clean. This has a bigger impact on A/C than people give it credit for. Also be sure the outdoor unit isn't clogged up with grass cuttings and such. If after checking all these things you still have the same issue then yes, you likely have low refrigerant, a leak, a restriction or the compressor is shot all of which need a pro. I mentioned the R22 thing....whenever thinking about doing a furnace and a/c, it's always best to do both at the same time if it's in the budget. You'll spend significantly more doing them separately. I have other Hubs that may be helpful in your checking the a/c and/or buying a new system. I hope this has been helpful and thanks again.

    • profile image

      ABC 2 years ago

      Hi,

      Thanks for your response! You are helping a lot of people!

      I wasn't very clear. The fan is definitely running no problem at all (on its own, no stick). The only symptom I have is no cooling. I *think* the compressor is running but not sure. I definitely hear the fan and it blows a lot of air out the top. The small line is definitely cool and the bigger wrapped line is definitely not. (Opposite of what should be, yes?)

      What I don't know for sure is if I hear only the fan running, or the fan AND the compressor running. Mine sounds pretty much just like the neighbors, so I think it probably is running. I guess I could try replacing the capacitor and seeing if that makes a change. I don't see any icing at all. Would the icing be in the outdoor unit? Or where would I see that?

      I'm trying to decide whether to just change the capacitor on general principals and hope that is the issue. (I'm trying to find one around here.) Or, whether to call a service person. Or, whether to replace both my furnace and the A/C now. It is ~25 years old and the furnace has some issues, too.

      Thanks for all your info / advice!

      -ABC

    • profile image

      nestman1 2 years ago

      hello,

      My A/C unit was repaired about two years ago, the repairman used two capacitors to replace a dual run capacitor. My unit just went out again the contactor engages but the neither compressor nor the fan run. There is also a small burn mark and hole in one of the capacitors. I don't know if ants and some bees in the housing unit caused a short but help. Should I replace the capacitors with a oem dual capacitor?

      Thank You

    • Natalia Litkewycz profile image

      Natalia Litkewycz 2 years ago

      You are correct on the low voltage wiring! There was a short in it. After much aggravation and the 5 th AC guy the problem was figured out. I only wish that I found your blog earlier! Thanks for getting back to me! I now know where to find you if anything should happen again!

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      ABC - First, the capacitor doesn't have to bulge to be bad and if the fan outside was running, you'd know because it would be blasting air out of the top. (or side...anyway)The noise of a compressor is usually noticeable/distinguishable like a refrigerator running so...the noise you hear is likely the sound of the contactor being "pulled in" by the low voltage wiring that is telling it to turn on. That said, I'd put my money on the capacitor. The small pipe (liquid line) should be warm to the touch and the bigger pipe should be colder thus why it's wrapped in armoflex. (it sweats) Typically, a unit that's low on refrigerant will ice up somewhere on the copper lines unless empty in which case, the unit outside would still run but not produce cooling. Eventually the unit would have issues but not in an afternoon. You'dve noticed a loss in cooling first. 9 times out of 10, a unit does NOT need added refrigerant. If there is a leak, again, you'd likely see icing up somewhere, you couldn't fix it yourself nor detect it and if you have an R22 refrigerant system, now is the time to think about replacing it before you spend a fortune on repairs and the VERY expensive R22 refrigerant. Did you try starting the fan with a stick as I suggested to see if it will go? If it does, then the capacitor is bad...IT IS NOT FIXED if the fan spins with help by a stick but it does tell you the "cap" is bad. Thanks for reading!

    • profile image

      ABC 2 years ago

      Hi Cre8tor,

      Great article.

      Because of it I have been trying to fix my A/C.

      My A/C was doing fine, but I left in the afternoon and when I came home the house was hot. The fan was still blowing but it was not cold air. I saw your article and thought it is probably the compressor capacitor. I took a look at the capacitor and it looks fine. (not bulged) I can't tell if the sound I am hearing from the unit is just the fan or the fan and the compressor. I think I hear the compressor, but not positive. Is there a way to verify if the compressor is running? The small copper pipe is cold, but the bigger pipe does not feel cold.

      I'm thinking that either it is the capacitor (and the compressor is really not running), or the compressor has failed, or I am out of coolant. If it was low on coolant, would it have failed all at once like it did? If it sprung a leak, would there be any telltale evidence of that?

      Sorry for all the questions…. do you have any thoughts or ideas?

      Thanks so much!

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Natalia - The only thing I can offer based on what I know would be to check all the low voltage wiring. Crossed or shorted wires will cause all kinds of things to act goofy and would also have the potential to blow a fuse on a circuit board. Red to R, White to W, Green to G and Yellow to Y. If the blue wire is in use, it should be on the C terminals. Aside from that, I can't really draw anything certain for your situation but it does make sense, again, based on what I know. Thank you for reading!

    • Natalia Litkewycz profile image

      Natalia Litkewycz 2 years ago

      Hello. My house is 8 years old. My Air Conditioner stopped working one day. I had an electrician friend come over and he pointed out that I had a bad fuse in the furnace. Then, the AC unit and furnace was acting up. First the fan in the house would be on and then click off, and do it for a few times. The AC does work. So far, I've replaced the fuse, the board inside the furnace, and thermostat. Any ideas of what could be going on when it goes on and off a few times like something is going on? Sometimes the fan on the inside is on, but the outside unit does not go on. Any information would help. Thanks!

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Joe A Robles Jr. - Hmmm...it wouldn't be the first time I've seen a capacitor go bad but there is usually a reason if so...sometimes bad manufacturing and sometimes a different problem with the unit that's causing this which unfortunately leaves a multitude of possibilities. Start by verifying all the wiring is correct and that there doesn't appear to be any "shorts". There is also the possibility that there is a communication problem between the furnace board and the a/c in which case again, creates a lot of potential issues. If it's in the budget, I would attempt the capacitor again since if it works, you can return the other on warranty and the issue does still resemble a bad capacitor. Otherwise, due to the many issues that COULD be, you may want to have a tech out. At least you'll know if he says capacitor...you should call another tech. Thanks for reading and if you would, check back and let me know what you find.

    • Joe A Robles Jr profile image

      Joe A Robles Jr 2 years ago

      Great article. I replaced my capacitor and the fan turned back on and everything was fine that night. The next morning, the a/c wasn't working again and the fan wasn't turning (again). The unit was still powered on. Any ideas why?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Thanks Tony! Glad to help. Many others for heating season should you run into anything during the winter season.

    • profile image

      Tony 2 years ago

      Your post is awesome. 30 minutes and I had clean coils and a new capacitor.

      30 bucks:)

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Awesome. I suppose that should have crossed my mind as a possibility...I'm spoiled on so many having dual capacitors that it doesn't spring to mind right away. Glad it worked and you're back in business. I really appreciate the follow up!

    • profile image

      bluerite 2 years ago

      Thanks. We had some work done a couple of years ago on it and the motor to the fan was replaced and apparently he separated the fan from the compressor so there was 2 capacitors a large one and small one. I didn't realize that. I replaced the small capacitor (to the fan apparently) and it works like a champ now. Thanks for your article , still saved me a chunk of change.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      bluerite - I only know of a working fan that can be started with a stick being a result of a capacitor. It's possible you have a bad one out of the box...I've seen it. Rare, but I've seen it. Double check the specs on the "cap" while you're at it. Sorry, but that's all I can offer on this.

    • profile image

      bluerite 2 years ago

      I am having trouble with the fan starting up. I can push start it with the stick and it comes on. I replaced the capacitor and the same thing happens, I still have to push start the fan. When it cuts off it doesn't come back on by itself.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Dee - Hmmmm. Kinda tricky here since the batteries shouldn't really have fixed the problem and then not again....I'm leaning towards a bad contactor in the outdoor unit and that it's not staying pulled in to keep the outdoor unit running. There are a couple of other possibilities but this would be the most common and unfortunately, this isn't as easy to "read" over the net without running a few tests. You may want to have a pro check it out but again...I'm leaning towards the contactor since everything else seems to be working. (Other potentials are power/heat overloads cutting the unit out. Bad connections in the outdoor unit....all of which aren't the typical do it yourself type of repairs. Even the contactor should be left to someone whose confident in their electrical repair skills.)

      Thanks for reading and I'm sorry if I wasn't as much help as you'd hoped on this one.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Hi Matthew - First, remember just because the stick trick worked...it's only a diagnostic "tool" to help confirm a bad capacitor NOT a repair. You'll still need a capacitor or it will not start again the next time and the compressor is likely still not functioning proper without the "cap". As for the wiring. It doesn't sound right to me. NO wires should be used to replace another wire. A typical stat should have red (for 24v power supply), White is for heat, yellow is for cooling and green is for the fan. Blue is typically used as a common when it comes into play. Crossing the fan to the common would certainly cause a problem or he moved the green at the stat and the furnace therefore eliminating your ability to use the fan by itself and making an issue when the unit is calling for cooling since the yellow will by nature bring the green into play when it's being asked to cool so...in short, yes. That is a problem. If your stat is smoking it sounds like perhaps the fan wire to the common terminal is now feeding 24V to the common and that is a "short circuit". I hope this helps and good luck in getting them to correct the issue. Of course I have to cover myself in saying "I'm not there to confirm this visually" but it does sound like this to me. Thanks for reading.

    • profile image

      Dee from Sac Ca 2 years ago

      What a great site. Thank you!!! I hope you can help me.

      My home and unit are 13 years old. I am having an issue with my air. I generally set t-stat at 80 degrees when I leave for work. The other day I came home and it was 84 in house. The inside fan was running, the outside unit was clicking on and off, it would run for 45 seconds to 2 minutes than click off. I lowered the temp inside on t-stat to 78 the fan inside came on immediately so did outside unit(fan turns) but outside unit did not stay running. Inside air is cool when it blows. I replaced batteries in t-stat (who knew you had to do that) it worked for a couple days than same problem. Any ideas?

    • profile image

      Matthew Raley 2 years ago

      AWESOME ARTICLE!!

      It's currently 11pm and my wife said that someone has turned the heat on (kids?) before I got home from work around 8pm... A blistering 80 degrees inside!!

      I paid no attention to if my unit was working since she said the heat had been turned on. Well, the house wasn't cooling off and lo and behold, my unit was making a humming noise. I pushed the fan blade and the outside unit fired up.

      The house is slowly cooling off now but my question is, the power company put a thermostat in a couple years ago. I had a honeywell touchscreen before this piece of junk. When they installed it they said my common wire was shorted so he said he used my fan to create a common. I wasn't too happy since my last thermostat worked fine before they started messing with it.

      Last winter I went to turn on my heat for the first time and the thermostat smoked... They said it was just a bad thermostat. Could their wire job caused any issues with my system? I noticed my thermostat is getting a mind of its own and sometimes I've seen it set to heat or auto, even though I know it was set to cool. Could its random change from cool to heat to cool cause my equipment to break down or the wiring job cause the thermostat to act crazy? Maybe I have ghosts... If so, is this the right help site for them??????

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Great to hear Ed from VH, IL. Thank you for sharing. Now go treat yourself to a nice dinner. LOL. I'm glad these are popping up in my comments so people can really see the value of this information when it applies to them and it's not just me blowing smoke.

    • profile image

      Ed from V.H. IL 2 years ago

      Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! The capacitor looked bloated just as mentioned. I called the local repair shop to ask them if they could come out and that I knew exactly what the problem was. It was hard to get a capacitor (80/5 mF) myself, but once I did find one online (because the local shop would not sell to non-licensed HVAC workers), I was able to follow your instructions and install and have running AC again within 20 minutes and at least $300 less than what I would have had to pay.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      You have a lot going on but let's start with the low voltage wiring at the stat and furnace. R, W, Y, and G should all been connected between the stat and furnace. Making sure none are touching. If G is touching Red...your fan will never shut off. As for the condensor...it would be easier to figure things out with the first problem addressed because I'm quite sure you have more than one. Thanks for reading and let me know if this helps at all and we can go from there.

    • profile image

      HollyR 2 years ago

      Currently my AC system is not working. The indoor fan continuously runs, it did this in the wintertime but it DID heat the home, and in the spring the AC system worked (the indoor fan continuously during the spring), and at the start of summer it all of sudden stopped cooling. The indoor fan was still going but i was not getting cold air. I DO NOT hear a click when i turn on and off the system. The outside unit does not HUM or turn on at all. What could be the Problem? I keep hearing and reading about a capacitor but it has been associated with a humming sound. I do not have the humming sound.

    • profile image

      Rachel 2 years ago

      Please help..came home to my central air unit broken. It hums but the fan doesn't spin. The top of my unit is very hot. Sounds like a compressor from reading everything but I tried the stick and the blades move freely but it doesn't start the unit up. So I'm not sure if its that. I checked the breaker because we had a storm and nothing is tripped. I still reset it and still not working. I'm a single mother of 2 and don't make much because I go to school and work full time and of course mommy hood full time.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Thanks Corey for the update. Really glad you saved. Hmmm, you know...I think you readers who have saved money by checking things out and saved $192....should right back about what you bought yourself with that money you just found. REALLY, I mean some new shoes...a movie date...You earned it!

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      It sounds like there's a problem in the low voltage coming from the furnace or stat. Somewhere it's not communicating that the air should come on or, the 24v coil in the relay is bad. If you replaced the contactor and it included (which many do) the low voltage coil that pulls in the contact, it sounds like the furnace board or somewhere in the wiring from the stat to the furnace or the furnace to the a/c. Red and yellow are the a/c "communicating" wires from the stat to the furnace. (green kind of too but doesn't really come into play here.) Between the a/c and the furnace, they are red and white though they aren't likely tied to those terminals. They should connect white to "c" and red to "y" on the furnace and then to whatever color low voltage wires the unit has...not mattering to which...usually just wired nut together. Also check the fuse on the furnace board...it's a 3 amp spade fuse like in your car. If all these produce no results...it could be a furnace board. Let's hope not and that one of these simple things you can check for free will resolve the problem. I know it's a lot but it's hard to pinpoint issues over the net. This is just what I would be looking at first if I were there. I can't guarantee obviously. BE SAFE and thanks for reading.

    • profile image

      Corey Gella 2 years ago

      Just wanted to update my current post...it WAS the capacitor in the end, even though it didn't look defective at all. It was a great idea to check the cap first since that was the easiest and cheapest possible fix. A plumber friend was able to find the replacement cap for just $8 at his plumbing supply store. $8 vs. $200 which I was quoted by a professional outfit the other day. I'll take that. Just a PSA: Even if your capacitor doesn't look bad (mine looked brand new with just a little dirt and cobwebs - no classic "bulge" on the top), it still could be bad. Thank you to Cre8tor for the tip to check that first before assuming it's a more complex issue!

    • profile image

      David 2 years ago

      Outdoor unit will not come on. I have changed the Run capacitor and contactor switch and it still wont start. If I push in the switch on the contactor it will run until I release. What else could be the issue?

      Thank you

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      You have a whole lot going on there. You could possibly have a problem in the furnace wiring causing the contactor to constantly pull/call for air. Perhaps experiencing a "brown out"...issues with supply voltages. I've seen new motors come bad out of box though it's not too common.If the pros said "this" and it's "that", they should have to make "amends" on the faulty diagnosis. That new of a unit (depending on how hi-tech you got) could have a board in it that's not communicating properly. The sad thing about newer units is that simplicity is gone. Like that of the automobile. I would return to the service company and ask that they come back and make it right...both the unit and the bill. Best of luck and I'm curious as to what you find. Sorry I can't be of more assistance on this one.

    • profile image

      preevesPT6 2 years ago

      5 year old American Standard. Fan not running. R&R both Run Cap & Fan Motor per professionals. Still not running. Compressor kicks on but fan doesn't. Stick doesn't work either. Double checked wiring its good. Contact is stuck in and wont release. I'm out of ideas.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      The humming could just be the contactor and the capacitor won't always bulge. I'm with you...start with the cap. Worst case, you're out $20 and have a spare for when it does go because it will someday. Also, don't let a multi-meter fool you. Sometimes if the motor has been trying to run on a bad capacitor, it will overheat and throw the thermal overload which often can reset when it cools so again...start with the capacitor knowing that you really can't lose by having one around. If you do it the other way, you could spend a day and a $100 to find that the motor was fine and you need a capacitor. (Not so much use for a $100 spare motor sitting around...could be more) Thanks Corey for reading and commenting. Good luck and let me know how it turns out.

    • profile image

      Corey Gella 2 years ago

      Great post here. Question: I believe I have a bad capacitor in my Bryant AC unit. I hear buzzing (which I think is the compressor), but no fan spinning. Warm air is blowing inside the house. I did the stick test and got it to start and run for about 10 minutes, and I was getting cold air. It eventually stopped and I was not able to get it running again.

      I took the panel off the back of the unit today and examined the capacitor. It looks nearly brand new, and does not exhibit the bulging top that you mentioned. To me, it still sounds like the capacitor, but I have my doubts. What's the probability that it could be the fan motor? I am going to try and test it with a multimeter to see if I can tell for sure, but otherwise I might just try a new cap and take my chances seeing that it's only $20.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Jack - Awesome! Glad to help and thank you for the feedback.

    • profile image

      Jack Gilbert 2 years ago

      Thank you so much, you rock! this is awesome. Just fixed my air conditioner and it cost me $40 for the new capacitor - down from $180 that the service group quoted me!

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      And thank you Veronica for the kind words. I'm glad I was able to help and get you back up and running. Glad you gave it a shot!

    • profile image

      Veronica 2 years ago

      This was so... useful and well written and easy to follow. I'm a 32 yr female I was able to diagnose and repair my own 5yr old AC. The capacitor was domed at the top as described here. I was so lucky to have an AC supply store near by. My husband wasn't happy about me messing with it, but got the AC working. He works 12 hrs shifts so he couldn't get tho it sooner. I decided to give it a go. Only without AC for one day :) Thank you so much for this very useful information.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      I can't see why it would run full time unless it was wired wrong, bypassing the controls and being wired directly so that the controls aren't in the circuit.

    • profile image

      Craig Mitchell 2 years ago

      My Day & Night air conditioner fan keeps running even when it's not blowing cold air. It runs all day long. The only way I can turn it off is by flipping the main power breaker. What would cause this?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      I'm inclined to say yes. This should be done by an "actual" handyman. There is a lot more I would need to know to say otherwise and it could be a real mess at the least if not done right.

    • profile image

      Art 2 years ago

      We just replaced our outside a/c unit (Houston, TX). House was built in 1968 & dehumidifier probably installed around '72, according to A/C guy who worked for the co. installing them in this area. A/C guy had to come back out & do some work in the attic. When he finished he said we needed to get a plumber to come out & disconnect the dehumidifier in the attic. Said it was on the other side of the house. House is only 1860 sq.ft. Do you think a handyman could do this or do you think an actual handyman could do it? I have not been able to find any information on this on the internet. Thanks!

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Wow! My best return comment yet! Thank you so much for the feedback. If you've read my profile...this is why I do what I do here at HP. I'm so glad I was able to help you and prevent yet another "misdiagnosis" by "professionals". (I don't mean that all pros are bad...they're not.)

    • profile image

      Elizabeth Abarca 2 years ago

      Problem solved. It was the reverse wires on the motor. Both yellow and both orange wires were connected together. I exchanged one yellow wire with the orange wire and goes with the other one. Now air blowing outward from the top on the outside unit and works so GREAT. I was told by the repair man that needed to change the compressor and that since it's best just replace to a new unit which was never the case. Thank you so much you have saved me thousands of dollars.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      If the outdoor fan on the condenser is blowing down into the unit then it seems either the blades had been replaced at some point and were installed upside down or the polarity is reversed in the wiring. That's the only reasons I can think of.

    • profile image

      Elizabeth Abarca 2 years ago

      I have the same type of units. Why is one of my outside a/c unit motor blow in inwards? I compared from the other unit and checked everything from the wires to replace dual capacitor and other capacitor and does the same. The fan rotation is all good.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Well the first things that come to mind is that the capacitor on the indoor fan (furnace fan) is bad. Yes...it uses a capacitor too. Or, (and we hope this isn't the case...) the motor itself is "locked up" and needs to be replaced. Again, these are my first thoughts and what I would check if I were coming to make a service call...that doesn't mean 100% that's what it is. Let me know what happens if you get a chance.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      You're welcome Ashley and congrats on the new home! Just remember, getting the fan to turn with a stick doesn't fix the problem, it just helps to confirm what the problem is. (Just in case that's what is happening as many readers have thought that was the fix.) The capacitor would still need changed in that case but still only cost a few dollars and a little of your time. Hopefully though, that's not the case and you're good to go. Thanks for the feedback!

    • profile image

      Lavonne 2 years ago

      My fan is running just fine on the outside unit but the inside fan is not running at all you can hear it trying to come on but it never kicks in. Help!

    • profile image

      Ashley 2 years ago

      Thank you so much for posting this! We just bought our house and the ac stopped last night. We called many places for quotes and they said it was the motor. Then I read this and tested it out....now my ac is running! You saved my family about 500 dollars! Thank you!

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      singlemomof3tx- I'm glad this worked out for you. I would estimate that not only did you get the problem fixed sooner, you likely saved at least $150. Thank you so much for the feedback!

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      You're welcome Shay. Not sure that I was as much help as you'd hoped but am glad you're fixed.

    • Shay Paige profile image

      Shay Paige 2 years ago

      Thank you for your help here. I found out it was the circuit board that was fried. Replaced it and now im back skiing thank you!

    • profile image

      singlemomof3tx 2 years ago

      I have a Goodman refrigeration a/c unit. From one day to the next, my unit stopped working. The fan didn't turn without help and first thought was the fan motor was bad. After searching for possible issues and basically taking apart my unit, I noticed my capacitor was bulging at the top. I called several HVAC techs and none were available soon enough. I became desperate because I had 2 kids and 2 kittens that were burning up inside my 95 degree home. I replaced my capacitor for $7 and everything went back to normal!! Not until I fixed the unit myself did I receive calls from the HVAC techs asking if I still needed the assistance.

      Thank you very much for your post! It was very helpful!!!

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      George Toth - I'm not familiar with who the HVAC suppliers/distributors are down that way however that capacitor is rather common and should be easily found online. It looks like you have a Gemaire or Coastline Distribution around there. Give them a call and see. Capacitors are typically brand specific...just need to make sure the spec's match. Hope this helps.

    • profile image

      George Toth 2 years ago

      I have a Lenox HP29 heatpump w/35/5 dual cap where can I buy one I live in new port rechy fl near tampa

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Shay Paige - Check your wiring on the thermostat if you just did it. Make sure all connections are tight and correct. R to R, W to W, G to G, Y to Y and make sure that they are the same at the furnace. Whoever installed it before you may have put R to W and W to R...if so, you need to make sure they are in sync. There are often fuses outside at the disconnect by the A/C unit that will blow as well as checking for tripped breakers in the panel itself. Flip those breakers off then back on again to be sure. There is also a fuse on the circuit board of the furnace in many cases and it may be blown. This one looks more like that of a car fuse and is usually 3 or 5 amp. With a storm and replacement of the thermostat, these are the first things I would check if it was working proper before these things took place. Thanks for reading and I hope one of these suggestions will help.

    • Shay Paige profile image

      Shay Paige 2 years ago

      My ac isn't working after a storm...i have replaced my thermostat and fuse in the fuse box. still nothing? i checked the capacitor per your site and it looks fine. any ideas?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Steve - That's no way to come back from vacation and I'm glad this was helpful. Thank you very much for the feedback! It's always rewarding to hear these types of things.

    • profile image

      Steve 2 years ago

      THANK-YOU for this well documented and HELPFUL page! My family and I came home last night from vacation to a 93 degree house! (It's been hot in Idaho the last two weeks.)

      I've always treated the A/C like a mysterious black box, so my mind when immediately towards calling for repairs. All of the HVAC servicers are booked three days out, and after desperate searching came across this page. With about two hours (including calling around to find a local part) and $17, the A/C is purring like a kitten and the family is no longer sweating on the couch!

      THANKS AGAIN!

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Well yes.Ice was the ORIGINAL a/c as a matter of fact. That is why we refer to a/c sizes as "tons" because a ton of ice is enough to cool approximately 500-600 sq. ft. for a 24 hr. period. As it melts, it gives off cooling. With the assistance of a fan, you could cool quite well with ice. If you read up on the history of a/c, you'll find more details as to the methods used. Thanks for reading.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Thank you for sharing the outcome Khan Flo Mah! This is good information for future readers. I really appreciate the feedback.

    • profile image

      Jombuatduit 2 years ago

      Do you know any other way to create air con? Using ice maybe?

    • profile image

      Khan Flo Mah 2 years ago from Chicago, Illinois

      there is absolutely nothing worse than a person leaving a question on a help board, then they resolve it, and don't come back to say what happened. this includes healthcare type ones where lives are involved. I want to say where my problem was, and the breakdown.

      The fan would run, then stop, then I could get it to go with a stick. I replaced the fan AND cap. I tested across the compressor for continuity...common to Run, and Common to Start. and there was continuity, and therein was my problem. When I traced back the wires, to the capacitor? I didn't have the right wires on the right part of the capacitor. So in other words, I retraced my wiring. it was hot. I was angry. and I wired the cap and did so crossing a wire. Leading to the dual run cap, not providing the power that it was supposed to. So my problem is solved. Hey, I'll tell you what...I am married and I was living with four HOT ladies...until the air came back on! LOL now the wife a nd family are nice and cool. Thank you guys.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      You're welcome and thank you for the feedback. Now get ready for those late night calls from the neighborhood! Lol!

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Bad news is I've seen units do a lot of wacky things so to answer, in many cases I've seen fans run when the compressor is bad, yes but it's not a telltale sign of a bad/good compressor. I wish I had better info for you (and others too at times) but it's very hard to say for certain when I'm here and you're there. This isn't a "cut n dry" scenario that I feel real confident in my response. Too many variables and you may want to find a trustworthy pro to at least tell you what's going on so you don't go broke buying more parts. Once you're into the compressor, many tools, math and danger exists to get to the root of it.

    • profile image

      jlsreno 2 years ago

      Works like a charm. Many thanks for sharing this information. I am now the block captain for A/C repairs.

    • profile image

      Khan Flo Mah 2 years ago from Chicago, Illinois

      ok, I didn't know about the fan running backwards. But YES it blows outward. My ability for HVAC stops at the outside unit! LOL so as far as the board, u dunno. So if the compressor was shot, Would the fan come on and stop due to the compressor not working or not working properly? that's my thing.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Emma - The capacitor helps the fan and compressor in most residential systems. If it goes bad, neither run properly. The "stick trick" is a "diagnostic tool". It helps to confirm the capacitor is bad and not the fan. It does not fix the problem. The capacitor needs to be replaced before the a/c will work right.

    • profile image

      emma 2 years ago

      Ok it's 3 am so I wasn't going to read all comments but 7 months prego with a house set at 85° makes sleeping somewhat difficult. Just saw that cap runs compressor too so hoping that will be the fix I need. If anything I said suggests another problem I would appreciate any advice give . ( no I will not be personally changing capacitor)

    • profile image

      emma 2 years ago

      Same problem, thought it was solved with a push start. Fan came on and stayed on, system does not seem to be overheating. But four hours later and the temp inside hasn't dropped at all. Planning to replace capacitor tomorrow but fear it won't be the complete fix. Is capacitors only job to get fan spinning or would a bad one cause it to not cool also

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Hmmm. With all those new parts, and you're right, the cap doesn't seem to be the culprit, I'm inclined to say check your amperage ratings and draw. The rating plate on the unit should have it's "max amp" rating. Then check to see the breaker and fuses aren't higher than that. Even that doesn't seem likely if the unit has run for "x" years but??? I'm thinking for some reason you're tripping the "thermal overloads" in the motor. Fan spinning in the right direction? (air blowing out of and not into the unit) It's hard to say for sure since you've replaced the parts...something outside the unit seems to be a factor. How about the board in the furnace that's telling it what to do or the thermostat? They could cause a unit to do all sorts of stuff if the low voltage communications are messed up. It could be telling it to kick on, off, on, off....which in turn could cause funny actions. The motor would heat up fast if the compressor is running on a hot day and the air isn't being circulated to cool it? Sorry. I know that's a whole lot of choices but being an electrician, you may want to hopscotch some connections to see if it won't help pinpoint something. Low amp draw? High amp draw? Bad voltages? Hope something here can turn over a leaf.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Yes. I would be nervous a bit too. You don't have bees nest in there do ya? Not real sure on this one but do think it's something electrical and thus a reason to be concerned. Best I can say is to try to pinpoint the noise. However, if you can seem to find it or see it as an easy fix, often the repair bill and the cost of a new unit are quite similar.

    • profile image

      Khan Flo Mah 2 years ago from Chicago, Illinois

      Ok, Im an electrician. So I'm not going to exclude a vital part. Therefore there will be no need to add into the mix, anything I didn't say. Something I notice on every help board.

      The fan would run, then stop. The fan motor will then grow hot. I hear the compressor hum, then stop. Hum then stop. I don't let that situation run. I disconnect the unit's power at the shut off so nothing burns out. I had a bad contact already, and since I had this additional problem, I replaced it, the fan motor, and cap. But the issue remains. So this is what I have at this point. A new Fan motor, Cap, and contact. when I put the new motor in? ON IT CAME!!! 15 or so minutes later? Off and the same situation. I go Outside and the motor is heating up. So I'm thinking, a heating up motor is a motor that wants to come on but isn't. I Got the parts from a HVAC shop. If the new cap was bad out the box, why would it start, then stop? Right now, If I engaged the power, it would spin without help. Then Stop. and start warming. I could take a stick and spin it. It will run...for about 10 minutes, or maybe its less...then stop. While it's running, that Hum from the compressor happens. So the final question is, If the compressor is hung up and not engaging, will the fan start, and stop? This is an older model. this is not efficient any of that. Of course the fan spins freely, and the unit isn't filled with dirt. no "start assist" device. Goodman makes it.

    • profile image

      hotsauce1183 2 years ago

      My Carrier 24 kBTU window ac buzzes after being turned off for a while, usually overnight. I switch it off the night before and the next day it will just start buzzing spontaneously sometime in the late morning or early afternoon. The solution is to unplug it for a second or push the start button. But it worries me that if no one is home and this starts buzzing it might overheat or, worse, cause a fire. Any suggestions?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Does the unit have a variable fan? This is an efficiency feature of some a/c's. It won't run until the compressor warms up to a point where it asks it to.

    • profile image

      charles 2 years ago

      My unit outside will come on sometime and the fan runs then other times I have to use a stick to turn the fan to get it going I replaced the capacitor and still after it gets cool in my house and shuts off and then when it goes to kick back on the outside unit fan don't come on and I have to play with it for it to come back on what would cause this

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Freezing over is usually caused by low refrigerant or restriction in the lines or bad airflow over the coil. Since it's a window unit, check to be sure the coil isn't covered by fuzzies, dust or dirt. Outside of that, it's not a do it yourself thing and isn't likely work having repairs done when compared to buying new.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Stephen - You may have a bad motor. If the compressor is running and the indoor fan is running, you visibly checked the capacitor too and the fuses and breaker are okay...I'm thinking motor.

    • Traunt53 profile image

      Traunt53 2 years ago from NC

      Cre8tor, little update on previous post. I don't want to jinx myself but it must have just been a blip for a moment because it's been perfect ever since. I was quoted $300 for parts/labor and $100 just to show up from a guy and the capacitor was only $22 and I learned how to do something! Thanks again man!

    • profile image

      Claude 2 years ago

      I have a GE window A.C. which after a few months of operation began to

      freeze over after a period of running. Could this be the Temperature

      Control Thermostat or the Capillary Tube Assembly?

      Thanks for your help.

      Claude

    • profile image

      Dustin 2 years ago

      I noticed my outside fan will not shut off.. I turned the a/c off at the thermostat and also at the on/off switch at the unit in the basement. Only way to get the fan to shut off was by pulling the disconnect at the outside unit. I also notice frost/ice build up on the plumbing from the outside unit going into the house. After researching this I found that these were symptoms of a bad contactor. Does this seem accurate? Also, what drew my attention to this was noticing a decline in the amount of air coming from my registers. 2 questions..1, Could the lack of air coming out be from the ice/frost build up caused from the fan outside continuously running due to a bad contactor.. And if so, once thawed out and the installation on a new contactor, will the airflow go back to normal? And 2, when replacing the contactor, does pulling the fuse at the disconnect alone make this safe to do, or do I also need to shut off power at the breaker. Thank you.

    • profile image

      Stephen 2 years ago

      It wasn't the fuses or the breaker, any other thoughts on what the issue may be?

    • profile image

      Prettygrannie 2 years ago

      I just discovered your page after being charged over $300 to replace a capacitor. I'm thrilled that the a/c is working but feel totally screwed on the cost. Thank you for repair directions $300 will never happen again.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Check fuses and breaker.

    • profile image

      Stephen 2 years ago

      I get the humming sound but, the fan will only spin from time to time. When I push the fan with a stick, I only get 1 revolution from it.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      ike - It could be a lot of things but to check for yourself some more simple/common items....check the fuses outside, the breaker inside and the thermostat. Of course check the capacitor too. It can be bad and still not hum if there's no call for a/c. I have other Hubs that may help assist you in checking these items. Hope you find it's something easy to handle for yourself. Thanks for reading.

    • profile image

      ike 2 years ago

      My inside unit is on but my outside unit is not and I don't hear a humming noise. What could it be?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      rebalspirit - It sounds like the capacitor.

    • profile image

      rebalspirit 2 years ago

      What if the compressor does not hum but the motor fan runs? We have replaced the thermostat, the fuse on the inside unit (MH), but the problem remains. The inside blower works, but when jumping the thermostat, the outside unit does not run, does not hum. At the outside condenser, when jumped, the motor fan does run, but the compressor does not hum. May it still be the condenser, or is the whole unit in need of replacement?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Well, it sounds like there may be an underlying problem causing the capacitor to blow. If it worked with the new capacitor, which everything sounds like it was bad and that it did, you weren't out anything by replacing it however if there is another problem, perhaps you should have a tech see what is making that happen. You wouldn't of course know if there was another problem if the cap was bad because it wouldn't have ran for you to find it....the lovely world of HVAC. I'm sorry how this is going but you may want to call in a pro since other issues can be harder to diagnose and require a lot of specialty tools to fix. Not to mention if it was hard to get a capacitor, you'll have a real hard time finding the larger parts.

    • Traunt53 profile image

      Traunt53 2 years ago from NC

      Cre8tor. I tried to edit my last post before the 5 minutes was up but just missed it. The air was blowing out hot so I shut it off and it kept blowing hot air for about 3 minutes then shut down. I gave it about 10 minutes on off then turned it back on. When I turned it back on at 74 it was blowing hot air out at first, so I ran outside to look at the unit and it appeared to be fine (fan turning, sounded normal, etc.) so I ran back inside and was going to just shut it down while I do research but the air was cooler than before and seemed to be OK again. So I shut it off because I am concerned something bad is going on here. Any thoughts on what could be going on here? The only difference in the capacitor vs my old one was the old one said +/-6 and this one is +/-5 but every other number, degree, uf, all the exact same and it was perfect for 48 hours....

    • Traunt53 profile image

      Traunt53 2 years ago from NC

      This is pretty embarrassing but it's broke again. Everything was fine until about 15 minutes ago. I walked by a vent and it was pumping hot air again and I only had it at 74 degrees. I turned it off and still pumping hot air. I could cry...

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      LOL. Thanks Traunt53. Glad I could help. Yes. Suppliers don't like to sell to homeowners and this type of thing isn't a "box store" item. Online is usually easiest. A tip for getting it from a supplier is being direct. "Hello. I need a 45/5 dual capacitor. Do you have one in stock and when can I pick it up." Play the part ya know. Sounds silly but the more you sound "pro" the less likely they ask questions. If they ask for acct, tell em "this will be a cash ticket. It's for my personal use." If they ask again then you have to come clean but they may be a bit more inclined to help since you come off knowledgeable. Lastly, yes. It takes awhile to cool because it has to dehumidify again before the coolness is really felt. A/C is really just a big dehumidifier and when you're down for a few days, humidity sets in quick. Thanks for the feedback and sorry for the book.

    • Traunt53 profile image

      Traunt53 2 years ago from NC

      Cre8tor thank you SO much!! It worked!!! I called 29 stores after realizing lowes did not carry these. Most of the stores said they wouldn't sell to me because I am not a contractor or do not have an hvac license. I finally found a place and they had a perfect match. I made the switch and after a few hours it was noticeable. I fixed it at 4:30 on a hot day so it took a while to notice any cold air change but it's working perfectly now. The part cost me $24. Thank you so much man! I feel proud, and always love saving money. Doesn't hurt when I can make the wife think her man can do some things around the house either ;)

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Hi Traunt53- note below comments, the stick is a "diagnostic tool" not a fix. This just helps confirm the cap is bad. The cap also runs the compressor in many cases so just because the fan took off (confirming it's ok but the cap is not) doesn't mean the compressor is running and this no cold air. Replace the capacitor and I'm pretty sure you'll have cold air.

    • Traunt53 profile image

      Traunt53 2 years ago from NC

      Nolan,

      I think I had the same thing you had happen. How long did it take for the cold air to kick in? I went through all the steps (Boy was it hard to find a capacitor!) Anyway, I was very proud of myself and thankful for this site but it's been running for an hour now and looks great outside but the air isn't as cold as the air coming out of my downstairs AC so I can't tell if it worked or not. It is 4:30 on a hot day so I will give some more time, but I would feel better if someone on here said it doesn't immediately let out super cold air... Any info/advice?

    • Traunt53 profile image

      Traunt53 2 years ago from NC

      Follow up to my post. It has now been about an hour and no cold air. I went out to check and see if the fan was still going and it was stopped again. I used a stick and got it started again and ran in to see if cold air was blowing while the fan was moving and the air was still normal room temp. Then I went back out and the fan was stopped again. I repeated the stick action and watched the fan for about 10 minutes and it kept going but eventually stopped and no cold air ever made its way out...

    • Traunt53 profile image

      Traunt53 2 years ago from NC

      I was very pleased to find this post. Last night my upstairs was very hot and I quickly noticed that the air was flowing but not cold at all. Downstairs was fine. I turned it off for the night and tried again this morning. Only hot forced air. After reading this post, I went out with a stick and sure enough, the fan took off like you said. I was hoping this fixed the problem for the time being and I could follow your instructions from there on a replacement and cleaning but the air is still not cold. I waited about 30 minutes and still not cold but it is flowing and the fan is now running. Any advice on what to do next?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      You're welcome sweatinit. Thank you for the feedback and follow up!

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      I would need more to go on to give you a useful answer.

    • profile image

      sweatinit 2 years ago

      It was a fuse. Thanks Cre8tor!

    • profile image

      Jerome 2 years ago

      The fan is throwing water from the side of the AC what shoos I do

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Thanks Nolan! It's great to get feedback from those who've tried this and hear how it went. Have a great vacation! Just got back from one myself.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Call a tech for this. Something has shorted out or is trying to draw way too many amps so you should probably leave it be and have it looked at.

    • profile image

      Nolan (Now staying cool in KY) 2 years ago

      Replacing the capacitor did the trick. Thanks for the tips you saved me a lot of money that I can now use on vacation. I have your page marked as a favorite and have been reading it diligently so I might save more money in the future. I will be sure to recommend your site to friends and family who may be experiencing HVAC problems in the future.

    • profile image

      ron 2 years ago

      Hi my ac unit keeps kicking the fuse off it was working now it wont come on i hear a click in the fuse box every time i turn on the ac what do i do about this?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Well, there is a lot it could be but I'm thinking wiring....check your low voltage from the stat to the furnace and the furnace to the outdoor condenser. Stat to furnace should be R to R, W(1) to W(1), Y to Y and G to G. From the furnace to the condenser should be Red to Yellow on the furnace and White to C on the furnace. The red and white at the condenser do not matter which is which. (these usually get wire nutted to a brown and blue wire hanging loose inside the condenser) Be sure the power from the panel to the unit is wired for 220/240V and that the disconnect is wired proper as far as the line and load. (line is from the panel and load is from the disconnect to the condenser.) I hope this helps.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Jacks - Sounds like a refrigerant or compressor problem. Neither are "do it yourself" type of repairs. Check for frost on the lines to be sure there's not a blockage at the filter or coil but it doesn't sound like that's the case.

    • profile image

      Jacks 2 years ago

      Unit appears to be running but temp set at 78° but will only come down to about 85°

      No condensation on the line on unit , barely cold to touch ......now what?

    • profile image

      michael 2 years ago

      I installed a split unit ac system. Wired and all but only hearing clicking from the outside unit. The inside units don't come on at all. The fan in the out side unit do not spin. Please help desperate

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      It may have blown fuses outside or tripped a breaker. If the furnace fan is running, it seems it's calling for a/c but something is not giving the outside power. You may have a bad contractor. If the furnace sends the 24v outside, often you can hear the hum of the 24v coil on the contractor. If not, that could be it. I have other hubs that may help locate these parts and how to check them.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Check the fuses. Maybe you're getting 24v but not 220v. Also the breaker, be sure it didn't trip. The motor spins freely but does it keep spinning? If not, it sounds like maybe there's a power issue wit the hi voltage.

    • profile image

      sweatinit 2 years ago

      The capacitor on my Carrier heat pump exploded. I was there when it happened. I replaced the capacitor (run/start type) 35/5/370 with a 35/5/440. The people at the HVAC store said it was ok to go from 370 to 440. Tried to restart AC, just a hum from fan motor. Next, I replaced fan motor. Still just a hum. It won't start if I help it along with a turn from a stick, but it does spin freely. I wonder if a wire or a relay got burnt up when the capacitor exploded. Any ideas?

    • profile image

      Jodi 2 years ago

      My ac is on but the fan is not spinning and there is no humming noise coming from the unit. Its quiet. I can hear the fan running and pushing air thru the vents but its ambient temp air. Any ideas?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Still is capacitor. It runs the fan and compressor. Pushing it with a stick is just a diagnostic method, not a fix.

    • profile image

      Jwayne1 2 years ago

      My outside A/c unit will not blow out cold air all of a sudden, fan not spinning. I can use a stick and push the fan and it will spin like it should but still no cold air? Anyone have an idea?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      This is tough online but my first though is if the hum is that audible, perhaps the fan motor is locked up. If so, it would need replaced. Maybe circuit board too since there's a couple weird things here and circuit boards can cause illogical behavior. Might want a repairman on this.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      I think you're right on Nolan accept that perhaps the "H" (compressor) side of the capacitor is shot too and it's not running. Since the "cap" is so cheap and seemingly needs done, do the repair and see what happens. Check the filter and if you have animals, make sure your getting good airflow from the vents or just above the coil...making sure that dust and animal hair isn't blocking the coil. These things may take a few minutes but they're easy and free. If they don't work, you're not out anything and then call the repair guy. You may be short/out of refrigerant and a "pro" must deal with that. Consider though if you have a leak (they should repair it) that R22 is and will continue to cost a fortune...assuming your unit is an R22 unit...it may be time to consider replacement if there is a refrigerant problem. Thanks for reading and I have other hubs that may help with my suggestions.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Fritz - I don't suggest varying the microfarads on the capacitor. You can increase voltage capacity but not mf. MARS makes one I know off the top of my head. As for the wire, it looks to me like whoever put it in put one in the wrong spot, turned it on QUICKLY realizing what they'd done...all those wires are black where the ground is usually green...easily noticable. It's even bare copper sometimes but BLACK??? I'd be fired for using all black wires and not wrapping them with colored tape at LEAST. Hope this helps.

    • profile image

      Tahani 2 years ago

      Ok so my furnace box in the laundry room is humming on and off yet there is no heat nor ac coming from any of the vents. The ac unit outside does not spin as well. The inside unit will hum maybe four times per day as if it is working normally. The filter has been changed. I just don't know what to do. Should I just call a repairman? I'm confused on what is wrong because there is no heat/cool air.................

    • profile image

      Nolan 2 years ago

      My AC was not blowing cool air so I went outside and the fan was not turning. Got the fan turning using a stick, but after about 45 minutes the air coming from the vents is still not cool. If I replace the capacitor will this also give me back cool air or do I have another problem other than just the capacitor. Thanks

    • profile image

      Fritz 2 years ago

      Thanks for this post, Cre8tor. My outside unit seems to have a simple disconnect handle (no fuses), but I did notice this bare coiled steel wire that was screwed to the center of the box that looked like the tip may have been burnt http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a417/fritzfry/... . If that's not it, I'm going to try to replace the dual capacitor...mine is 45+5, 440, and I can't seem to find that same type. Is it safe at all to go with 40+5, 440? Thanks!!

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Dave - Rust doesn't mean it's bad and no, it has nothing to do with the freon. It helps start the outdoor fan and helps to run the compressor.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Mike - The indoor unit is probably still calling for A/C to come on. It is linked to a different breaker and therefore the stat is still asking the indoor unit to tell the outdoor unit to run. The humming is likely the contactor being pulled in by the 24v coming from the indoor unit. It will probably stop if you shut it off at the stat.

    • profile image

      dave 2 years ago

      If the capacitor is rust colored should I assume it needs to be replaced? The fan works just fine. Does the capacitor do anything other than start the fan. Does it do anything for the freon?

    • profile image

      MikeCanton 2 years ago

      Fan runs on the exterior Trane a/c unit, but not the condenser (pipes are warm). Pulled exterior fuse, turned off at circuit breaker, but unit continues to buzz??? Does it take time for excess built up electrical to dissipate in the unit?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Well I would certainly say they didn't do you any favors since he was there for another purpose anyway. Routinely, I would say if he came just for that, no but if he's there performing another task and then adds the hard start while there, typically companies are a bit more price friendly than that. All that being said, I wouldn't say ripped off, they would mark up parts a bit and charge a few bucks labor but again, they didn't give you ANY slack on the fact that they were already there. HVAC work is expensive though and a lot of that is a result of rising fuel costs, materials going through the roof for the same reason as well as anything made of metal becoming more and more and then the EPA has set some very strict standards on A/C work so....in short, it's not just the companies that are being greedy. This market has been hit extremely hard from all angles and of course the company isn't going to eat these costs if they want to stay in business. Hopefully this helps you understand a bit more but again, the company I work for would have been a bit more friendly seeing as our guy was already there.

    • profile image

      OR Owner 2 years ago

      We had our a/c tuned up for the season today. We have used the same company for several years but had a different technician today.

      He suggested adding a hard start capacitor to the 5 ton unit to extend it's life and I agreed. the cost was $246 and took less than a minute. Now I see prices for the units one line that are well under $100 and see some companies that quote installed costs as $100 - $300.

      Were we ripped off?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Hubert - It could be. Capacitors are known in some cases to make an audible noise. Those with outdoor units may not notice this but if you have a window unit in a living space, it's possible. If it's not broke, don't fix it however if it's annoying you like it might me, you may want to look at a nicer, new unit. They have some with insulated cabinets which dampen such sounds.

    • profile image

      Hubert Goins 2 years ago

      I've got a 1600btu window a/c that runs fine but when I turn the power off there is a humming sound that runs for a few minutes and stops a minute or two and starts again. I have to unplug it to get it to stop. Could it be my capacitor ?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Thank you for the kind comment and as for that attic unit, It's not the capacitor. It wouldn't reset. Shutting down is the default of many things to avoid further damage. It could be a motor overload meaning that it's overheating in which case it's often a dirty coil or filter or perhaps the motor itself is going out. Always start simple though and hope it's just a cleaning.

    • profile image

      shane 2 years ago

      My indoor unit hums but won't kick on inside. If I go into the attic and unplug it then plug it back in it comes on for a bit then turns back off. Is this the capacitor? If not what could it be?

    • profile image

      Jerry Branson 2 years ago

      Very helpful! Thanks!

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      amanda - The system needs to be isolated (indoor from outdoor) and pressure tested to determine where the leak is. If the system is empty, nitrogen is typically what's used for this test. Other than that, I would say perhaps coil cleaning or filter could be the issue but that's all really if everything else is running accordingly. (NOTE: They should be pressure testing and repairing leaks in the system before a recharge. That's EPA law.)

    • profile image

      amanda 2 years ago

      My fan in the furnace will come on, the fan and compressor in the outside unit will turn on but I just get warm air blowing out of the vents. Its an older AC unit but I recharged my system last year and added "stop leak" thinking that I was leaking freon but I'm back to square one now. My furnace was replaced completely 3 years ago so I don't think the problem is with the indoor part. How do I test if the outdoor unit is leaking for sure or what else the problem could be?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Rob - Do you have an ambient control (heat pump maybe)? It might be an efficiency thing that shuts the fan off when it's running at a safe temp and turn it on when it needs to cool down. Or...perhaps the motor is overheating and tripping the overload in which case the condensor needs cleaned or the motor is going. This is just my initial thoughts and assumes that humming you hear is the compressor still running.

      Christina - First thought...check the stat wiring for shorts. Perhaps something has worked loose in the stat or at the unit. (red, white, green, yellow and blue skinny wires) Otherwise, it stumps me if the cold air is blowing cold and the fan by itself is running constantly and blowing hot air. My gut says "short" and there's a call for heat and cool together. Is A/C kicking back on quickly as a result of the warm air?

    • profile image

      Christina 2 years ago

      Inside fan will not stop running. It is set on auto. When the air kicks off the fan keeps running and then blows hot air. Any ideas what it could be?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Jim - I didn't share the link but a few things...check the specs on yours now...the one you shared is a 40A where commonly they are 30A. I know it's probably a generic picture but why not the real one??? If that's really it, the body certainly doesn't look at sturdy as those I prefer to use nor do a couple of the connections. That said, it doesn't mean it won't work...it's a pretty simplistic part however for how long and at what inconvenience will it be when it breaks down again because the cheap contacts keep gumming up. I see it says it's UL listed however why not show the rating sticker in the pic? That's important to me when dealing with 240V and the possibility of a short that could do real damage to the system. Just food for thought. I would say if you can find one for $7, find one for $10 that provides a bit more confidence in it's ad.

    • profile image

      Rob 2 years ago

      On mine, the fan comes on for 2 - 3 minutes, then shuts off. The unit keeps buzzing, which is the normal sound.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      jim - Yes. I would say either it's used or unlisted (certified...never safety tested...UL...ETL). I work for an HVAC company as a project manager and source most parts for us...I could not buy a 30 amp, 2 pole, 24vac for that price. Let's just say if I were in your shoes, I wouldn't pay more than $50 or less than $20.

    • profile image

      jim 2 years ago

      The contactor on my condenser unit needs to be replaced. A contactor from the manufacturer costs $140. I've found one on Amazon for $7. It strikes me there must be a difference. What's the difference and how important is it?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Grace - I love the attitude! That's why I provided step by step...you can decide what you want to try and what you're not comfortable with. The other is simply that if you see it's likely the capacitor but aren't comfortable doing it yourself, you will at least not be easily taken advantage of and be sold a new compressor! Have a great day!

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Clay - If you've gone this far and other medium voltage things are running, you may want to have a tech out. You don't want to keep throwing parts at it and assuming everything is wired properly, the capacitor is good...you have an issue that I cannot resolve remotely. I'm sorry and wish I could help more.

    • profile image

      clay anderson 2 years ago

      i just replaced my fan motor after trying the "stick" method with no results, so after replacing the old 3 wire motor with a new 5 wire oem replacement motor the fan still doesn't start spinning when everything is turned on. the capacitor isn't buldged. need answers please

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Thank you very much Susie! I hope so too!

    • profile image

      susie 2 years ago

      yes, exactly,, you are awesome, thank you so much, this has been very stressful, loved reading your blog, and very, VERY helpful, hopefully soon we will be off to getting it fixed! :) God Bless!

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Perhaps the capacitor on the indoor blower is bad. Unfortunately, there are a lot of variables here when the inside and outside aren't communicating properly. The indoor board could be faulty which could make all kinds of weird things happen.

    • profile image

      davidaustin000 2 years ago

      yes, i replaced the capacitor this morning but did not resolve the issue. When I turn on the fan motor it runs and blows air but when i turn on the A/C it stops running. The fan/blower blades turn freely and motor not making any loud noises. Outside unit appears to be running fine but for some reason inside blower will not start or stay engaged.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      davidaustinooo - Did you try the steps in this article?

    • profile image

      davidaustin000 2 years ago

      My AC unit stopped working today. It sounds like the blower motor is trying to engage but will never start. I've done a great deal of reading this afternoon but still not sure where to begin. Can you offer some suggestions to narrow down the problem? I turned the unit off and then came back about 15 minutes later with the same result. I have not turned it back on as did not want to cause further damage.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Arturo - I'm thinking you may have blew a fuse but there is a lot of missing information in your comment so I cannot say for sure.

    • profile image

      Arturo 2 years ago

      My ac was driping water and i drain the

      But before i shut the pawer out side and when i finish put back on diez not do anything the airhendleris working

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Karlyn - That's a lot to cover w a lot of ???? Because I'm very unsure of what you have there and it's a potentially dangerous situation, I suggest that you call a technician. It doesn't sound like a simpler problem. Thank you for commenting and feel free to provide more information.

    • profile image

      Karlyn 2 years ago

      Air conditioner hasn't turned on for almost 2 yrs. Today I powered controller & went outside to listen for loud fans/hum.Inside fan was going (barely any output floe & warm, humid air), but just buzzing/hum from outside unit...

      Looked around & noticed a long, black, rubber cylinder laying a few inches from unit--kinda looked like a black condom half covering a rubber cylinder.

      Problem is, it's unattached from any colored wires--it does have a thin insulated dark grey wire coming out of bottom rim & 2 flat connectors on bottom. How do i deal w reconnecting w/o knowing correct color placement?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      If you've followed this article and it wasn't the problem then you should likely shut it down and have a technician look at it.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      The coil is copper or aluminum tubing covered by aluminum fins.

    • profile image

      Ian 2 years ago

      I have a portable ac and the compressor is not coming on. Where will i find the coil

    • profile image

      mike 2 years ago

      my ac worked one day the next day it was making a loud humming noise and the fan was working but now it is just humming and the fan is no longer spinning we pushed the blade with a stick but no spin it is doing a quite hum can you advise me

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Vvitta - If the leak is visible in the drain, then yes. Otherwise, you're looking at opening up the duct work to see inside where the coil is. If it's in there then either the drain port is clogged or the pan is cracked. A cracked pan is not usually a viable option to repair unless it's disconnected from the system or just replaced and that must be done by a professional.

    • Vvitta profile image

      Kalai 2 years ago from Petaling Jaya, Malaysia

      what do you when your air con leaks inside. Can i solve the problem myself.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Alyssa - It's likely you here the compressor running and not the fan. (It's much more noticeable without the fan running.) You could have 2 separate capacitors and one be out. You may have a bad fan motor that's locked up but still trying to run. The thing is, a lot can depend on the age of the unit. Newer units are typically built to shut down certain things if other things fail to protect them. Older units not so much. I would have a tech come out to look at this if you have checked the capacitor already.

    • profile image

      Alyssa 2 years ago

      My a/c just stopped working. As soon as I put the unit on thru the thermostat, i hear a quiet humming sound. When i put the unit on, the blade wont even run but i hear an even louder humming sound. We tried giving the blade a push but it did not work. What could this be?

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      I recently deleted a comment suggesting that this article was too dangerous to post because I don't agree. On second thought, I decided to address that comment here. I think people are capable of performing tasks along these lines and feel I've given very clear instruction. I also have addressed the fact that there are dangers involved and how to avoid them. That said, let me reiterate the fact that you must be cautious when performing this task and must decide for yourself if it's something you are comfortable with doing.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      As humidity levels rise and fall, so will the amount of condensation your unit puts out. It is not abnormal that it's dripping unless it's not sending the water where it should. The loudness of the drip is something I cannot diagnose from here however again it's not abnormal that it's off an on again. Sorry. (At least you're still cool :-)

    • Vvitta profile image

      Kalai 2 years ago from Petaling Jaya, Malaysia

      I has a unit that has gone bonkers. It might as well be possessed. It leaks today and is dry tomorrow. I want to call in the maintenance guy to check it there is anything blocked but the system works fine when i want to do so. And then, just when i thought everything is sorted out and snuggle for a good night's sleep, I hear the dreaded ... drip, drip, drip!

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Hi Cassie. If capacitors are continuously popping, you likely have a hidden issue. It sounds like this is the problem and as a temporary fix, you can replace it again cheaply however you'll want to have someone look into the underlying problem and that can be difficult to diagnose if you replace it now. (It's harder to diagnose a problem if the unit is operable.) A technician will likely check for anomalies in voltage/amperage to discover what is causing your repetitive issue. That said, it does sound like the immediate problem is the capacitor again.

    • profile image

      cassie 2 years ago

      Inside is blowing hot air outside unit is not on I do hear a quiet buzzing, we replaced the capacitor last year, but it does not seem to be swollen again please help

    • profile image

      Rebecca 2 years ago

      I don't really want to do much not knowing much about it so i will let yall know what the ppl say Thursday.but i can say no ice on anything: )

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Rebecca - I would still check the capacitor. You may have 2. One for the compressor and one for the fan. Also check for "frosted" or "icing" on the copper lines. This could mean your filter is blocked or your coil is plugged or...you may have leaked out the refrigerant. If it's low, it could ice. Let's hope it's not gone. Then there would be no icing and no way for you personally to fix. Lastly the compressor could be shot in which case you may be better off to replace the whole A/C system. Fingers crossed it's the capacitor or filter. Beyond that, you will have to break down and call a technician. Thank you for reading and I hope this helps. I do hope you'll find it's something simple.

    • profile image

      rebecca 2 years ago

      The fan runs inside and out but no cold plz help . I cleaned everything and still no cold just fan

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Taylor - It's likely the 24v coil under the contactor. When the stat tells the furnace to tell the a/c to come on...24v are sent to this coil to create the magnetism to pull in that 220v contactor. This is a common failure. Since the inside fan is running, it seems that the stat and furnace are receiving and reacting properly to the calls for cooling. Sometimes the only way you'll be able to purchase the coil is to buy the whole contactor unit. This is a rather simple repair so long as you're sure the 220v power is off and that everything is reconnected properly. Draw yourself a simple schematic to refer to when installing the new part. I hope this helps and hope to hear back on your results.

    • profile image

      Taylor 2 years ago

      I have an ac unit that inside fan come on but outside unit is dead,no humming, unless I push on contact and make fan/condenser turn on...what is this issue??? If press and hold down contact it blows cold inside but as soon as I release it turns off fan and the condenser... :-\ please help!!

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 2 years ago from Ohio

      Michelle - If the fan in the house is running...for sure...and the fan AND compressor are both running outside in the condenser then I would say the only way you are not getting air from the registers is that your coil is badly clogged. Icing or frost on the coil, lineset, and/or plenum should be visible and would confirm that either the filter is completely clogged or the coil itself is clogged with dust and/or fur. Check your filter. If it is good then you'll either want to clean the coil yourself or have a professional do it for you. Some are easier than others so it will depend greatly on your set up if it's something you can tackle yourself. Thank you for reading and commenting. I hope this will help.

    • profile image

      michelle 2 years ago

      Please help!!! The fan is turning on and I can hear the unit on but no air whatsoever $6 is coming out. Does any one know what it could be

    • BEEZKNEEZ profile image

      BEEZKNEEZ 3 years ago

      Thanks for this hub! I have been having problems with my air conditioning unit. I had to fix a few things and adjust the capacitor. Thanks for the help! Voted up!

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 4 years ago from Ohio

      Yes. Please do. The mF are not to be tinkered with but I completely understand in a pinch. I strongly suggest replacing with correct one asap though. I'm glad you're not sweating to death though. Thanks for reading!

    • profile image

      Ben San Diego 4 years ago

      My dual run capacitor went south Friday afternoon in one of the hottest and humid days in San Diego. Symptoms -- obviously no cooling. Outdoor unit fan was humming. Quickly isolated the problem to the capacitor -- check with multimeter to verify it was faulty.

      No electrical supply stores open after Friday 5PM until Monday morning. The cap was a 70/7.5 uf unit. Fortunately, saw an air conditioning repair truck in the local area. I was able to purchase a cap from him. The values of the purchased cap were 50/5 uf. Put that in the outdoor unit and got the system back up and running. Will pick up correct value cap on Monday.

    • Cre8tor profile image
      Author

      Daniel Robbins 4 years ago from Ohio

      Thanks Marcy. I think they should make special capacitors for Texas heat! Maybe they do???

    • Marcy Goodfleisch profile image

      Marcy Goodfleisch 4 years ago from Planet Earth

      This is very timely for me - I'm in Texas, it's already above 90 degrees every day, and my AC is nearly 20 years old. Borrowed time here. Thanks for this excellent and detailed information - I will keep this handy for future use. I hope I don't need it, but I think the odds are likely I will!

      Voted up and up!

    Click to Rate This Article