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Why Won't My Dryer Make Heat?

Updated on January 16, 2015

Joined: 9 years agoFollowers: 2Articles: 4

So, your clothes dryer won't produce heat? There are a number of possible causes of this problem. The first thing we must determine is the type of dryer you have. There are only two types: gas or electric.

Troubleshooting Broken Dryer Issues
Troubleshooting Broken Dryer Issues

Warning: Before You Begin

Before attempting to repair any appliance:

  1. Turn off (unplug or kill the circuit to) electrical power, and
  2. Shut off gas supply (if applicable).

If you don't know how to do this, visit my article about safely shutting on and off gas and electricity.

Shut Off All the Power Before You Begin
Shut Off All the Power Before You Begin

Step 1: Checking Power

If your dryer is electric, meaning it uses electricity instead of flame to produce heat, step one is to verify that the breaker to the dryer's electrical circuit is fully on. Since electric dryers require 240 volts to run, their circuit is run through a dual breaker switch. Sometimes only half of the breaker switch will be off, or will have failed, which may result in a supply of only enough power to make your dryer tumble but not enough for it to produce heat. Pop the breaker to your dryer off and on again and then see if the dryer will now produce heat. If it does, then have the breaker replaced. If it doesn't, you can verify that the dryer outlet is fully powered by testing it with a voltmeter. If the electric outlet is fully powered, then the problem definitely rests within the dryer.

If your dryer runs on gas, we will assume there are no kinks or stoppages in the line and the problem is in the dryer itself, although if you follow all the rest of the steps and still can't find the solution, you might investigate this as a source of the problem.

A Continuity Tester
A Continuity Tester

Step 2: Checking the Dryer's Internal Workings

Let's next deal with the failure common to both types (gas and electric dryers). You will need a continuity tester for this process. Here are directions for how to use a continuity tester.

After you have disconnected the power or shut off the gas, you will want to access the internal workings of your dryer. Directions for achieving access, specific to your brand, can be found in your owner's manual. If you don't have one, you might try Google or searching YouTube to see if anyone has uploaded instructions for your particular make or model.

Most dryers have a thermal fuse located in the exhaust path. Depending on your dryer, the fuse will be found toward the front or the rear of your unit. Generally, if there is a removable back on the dryer, then that is where you will find the fuse.

The most commons thermal fuses you might find are shown in the illustration below. They are each roughly 1" in size. You will notice that the contact points are easily spotted for a continuity test.

In older units and in some electrically-heated units, at various points along the heater assembly you will find a series of thermal fuses that look like small tin cans. These will also need to be continuity tested before you can rule out thermal fuses as your problem.

If any of the thermal fuses fails the continuity test, then it needs to be replaced.

What Your Thermal Fuse Might Look Like
What Your Thermal Fuse Might Look Like

Electric Dryers: Heating Element

After making sure your thermal fuse(s) is/are good, it is time to move on to the next most likely possibility: the heating element. This element is comprised of metal coils supported on a framework with two contact points where wires are connected to the rest of the dryer. A break in this coil will stop the dryer from being able to create heat. Test the two contacts for continuity with a continuity tester. If they fail, then you need a new heating element.

If both the thermal fuse and the element show continuity, it is time to call a professional to service your electric dryer.

Typical Dryer Heat Element
Typical Dryer Heat Element

Gas Dryers: How They Heat

Gas dryers use a burner system to create heat. This system has a number of parts that tend to fail over time: Some you can test but some you must simply read the signs and make a good guess to replace or not to replace the part.

Not all of these parts can be tested with a simple continuity tester. An ohm meter is now required to find your problem part. Here are directions for how to use an ohm meter.

The parts prone to failure in your burner assembly are:

  • Igniter
  • Coils
  • Flame sensor

A burner operates in a fairly simple way. Once the motor is turning, centrifugal force closes the motor switch, allowing the electricity to reach the flame sensor. The flame sensor allows the electricity to reach the igniter, allowing it to heat up to a temperature high enough to ignite natural gas. Once the igniter is hot enough, the flame sensor breaks the igniter circuit, allowing the electricity to run through the coils that open the gas valve. Gas then flows out past the igniter and catches fire. The heat is drawn into the airflow within the dryer.

Internal Workings of a Gas Dryer: An Entire Burner Assembly
Internal Workings of a Gas Dryer: An Entire Burner Assembly

Troubleshooting Gas Dryers

Observation is key to troubleshooting a gas dryer. Does your dryer get hot at the beginning of the run but finish cold? Does it never heat at all? Do you hear a chattering sound at times?

If your dryer is hot at the beginning of the run but finishes cold, then it is likely you have bad coils. As coils age, they lose the ability to hold the gas valves open. Sometimes this will cause the valves to open and shut rapidly, resulting in a chattering sound. Unfortunately, you can't test the coils to verify the failure, so replacing them is a decision you make based on the above observations.

If the dryer never heats, then there are more items to check and test. The first item is the igniter. There is a molex (clear plastic) connector attaching the igniter to the burner circuit: Disconnect this and place your ohm meter probes onto the two contacts on the igniter side of the connector. The meter should read under 100 ohms of resistance. Any reading above this value means that the igniter needs replacing.

If the igniter passes your test, then you need to test continuity on the flame sensor. You should have continuity between the two contacts. If not, then you need to replace the flame sensor.

If all of the above pass their tests, you need to make certain that there isn't a build-up of dryer lint around the burner. Sometimes, lint will impede the gas flow, preventing the unit from igniting.

If none of these things help, then it is time to call in a professional.


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    • kevindouglas09 8 years ago


      I like your hub. Thanks.

    • Stu 8 years ago

      Thanks for a clear, logical progression of possibilities-very clear and useful-I was able to go through the steps and figure out that I needed a new heating element.

    • Beav 8 years ago

      The word "Here" for ignitor replacement is not linked. We have a gas dryer that's not heating. The ignitor never heats up (ie doesn't glow) when turning on the dryer and observing through the view-port. Would something else cause this other than a faulty ignitor?

    • Appliance Doc profile image

      Appliance Doc 8 years ago from Michigan

      Sorry for the delayed response. In most instances, the igniter is bad. On rare occasions the switch on the motor that verifies that it is spinning will go bad, which cuts out the heating circuit. Generally that would mean replacing the motor.

      No matter what, though, you will need to get in there and start testing for continuity. Best bet is you will find that the igniter is bad or, possibly, the flame sensor.

      Good luck.

    • Appliance Doc profile image

      Appliance Doc 8 years ago from Michigan

      Oh... you distracted me from the simplest possibility... the thermal fuse.

    • Joy skurka 7 years ago

      Thank you for you input on how to check what's not working on a gas dryer. It would have been more useful if your links to replace the igniter and flame sensor were active. You cannot click 'here' to open link. Just an fyi.

    • Appliance Doc profile image

      Appliance Doc 7 years ago from Michigan

      Well, the links aren't active because the pages do not yet exist. I started this project while recovering from an illness. It is now, and has for a long while, suffered due to my continued health. :-0)

    • John C. 7 years ago

      I hope you're over what was ailing you.By the sounds of it,you may have been quite ill. I'm happy for your return and hope for continued health in your concern.

    • mudd 7 years ago

      When the gas dryer is open, no clothes, and running. I see flame. I put it together, add clothes, and very little heat comes out the vent. I dismantled everything and de-linted everything, I'm a general contractor, so i think of myself as handy, but if I can't fix it soon, my wife will kill me. Sometimes a professional is the best answer. thanks 4 the help remember safty 1st.

    • Appliance Doc profile image

      Appliance Doc 7 years ago from Michigan

      You may have an intermittent failure. If so, the burner coils are the cause 95% of the time. If you wish to prove this to yourself, watch the flames cycle on and off several times. What you will eventually see if the igniter glow, then start to lose it's glow yet with no flames to be seen. The burner coils are what releases the gas for ignition and heating. They weaken over time and fail to open/hold open the gas valves.

    • Mike M 7 years ago

      Clear concise instructions on troubleshooting a gas dryer. Very much appreciated. Checking continuity on the igniter was the key. Thanks again.

    • Carmen 7 years ago

      thank you

    • Dan 7 years ago

      i just changed the ignitor and realized that i didn't have too. because the continuity checked fine. There are like four different places to check continuity. which is the flame sensor

    • Wesley Roswold 7 years ago

      My igniter resistance is 124 ohms. My meter is a professional instrument and is accurately calibrated. I replaced the igniter anyway and now the dryer works just fine.

    • Appliance Doc profile image

      Appliance Doc 7 years ago from Michigan

      To Dan:

      The flame sensor sits outside the burner housing, even with the igniter (which rests inside the housing.

      to Wesley:

      It's possible your igniter simply wasn't getting hot enough, due to age, to effect the flame sensor. Not a common thing a dryer - happens all the time with ovens - but certainly possible. If the problem returns, I'd suggest replacing the burner coils as they can fail intermitently.

    • MP 7 years ago

      I think I have a bad ignitor it measures 63.6 ohms but one side looks jagged and chipped, the other side looks fine. How valid is a test of resistance?

    • Appliance Doc profile image

      Appliance Doc 7 years ago from Michigan

      There are times when an igniter simply fails to get hot enough to kick the flame sensor but they are rare in dryers. If it looks jagged (maybe with a white film somewhere along it) then it probably ought to be replaced. If this doesn't solve your issue, then look to the flame sensor or the coils. This is assuming you have already checked the thermal fuse, thermisters and such.

    • brad 7 years ago

      I have a kenmore 80s series with no heat. When I start the dryer it seems to fire up with a blue flame for a few seconds then there is a glow. The glow fades after a few seconds and every few minuestes I noticed the glow and then it fades. Does this sound like bad coils?

    • Appliance Doc profile image

      Appliance Doc 7 years ago from Michigan

      Yes.... classic symptoms of bad coils.

    • Colin 7 years ago

      Thank you sooooo much!

    • Appliance Doc profile image

      Appliance Doc 7 years ago from Michigan

      My pleasure :-)

    • art 7 years ago

      Whirlpool gas dryer heats for 10 seconds and then goes out.Changed coils,flame sensor and all thermosats.Can the motor switch be the problem

    • Appliance Doc profile image

      Appliance Doc 7 years ago from Michigan

      It would be very rare for the motor switch to fail intermitently. Were it bad, there would be no heat at all. When you say on for ten seconds, do you mean that is it for the entire time the dryer is running?

      You should check to see if there is a circuit board behind the control panel. It would be a bit smaller than a post card and nearly as thin, located near the heat select switch. That's generally a Maytag issue but you might have one of those rare models from a year that Whirlpool was trying something new. IF there is a board like that, it could be your problem.

      It's an odd problem... could be the timer, even. You'd have to take a voltage meter and trace out the voltages using the wiring diagram in order to be absolutely certain what is failing.

      I'd say it is time for you to call in a technician since poking around a live circuit is ABSOLUTELY NOT RECOMMENDED FOR THE NON-PROFESSIONAL.

      Good luck!

    • art 7 years ago

      Thanks for your reply.I changed the timer and temp switch another dryer I had and the same problem.

    • Appliance Doc profile image

      Appliance Doc 7 years ago from Michigan

      I think you went the wrong way around. Swap the suspect parts, one at a time, to the unit you know for a fact is working properly. If nothing changes, then swap the parts back and move on to the next part. Slow going, but a rare trouble shooting opportunity.

      Let me ask this.... well.. offer this.... When you press the start button on a whirlpool gas dryer, you will instantly hear a loudish click from the burner area. After a few moments, you will hear another click followed by the soft foom of igniting gas.

      If you don't hear the first sound then you need to look at the thermal fuse/cutoffs throughout the unit. Also, the centrifugal switch in the motor would cause this fist action to fail. Also, of course, being in fluff would keep this sound from ocurring.

      The second click will fail to evolve if the igniter fails to heat enough or if the flame sensor has failed.

      No foom will mean that the gas coils have failed to enact.

      Maybe this will help you out.

    • jason 7 years ago

      my electric dryer sparked out the back and then blew the main fuse. i reset the fuse box the drum spins but the heat does not work

    • Appliance Doc profile image

      Appliance Doc 7 years ago from Michigan

      Scroll up and start following the steps I have laid out. Sparks are dramatic and all but the troubleshooting is the same.

    • sharran 7 years ago

      strange. drum turns and not heat. read above and checked breakers (all 6 of them - elec. dryer) and while dryer is running, I turn off all breakers and NONE of them turn the dryer 'offo'. Could it be direct wired sonhow or what? I know nothing abouthi except I had the box replace 1st- from fuse to circuit 2)larger box 3)elec. co. made me move wiring to new outside box (wiring was suppose to remain the same). House is 90 years old and no trouble for 14 years with two dryers until now.



    • Appliance Doc profile image

      Appliance Doc 7 years ago from Michigan

      Have you checked the dryer's outlet and verified that there is 220V there?

    • mikeG 7 years ago

      HI, I read the steps above as well as some others from other sites. I have a gas whirlpool dryer - no heat. I looked through the peep hole and see no light from the ignitors and hear no clicks from the coils or rush of gas.

      I tested resistance of igniter= 76. I do have continuity in the radiant sensor = 0. I do NOT have continuity in the thermal fuse. I removed and then bypassed the thermal fuse by connecting the wires directly to see if the ignitors will light. I still get no light and no clicks.

      I will replace the thermal fuse first but I was wondering why bypassing it will not work to test the rest of the system?

    • Appliance Doc profile image

      Appliance Doc 7 years ago from Michigan

      I'll admit, that is a somewhat curious result. The simplest possibility is that you have the dryer set to fluff mode - it happens. Embarassing, but it happens. Next step is to do just what you are doing, replace the confirmed bad part. Then, start from scratch, treating as a new failure, and go through all the steps, in order, to find the failure. You can really mess yourself up thinking about what you think you already know. You get blindes and spend half an hour running in circles.

      So..... replace the thermal fuse then start your troubleshooting from step one.

      Good luck.

    • mikeG 7 years ago

      I replaced the thermal fuse and it all worked great! Thanks for your input. Still not sure why jumping the fuse wouldn't work.

    • Mark  7 years ago

      DOc, love your posts. good, informative stuff!

      I'm still fighting with my dryer as te clotes pile up (two boys under the age of three!)

      I Cant'seem to find the problem. Whirlpool gas dryer, door closed, latched fine, no switch problems.

      Anyway, when you want to start drying a load, and you push the start cycle button, and the dryer sounds like it is starting but as soon as you stop pushing the button nothing happens.

      And even holding the button down longer, you get that same "hum" like all dryers give as they are starting, but as soon as the button's released, nothing happens.

      Also, while you push the button, the lights seem to dim like it's drawing lots of power...

      ANy suggestions? could it be a thermal fuse? I thought if a thermal fuse went out I wouldn't get ANY sound...it would just be dead...

    • Appliance Doc profile image

      Appliance Doc 7 years ago from Michigan


      It sounds like your motor is locked. Try moving the drum by hand in each direction. If it won't let you move it a full turn in either direction then you have something stuck in the blower wheel. Getting to that wheel isn't necessarily simple so I would suggest calling in a pro.

      If the drum moves a full circle for you by hand, then it is most likely your motor has given up the ghost. Either way, it's technician time.

      Good luck.


    • TRIP 7 years ago

      I have a Frigidaire Dryer Model# FSE447GHSO.

      I have replaced High Limit Thermostat, Thermal Fuse, and Heating Element & Timer and still no heat. Is there any thing else that I may need to change out. Thanks

    • Appliance Doc profile image

      Appliance Doc 7 years ago from Michigan

      Have you followed the steps as I laid out? I know what you have replaced but what have you TESTED?

    • Greggy D 7 years ago

      GE Gas Dryer DPSB519GB0CC

      Dryer gets hot for first 10 minutes of operation for the day and then will not heat past that. Ignitor has resistance of 192 ohms.

      Would you recommend changing the ignitor AND the coils?

    • Appliance Doc profile image

      Appliance Doc 7 years ago from Michigan

      Greggy D....

      The coils are certainly bad.... when weak, they will fail later in the cycle. The ignitor is up to you... the resistance is a tad high but it is certainly functional.

    • Greggy D 7 years ago

      You nailed it. Put the new coils in today and works like a champ. I could kill GE for not having a rear access panel on this dryer. Putting the belt on was an absolute test of my patience going in from the front.

      Thanks for your help!!! $30 was a LOT better than a few hundred.

    • Appliance Doc profile image

      Appliance Doc 7 years ago from Michigan

      Nova... check out my talk with Greggy D, above.... sounds like the same issue.

    • Paul 7 years ago

      Twenty one year old Kenmore electric dryer. Thought it was the heating element, but apparently that wasn't it. What is your next best guess? The thermal fuse?

    • Appliance Doc profile image

      Appliance Doc 7 years ago from Michigan

      Follow the steps as I laid out... you'll get there.

    • gary 7 years ago

      So yeah. . . In the area of electric dryers, the link to where the heating elements might be found is missing.

      Thanks for all the directions!! Hopefully I can work out the problem myself without having to call in a pro.


    • Brian Bennett 7 years ago

      Hi Doc,

      Great advice on your web page…. Here’s my quandary.

      Maytag Gas Dryer. Takes very long to dry clothes ~3-4 hrs.

      Flame comes on initially ~10 seconds… then off ~ 40 seconds..

      Then cycles ~5 seconds on ~40sec off ~ … for the remainder.

      Not sure what a “normal” cycle is supposed to be

      The Dryer Temp switch selection (regular) appear OK….different settings does not have any affect.

      I jumpered across the high-limit cut-off thermostat and the flame will stay on

      much longer… (until I stopped the dryer). I only did a short 30 second test as a troubleshooting step.

      So “obviously” problem was a flakey hi-limit thermostat. Installed a new one and,... same result.

      I am guessing that possibly the flame is “too high/hot” (gas pressure or valve setting)?

      Any suggestions appreciated.

      --Brian Bennett

    • Jason 7 years ago

      I have a Maytag gas dryer only a few years old. The dryer timer recently stopped advancing and the gas seems to only work through the first cycle. Meaning, when the dryer is turned on it works fine, but when the cycle turns on to ignite the flame for round two, the element heats up but no gas. There is a clicking noise that begins as soon as the element clicks on and continues until the element turns off.

      I replaced the timer, but the noise still occurs after the first or second cycle. When using a lower temp setting it seems to take more cycles before it stops. When using the highest heat setting I only get one cycle before it stops and it will not work again until the dryer sits dormant for some time.

      Could the thermal fuse or thermostat be causing this or do you think it is the coil? Any thoughts?

    • Jim 7 years ago

      Great page. I followed your steps but none of the thermostats nor the element show a current. There is electricity to the electric dryer as when I check the main connections in the dryer, they do show a current. What do you think? Thanks, Jim

    • Travis 7 years ago

      I have a Kenmore electric washer/dryer combo. I have replaced the heating element and the thermostat and the breaker is fine. It still isn't giving off any heat. What's next?

    • Warren 6 years ago

      Great site, thanks for the tips. I think my coils might be bad. I have a Maytag Gas dryer. In all modes, the flame kicks on initially for a few minutes and doesn't seem to come on again afterwards. But the other problem is that the "More Dry" setting runs forever, the timer never moves. The timer does, however, work properly in when set in the timed mode. Could bad coils be the cause of this or does it sound more like a timer issue?

      Thanks again!


    • Kevin 6 years ago

      Kenmore 110 series gas dryer. Original problem - classic coils issue igniter glowed, burner lit for 20 seconds,then flame shut off for 1.5 to 2 min. then igniter glowed, etc. So, I changed the coils. Now no flame at all. There is a click when I hit the start switch, then about 15 seconds later, a the igniter glows for about 10 seconds, then a second click and the igniter goes out. No flame. Flame sensor (Which worked before)? Help.

    • Daniel 6 years ago

      Hello. My dryer wont get hot at all, its gas as well. I fallowed the directions indicated, but i dont have access to some of the options you have indicated in your directions. Help, please!! I am an electrician by trade, but have no clue on appliances. Thanks a bunch, i dig your hubpage.

    • fred 6 years ago

      I have Amana Gas Dryer. My symptom is: When I start the dryer, the ignitor glows then it seems to fire up with a blue flame for a few seconds. The glow fades after a few seconds and every few minutes I noticed the glow and then it fades. I did change the coils, and still have this same problem.

    • Eric 6 years ago

      I have the EXACT same problem as Brian mentioned above......

      Hi Doc,

      Great advice on your web page…. Here’s my quandary.

      Maytag Gas Dryer. Takes very long to dry clothes ~3-4 hrs.

      Flame comes on initially ~10 seconds… then off ~ 40 seconds..

      Then cycles ~5 seconds on ~40sec off ~ … for the remainder.

      Not sure what a “normal” cycle is supposed to be

      The Dryer Temp switch selection (regular) appear OK….different settings does not have any affect.

      I jumpered across the high-limit cut-off thermostat and the flame will stay on

      much longer… (until I stopped the dryer). I only did a short 30 second test as a troubleshooting step.

      So “obviously” problem was a flakey hi-limit thermostat. Installed a new one and,... same result.

      I am guessing that possibly the flame is “too high/hot” (gas pressure or valve setting)?

      Any suggestions appreciated.

      --Brian Bennett

    • james  6 years ago

      i am having trouble locating my dry's problem i have test the fuses and replaced the coils however the dryer flames for one min or so then goes out it will relight mins. later but not enough to dry load. please help. this is Whirlpool gas dryer

    • wen lan 6 years ago

      I have turn off the gas to my gas dryer. Now, I do not know how to make my dryer heat up. Could you guide me through how to make my dryer heat up?

    • help me 6 years ago

      please help me my gas dryer flame is on and off, is it supposed to do that, or be lit all the time?

    • Jeremy 6 years ago

      Well I have an eletric ge basic dryer and one day just out of nowhere it stopped generating the proper amount of heat but the confusing thing is when the tub stops spinning it will produce heat even after it's off. It was working fine for weeks it's a fairly new dryer

    • Paul 6 years ago

      Just wanted to say very informative guide but it didn't help me any. I have a kenmore 70 series gas dryer about a year ago I had the coils replaced. Now the dryer wont heat at all, it never even ingnites I test all the thermal fuses had continunity in all checked the ingniter and got 79.9 ohms and had continunity on the flame sensor.

    • hoang 6 years ago

      need help-=I use a volt tester on a dryer outlet and it reads 211V (121v on the left and 121 on the right). How I need to do to get it up to 240v?

    • Rich 6 years ago

      I have a Kenmore 80 series gas dryer that heats up very well on the 1st ignition, it will heat for about 12 mins. Once the flame goes out the glow will reappear after it cools down but does not glow as long as the initial time and of course no flame. If I restart the dryer again it will work fine on the initial start but can't get another flame. If I run the dryer in 20 min cycles it will dry the clothes. It kinda points to the coils but I don't hear the chattering of the gas valve. It just seems like the heating element does not stay on long enough. Any suggestions? Thanks

    • shadowfax007 6 years ago

      Appliance Doc-

      Thanks for a great site. I've searched dozens of pages trying to find an answer (As well as learn just how a dryer works), but keep coming back to yours!

      I have a really nice Multimeter that a friend left me(Fluke T5-600), but never knew how to use it - Now I do (After getting over the fear of sticking the terminals into an outlet - I'm still here!!)

      We have a 5 year old Roper electric dryer that started to fail in heating the clothes.

      I've checked the electric plug at the wall, and have 240 volts.

      I've checked the thermal fuse, and the continuity is fine.

      I checked the heating element, and the continuity is fine as well.

      I even checked the voltage at the "Heating Terminal" (There are three wires going to this -2 reds(one on top and one on the left) and one white(In the middle. I checked the red wire on the left and the white after turning on the dryer, expecting to get 110 volts to the heating element, but got nothing.

      I'm wondering if one of the thermostats has gone out, or the "high limit"(The other red wire from above) thermostat has failed, but don't know how to check any of these.

      Since there is no heat whatsoever, It seems these would more likely be the culprit rather than something in the switches (Since there are several settings that would produce heat, I wouldn't suspect them ALL to fail at once).

      any ideas, or is it possible to check these "Thermostats?

      Thanks so much for your time and the site. If nothing else, your site has taught me a little about how a dryer works!

      Is there some way to check these (Continuity, volts, etc...)?

    • bhoges17 6 years ago

      My Whirlpoor gas dryer isn't getting hot. I can see the element is glowing red hot but no gas is flowing. Would the flame sensor be the problem?

    • mike 6 years ago

      i have a kenmore 70 series dryer. the flame will come on for 20 seconds and goe off for 1 to 2 minutes and repeat the process. i replaced th thermostats and coils. i ck continuity to flame sensor ok. i ck thermal fuse ok. the igniter glows orange and ignites gas and stops glowing gas burns for 20 seconds and then stops after 2 min. igniter glows and repeats process.

    • gettingfrustrated 6 years ago

      I am hoping you can help me out here. I replaced the thermal fuse on my dryer a couple of weeks ago and all was working fine until tonight. It is burned out again.

      I have checked the airflow on the dryer and there are no problems in the hose or outside at the vent. Also the screen is cleaned after every load. I really don't want to shell out the money for a new dryer, but I also don't want to keep dumping money into this one. What do you suggest?

    • poo 6 years ago

      your gart

    • Paul 6 years ago

      Need some help troubleshooting a Whirlpool GGQ8811LW1 gas dryer with no heat. I originally identified that the ignitor had gone bad (registered 0 ohms and had a small crack in the middle of a white spot on the carbide section). I replaced the ignitor two days ago, being careful not to touch the carbide portion, and the dryer worked perfectly for three days. Today, the heat stopped again. After a 5 minute inspection - I found the new ignitor has 'blown' with the same symptoms as the first ignitor - a small crack in the middle of a 'white spot'. I've checked the thermal fuse, and both coils and they are fine; however, I'm not registering any ohms in the flame sensor or the high limit t-stat. Any thoughts on what is causing the ignitor to 'break' like this?

    • Carol Alvarez 6 years ago

      I've got a weird one. My Maytag gas dryer will not heat up. We recently did some exhaust changes, but we improved them. I took the front off and when the door is off and I push the door closed button, the igniter glows and the flame burns for a while and then repeats. I feel plenty of heat in the drum.

      If I then close the door of the dryer and watch the flame, the igniter lites, but the flame never comes. The igniter will continue to cycle, but no flame. I checked the air output velocity at the outside of the new vent and it feels strong.

      Why will my dryer only ignite only with the door open?

      Thanks, Carol

    • Danny C 6 years ago

      I have A Whirlpool LGQ9030PQ1 Gas Dryer that wont stay hot

      and reading your page i get that it might be the coils also i see more noticeable lint on and around the dryer could it be a intake or exhaust issue

    • Michael 6 years ago

      I have had three different dryers in my house over the last 3 days and none of them are producing heat. Is the cord bad or is the outlet bad? Could it be the breaker? HELP!!!!!!

    • Tammy 6 years ago

      I have a Amanda dryer replace the Ignitor and still there is no heat...what could be the problem

    • Ron 6 years ago

      I have a Kenmore Elite Dryer that is about 4 years old. My wife claims that when she turned the dryer on, it made a popping sound.

      She went to check the breaker and sure enough, it was trippped.

      She flipped the switch back to on and turned the dryer on.

      It runs but has no heat.

      I've had the fuses/coils checked and they are good.

      I will be checking the voltage next.

      any other ideas on what the cause might be??

    • gary 6 years ago

      i have a kenmore gas dryer that isn't heating up and the timer isn't going off either it just keeps running? i changed the ignitor with no luck, what's next the flame sensor???

      thanks for any advice....

    • BENJAMIN 6 years ago

      I have a whirpool dryer model # GLC 6646AN0...NO HEAT AT ALL ,I have read all your sugestions .and followed step by step..( check thermostat.changed coils,check continuity on igniter and I got 95.5 Ohms reading .check flame sensor seem to be ok.) but still no heat..no glowing , no clicking noises ,.is there any thing else to check

      PS...I got no voltage coming out from the motor switch to the coils.by pressing the starter botton the drum turns but nothing happen ,no heat ,any help please

    • Janet Hendrickson 6 years ago

      Do you have a picture of the parts for a Speed Queen gas dryer model#AGM499W

    • Joe 6 years ago

      Kenmore gas dryer stars,glows,blue flame visible and runs for 3-4mins then falme shuts off no heat. After it cools it will do the same thing. Is this a thermostat problem?

    • Jennifer 6 years ago

      Whirlpool gas dryer, push start button dryer comes on and drum spins, glow, gas comes on, starts to heat and after then the gas goes on and off like it should but does not stay on long enough to heat and then starts to make a clicking noise when trying to heat. Took dryer apart many many times. Please help.

    • priscilla1952 6 years ago

      The flame sensor connection is broken. No heat, so why...

      Why would you need to disconnect the gas line on a gas dryer if the dryer in not plugged in for power?

    • Jim 6 years ago


      I have a Whirlpool gas dryer. No heat! I looked into the portal and restarted the unit and the glow igniter does not come on. Took it to a parts guy and he tested it at 55 ohms and said it is good. I took the 2 thermal fuses off of the back and the one thin white fuse as well off and will be taking it in for testing as well. My question is ....if any one of these fuses are shot will it prevent the igniter from glowing? I assumed that they detect heat not sure if they "communicate" with the igniter itself. Also is it normal for the 2 thermal fuses to rattle when shaken? Sounds like something loose in the disc part of the fuses. I know...silly question!

    • Ben L 6 years ago

      Thanks so much for the helpful troubleshooting. I followed the suggestions in the Maytag repair instructions(Modern gas dryer) and ended up buying a control board($200) when after following your guide, found out it was the ignitor.(500,000 Ohm resistance) The guide had me only checking the thermister, thermal fuse, valve resistance etc...NOT the ignitor resistance! Unfortunately, I cant return the board, but have learned a great deal in the process. I'll come here first next time!

    • Ken Coley 6 years ago


      I am checking the thermostats in my Alliance Gas Dryer but one has 6 connections (511957) how can I test this? Also I have only found one other thermostat on the burner housing, it tests fine, are there any more I could be missing? I tested the igniter it was fine, then dropped it and it broke:) Symptoms are that it spins but igniter doesn't warm up, so assume thermo failure?

      Thanks in advance!

    • Bryan L 6 years ago

      Hello. I have an admiral gas dryer that heats up for awhile and then cools off and more often than not doesn't finish cycle, just keeps running. Timer makes a constant noise in the 30min time mode, which I don't ever use til recently. Is this a bad timer or cause by bad coils. I have tried to clean out all dust/lint thouroughly. Thanks for your help!

    • Jason 6 years ago

      I have a Maytag dryer (MDG308DAWW). The dial was not advancing in "auto" dry mode. It would advance in timer mode..but clothes were not drying. It would heat for about 4-5 mins, and thats it. I took the front off the dryer(leaving the door switch wires connected), and watched the burner. It would light the first two times but not the 3rd, 4th, 5th, etc...times. After reading these posts (and conformation from my local appliance store)...I replaced the gas coils. Perfect! My dryer works now. Thank you Appliance Doc! For $30 I have a dryer that works like brand new...it could've been at least 5 times that amount if a service tech made a visit. Hope this helps some of you out.

    • Hannah 6 years ago

      My 8 year old gas Maytag dryer quit drying. I took the front cover off to see if the igniter was working. It was. The gas came on fine and it heated. I cleaned all the lint out and vaccumed inside the motor area and then vaccumed the vent duct. I put it back together, put my clothes in and it didn't heat again. I repeated the entire process again and again, it ignited fine while I had the front cover off. I even disconnected it from the vent duct just to see if it wasn't venting and tested it many times. Every time, it ignited just fine. It seems to not heat when the front cover is on and it has clothes in it. Any ideas?

    • Daniel 6 years ago

      Thanks so much for laying this out. After reading this I was able to solve the problem in no time.

    • Shaun 6 years ago

      I have a Whirlpool gas dryer. There was no heat so I determined I needed a flame sensor. I've replaced this and it heats up for about 10 min and then the light goes out and no more heat. I've cleared all lint....can't figure out why it will heat for 10 min and then the pilot goes out? Suggestions?

    • sarahscott85 6 years ago

      I've determined with my electric dryer that my outlet is bad. It tests for 110 v on each side, but I don't get a 240 v reading... which is why it is running, but no heat. What now? Do I need new breakers or an electrician to rewire a whole new outlet?

    • Kebeh 6 years ago

      My dryer is working but, there's no heat coming from it, therefore my clothes won't dry. I'm totally clueless of what to do because I have no knowledge of machines. HELP!

    • Millie Viera 6 years ago

      Where do I find the heating element in a whirlpool dryer

    • acehoser 6 years ago

      I've cleaned out the lint throughout the dryer and vent, but when I have the vent pipe connected the dryer will heat, then shut off after about 10-15 seconds. If I disconnect the vent, the gas flame stays lit. Is this indicative of a faulty coil? I've swapped the thermister.

    • Scott W 6 years ago

      no heat in kenmore gas dryer. changed the ingnitor, still does not glow. dont have a multi meter, what i next logical part?

      this is the most informative site so far, by far!

    • honuski 6 years ago

      I followed your instructions and found my igniter to be bad (cracked no reading). I replaced it and I'm back in business. Thank You Very Much and Merry Christmas> : )

    • Kevin 6 years ago

      Hi there,

      Hoping you can help!

      i have a Kenmore 70 series gas with NO glow from the glow igniter, so I:

      1) replaced the glow igniter - STILL NO GLOW

      2) replaced thermal fuse - STILL NO GLOW

      3) replaced coils - STILL NO GLOW

      can you PLEASE let me know what direction i should be looking now? Thank you!

    • thebombsteak 6 years ago

      Hi there,

      Hoping you can help!

      i have a Kenmore 70 series gas with NO glow from the glow igniter, so I:

      1) replaced the glow igniter - STILL NO GLOW

      2) replaced thermal fuse - STILL NO GLOW

      3) replaced coils - STILL NO GLOW

      can you PLEASE let me know what direction i should be looking now? Thank you!

    • Rebecca 6 years ago

      We have an electric kenmore dryer, it tumbles fine but no heat we have changed the breaker (thing in the box in the basement), the heating element in the dryer and those can looking fuses and still no heat. What we we missing?

    • Lisa 6 years ago

      Whirlpool LGR663 series, not heating, ignitor lights, flames for 30 seconds then click and off, ironic as was repeating this process till i replaced the hilimit thermostat,now no repeat just goes out, I have replaced the coils, the ignitor, both thermostats, appliance parts store told me that the it was not the flame sensor that those never are really the cause, help, I am out of parts and patience. thanks

    • Lisa 6 years ago

      sorry didn't mention, gas dryer thx

    • KirkNY 6 years ago

      I have a Maytag LSG7806AAE stacked gas dryer that has completely dumbfounded me. I consider myself a pretty competent DIYer and can't figure out this issue and hoping you may be able to provide some insight. When I start the dryer the ignitor heats up, the coils release the gas valve and the flame starts. The ignitor then turns off and the flame continues until the ignitor is no longer glowing. Once this happens the coils click and shut off the gas valve. This happens throughout the entire drying cycle and results in very little heat to the clothes. I have replaced the coils as that was an immediate concern of another person I reached out to for help but that did not change anything. I have checked and confirmed continuity with the thermal fuse, the gas cycling thermostat's outer two contacts, the cycling thermostat, as well as the thermal sensor. At this point I think I've eliminated all potential issues - any I'm missing? Please help!!!!

    • Sam 6 years ago

      electric dryer heating element heats up (glows) for about a minute then shuts off. Motor running and air coming from exhaust. Should I replace the thermostat

    • joe 5 years ago

      i have a GE 2 cycle electric dryer model #DDE5100RALWH with the same problem as sams above, the tumbler comes on with the heating element but the heating element shuts off after about 15-60 seconds... n e suggestions Aplliance Doc!?!?

    • Johnnie 5 years ago

      Same as above, I have an electric dryer which will heat up for 1 minute then shuts off for one minute all though out the cycle. I've changed all 3 Thermal Fuses. Your help is welcomed. Thanks

    • kelvingriffith 5 years ago

      kenmore dryer-gas.problem I thought was an electric ignitor. I replced it it didn't glow. now I wondering is could it be the flame sensor? is it the part that set on tin housing,square piece with the word them-o-disc?

    • Tami 5 years ago

      My fridgedair gas dryer gets warm but not hot. When I start the dryer it turns on then there is a loud click and I can see the burner light very brightly. After a few seconds the glow dyes down and there is a slight glow but not very bright, then it goes out. It does however seem to cycle, relighting and the same thing occures. The dryer does seem to be blowing luke warm air but does not get HOT. I thought it was the ignighter but now I see that it is lighting. It seems it will not hold its initial heat. I cleaned it very well, with no success. It is not real old but has seem alot of use. Everything else seem to be in tip top condition but with very little heat. Can you help me trouble shoot this problem. I am very mechnically inclined, but as the parts are not cheap I don't want to over shoot the problem

    • David  5 years ago

      I have a Kenmore gas dryer and have no heat. I first changed the ignitor and then the radiant sensor. Both have not helped and seems like no electric is getting to ignitor, since it's not lighting. What do you think is issue? What regulates electric to the ignitor? Is there a fuse or switch issue?

    • Lightnin Jones 5 years ago

      I have a GE DDG7985SBLWW gas dryer that isn't heating. Drilled a hole low in the burner side of cabinet to view "the glow" - no glow. Then I ran continuety tests on all electical "doo dads" I could see and find. It all tested ok on ohm meter - 3 thermostats, igniter, both coils, heat/flame sensor, and belt tensioner switch - all beeped on my tests. But upon my checking voltage at the connector to the igniter, expecting 110/115v I had no voltage at all. Thought maybe because the motor/belt switch was "open" from the belt being off, voltaged was cutoff from motor to the heating circuit. Leaning towards reported difficulty in obtaining accurate coil readings, I went and bought new coils and just to be sure, I thought, a new round igniter. Reassembled and tried it - still nothing . Motor runs fine, but still no glow, no ignition of gas, and upon rechecking, no voltage at the igniter connector. Schematic indicates under these conditions to test and confirm function at flame "detector", Timer TA TB, Heat Switch (? one of the 3 "stats" at back of heating chamber up on duct leading to disperser, that I checked and were ok?), Motor Switch 1&2 (only one I see is Belt SW)and last but not least - thermostats. I even checked the "EOS" next to the timer and no current or beep. I didn't really understand the TA TB part, can't say on success or not. there is a little gizmo wedged on the motor winding itself with red wire ,looks like, leading into winding. All ducting is spotless, vent is way free. I ws thinking about buying the flame detector just becuz, but have reservations about the lack of voltage at that igniter connector. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

    • caleb 5 years ago

      Whirlpool gas dryer. Igniter heats up for a few seconds then goes out. Replaced coils. Same thing. What is the next step?

    • margie100 5 years ago

      the dryer wont heat.I do believe it mite be the volts cause this is the 3-4th dryer I've been thru the first 3 wre used but this one is new so do you think it could be the voltage?that dsoes entail checking the breaker rite or is the breaker on the dryer?Please answer soon thanks

    • Jim N 5 years ago

      GE electric dryer cycles on and off takes long time to dry clothes.

    • mtleggat 5 years ago

      I have an electric whirlpool dryer and the heat doesn't work and neither does the timer (on both auto and manual). I tested the thermal fuse and it has good continuity....any suggestions?


    • Tim S 5 years ago

      I have a gas maytag dryer and it is about 10 yrs old. I unplugged the unit and checked all the fuses. All have continunity except the heat sensor. My problem is that the igniter does not get hot because it is only getting 28 volts to it, so it will not trigger the heat sensor which tells the gas valve to open. Why am I only getting 28 volts to the igniter?

    • mike 5 years ago

      I have replaced the coils on my maytag dryer. I checked the ignitor and it is getting continuity but it is not glowing. Is my problem with the thermal fuse(dryer runs but not heating)or is my problem the ignitor?Thank you for your answer! mleh1228@aol.com

    • mary Smith 5 years ago

      go out side and run a wet and dry vac in the lent trap outside and suck up all the water then your dryer will work I had to do that the other day now mr dryer dried my clothes real fast.

    • Linda 5 years ago

      Being a recent widow, I had no idea why the dryer would run but didn't have any heat, or how to fix it. After reading the article I turned the circuit breaker on and off a few times, and it worked! Thank you

    • Rick Spero 5 years ago

      My dryer stoppped heating and I found your website. I saw your troubleshooting steps from 2 years ago and tracked the problem down to a bad thermal fuse. Thanks so much for your advice!!!!

    • Jenni012578 5 years ago

      Is the heat going out common, my dryer is only 6 years old. I remember my mom having her dryer 30 before she had problems LOL I will have my husband try these things first. Thanks for trying to help us save a few bucks. Vacation is comimg quick :)

    • Dolly 5 years ago

      We bought a dryer at a moving sale and it is farely new. The dryer was in working condition when we got it and we did see it run and it did put out heat, we loaded it up and brought it home and now won't heat. It tumbles and works like that, but no heat at all. It is a GE dryer and the model # is DBSR453EB3WW.

    • Jemma 5 years ago

      Thanks for the help. Also Jenni I am going to have to agree with things going out faster because they are cheaply made now. My parents have the same one they had when I grew up. :3

    • crystel rodriguez 5 years ago

      hi!i have a kenmore electric dryer,it doesn't make heat and the timer knob don't rotate. what could it be.

    • Tim 5 years ago

      When I start the dryer it turns on then there is a loud click and I can see the burner light with a large flame. A short time later it goes out and stays out. No smell of gas just wont re-light. Afetr a few trys...its repeats....on, click, flame....out. Please help! Thanks, Tim. tbusb@comcast.net

    • linda 5 years ago

      my dryer wont heat up

    • aa8rv 5 years ago


      I'm suspecting a bad thermal fuse on my Kenmore 27 inch electric dryer as the reason why it runs but does not dry. Where can I get this thermal fuse for my particular model? And more importantly, I got confused on the wiring points to the three separate units that are on the heating element vent including the thermal fuse(in other words, which wires go to each fuse) I see that the wire prongs are different in size on some wires and that helps.


    • greg douthit 5 years ago

      Have Whirlpool elec dryer. replaced both fuses and coil. Worked for a couple of days now back to no heat.

    • Billgator 5 years ago

      I have a Whirlpool gas dryer model LGQ8858HZ0. My dryer starts up and runs with flame for 4-5 minutes. The flame then cuts out and the dryer will every few minutes try to reignite. Nice glow from the ignitor but no ignition. There is also a funny sound preceeding the ignitor glow which sounds like a penney sliding around in the drum. Not banging around but sliding. If you let the dryer cool down it will reignite but then kill the flame after 4-5 minutes.

    • justin 5 years ago

      i have a whirlpool gas dryer and i have NO heat at all,ive changed the •Igniter


      •Flame sensor

      what else could possibly be wrong im not very handy but i cant afford to replace the dryer what else can i do?Please help thanks

    • Rey 5 years ago

      Hi Justin, Im not the DOC or a pro but the first thing i always check is the Thermal fuse (most common prob i come across) if circuit is open replace...

    • Billgator 5 years ago

      I replaced my solenoid coils and now my gas dryer functions properly. See my above post for the symptoms.

    • Mike 5 years ago

      Greg, I had the same problem, it ended up being a thermistor located on the blower of my kenmore elite dryer.

    • HarryJ 5 years ago

      I have a Whirlpool Electric Dryer Model # LEC 8858EZO for a few years. No problems so far and today I find that the clothes when dried are not warm. Looks like the heater is no working. Any guidance/suggestions/recommendations please would be appreciated. I am unemployed and cannot afford to buy a new one. If I can repair it myself, that would help me. Thanking you in advance. HarryJ

    • Joe 5 years ago

      I have a strange one. Am renting the house, so when not heat, the owner replaced it. About 10 days later, no heat again, with a NEW dryer. The ignitor glows but shuts of in about 10 seconds. Therefore the problem is outside the dryer, right?!!?

      I can see gas supply valve is open, and electrical is good (drum spins, ignitor glows) but no heat. Wondered if it was able to detect jammed exhaust pipe (ours goes to rooftop) so I removed the vent pipe and IT WORKED... ignitor, fire, heat, and dry clothes. But only once. Now with vent pipe removed we get no heat still. Suspect gas now?

    • al 5 years ago

      I have a Maytag dryer I change coils and thermostat. Before the igniter wasn't working. and that problem solved but right now "when I shut the door and start, there is no heat. the igniter comes on but the pilot light doesn't turn on, but when the door is open and press the door switch to make it start, the pilot works and the dryer is working fine. I was thinking it's an air circulation problem maybe the air goes to the pilot and blowing straight to the pilot. I tried to find the problem but can't trace any. Any Ideas.

    • charles new york 5 years ago

      i have a whirlpool gas dryer stopped drying i changed the ignitor still no heat PLEASE HELP

    • Jess brewer 5 years ago

      Our dryer won't light up or put out heat would that be the heating element or something wrong with our breaker. It worked with a large load of clothes in it last night but I places a smaller load in it today an it won't heat. The dryer kept blowing the breaker last night could that have something to do with why it won't work now?

    • Penny 5 years ago

      After changing the solenoids, the problem persisted. The gas would light for about ten seconds and then shut off pretty much for good. My wife pointed out that there's was no lint in the filter. So I started thinking "clog" somewhere inside the dryer. Only after tearing the thing apart front and back did I think to look INSIDE the dryer. Eight softener sheets were fused to the exhaust outlet! Ho ho! That was easy!

    • Enzo Piccinini 4 years ago

      @ thebombsteak

      1) replaced the glow igniter - STILL NO GLOW

      2) replaced thermal fuse - STILL NO GLOW

      3) replaced coils - STILL NO GLOW

      ----Try testing the flame sensor, one of the more common part to go out.

    • ale 4 years ago

      my dryer does heat up after 6 hrs running and it takes like 4 hrs to dry my cloths what could be wrong?

    • jkunkels@aol.com 4 years ago

      bypassed the thermal fuse and was working fine so ordered a new one. In the mean time I moved it while it was running and the bypass shorted out, and now is not working again. What to check next.

    • wallytiger 4 years ago

      I have an electric Amana dle330raw dryer that a wire to the thermo fuse cutof blew. The thermo fuse cutof works but test shows the thermo fuse itself is bad. i replace the thermo fuse and the dryer worked for a day and the same wire going to the thermo fuse cut of blew again

    • Bo 4 years ago

      Great path to diagnosis - thanks for laying it out for me! I took the fuse off today - and I'm getting a new one this weekend. I hope it works - but even if it doesn't, you really laid out the options perfectly. THANKS FOR THE HUB PAGE!

    • Jim 4 years ago

      I have a Kenmore Ultra Fabric Care 27" gas dryer. I get no heat although the dryer works fine otherwise. I have already replaced the thermostat and tested the Igniter, which got 69.5 ohm. I also tested the flame sensor and thermal fuse and have continuity on both. I'm at a loss where to go from here. I also had the temperature control switch off, but could not tell if it was bad and couldn't locate a replacement. I have the dryer pulled apart, any help would be appreciated.

    • wallytiger 4 years ago

      To follow up on my Amana dryer: apparently replacing the thermal fuse alone did not do the trick. I had to change the thermostat too. Once both were changed, my dryer has been working since.

    • frieda 4 years ago

      i have replaced the heating element the thermal fuse checked the breaker its good and the dryer still has no heat so what else could it be

    • DAR 4 years ago

      my dryer works and then shot off by it self we have to wait until cools off.likes over heats....help me please.

    • Lori 4 years ago

      I can see a coil light up but no flame. Any suggestions? Gas Dryer.

    • Mike N 4 years ago

      Read previous blogs (thanks) approx 2 years ago replaced 2 bad gas valve relays to solve dryer heat on /off problem & replaced ignitor for good measure. Now ignitor does not glow when dryer is running, measured 75 ohms & inspected ignitor which still looks new. Tested flame sensor, 0 ohms & checked relays which checked OK. Drum rotates and no obstructions in vent or dryer. What next?

    • Dot 4 years ago

      I have a kenmore 90 series and it runs but does not get hot...we do not see any flame when turned on

    • Gman 4 years ago

      I have a whirlpool electric dryer that wont heat , I have replace the thermal fuse , heating element and the piece that goes into the heating element and still does not get hot . Flip the switch on the fuse box , is there anything else that I need to do .

    • Tim 4 years ago

      On an electric dryer should you see sometimes see a glowing or light at the bottom of the dryer? We had ours out from the wall after we had cleaning out lint from the duct. Also should the back where it sticks out on the left side feel really hot?

      Thanks for any help.

    • Alex 4 years ago

      Not getting igniter glow on a (Whirlpool) 80-series Kenmore gas dryer. Checked thermal fuse first, resistance is near zero. Checked igniter, looks good and resistance is 76 ohms. Suggestions on what to look for next? Thanks for your help.

    • patfussy 4 years ago

      I have an admiral electric dryer,it died on me and through different channels figured out it was a bad thermal fuse. I replaced it and the dryer is running again...only now it won't heat up. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    • Claire 4 years ago

      I have a gas dryer won't heat as of yesterday afternoon. It does turn on. We had power out in a few outlets in the house one on the same wall (opposite side) of the dryer. I think somehow the pilot went out? Any suggestions?


    • Cliff 4 years ago

      My Performa dryer (by Maytag) would fire the first time, but that was it. Timer wouldn't move (apparently it only moves when the flame is on). I checked the coils with a meter, and they measured spot-on (see above). Still, I saw other people had the same issues, had good readings, and still replaced the coils. I found a set for less than $8.00, including shipping, so there was little risk in replacing them. Once replaced, the dryer is working fine, and the timer operates correctly as well. So my story is basically that the coils were weak and failing, even though when I'd checked them with an ohm meter they appeared to be fine. If your dryer does fire, but only once, or intermittently, try replacing the coils... It can't be the thermal fuse or sensors if the gas still comes on at all. It likely isn't the ignitor if you get a good, bright glow. Replace the coils - worked for me.

    • james 4 years ago

      my dryer will not haet up

    • jostler2013 3 years ago

      Thanks for the help, I've had some of my own troubles with dryers. Some of the biggest problems I have is that the heating element will go out. I like to do most of my own repairs but sometimes I just don't have time. If you are ever in need of an appliance repair in naples, you'll have to check out these guys http://www.alwaysspeedyapplianceservice.com, they've always seemed to be a great alternative for when I can't fix it myself.

    • chris carney 3 years ago

      my dryer spins and the heating element tested ok and the thermal fuse tested ok but it still wont heat. the vent isn't clogged either. it did work last night but only one load. Help?

    • Paul 3 years ago

      Whirlpool CGM2941TQ1

      The dryers gas valve mysteriously self ignites. No coins no manual reset, just cycles on and off like it was normally running. The drum does not turn when this is happening.

      Please help! Thank you for your input. Paul

    • bart clovis 3 years ago

      ive replaced the heating coil in my older whirlpool dryer and it tumbles but does not get warm

    • garett 3 years ago

      My kenmore gas dryer works it spins but no heat. If changed the coils and still no heat. We watched the ignitor it glows up and seems like it wants to ignite but the glow disappears. Like its not getting any gas to ignite. Could it be the gas valve on the machine? When it starts up it sounds normal but then after couple seconds it starts making a funny buzzing noise. Then it will go away and come back..while that noise is happening the ignitor repeats itself to try to ignite.

    • joeyallen profile image

      Kerry Allen 3 years ago from SE Texas

      Hey Doc

      I just purchased a gas GE Dryer used and everything works except there is no heat. In reading your article, you have a reference to figure 3 but I can't find it...

      Am I just not seeing it?

    • roberto 2 years ago

      I have a GE GAS Dryer Model DCVH680GJ2WW bouth 5/7/2010 and it does not have heat, my Igniter reads 185 ohms, I read above that it should be less than 100 ohm, I measure an Inlet control thermostat # 507, and a thermistor #240 and both shows open, I order a new parts and both shows open too, all the other parts in the dryer thermostat and thermistor reads OK, is the Igniter 185 ohms bad, and the thermostat and thermistor both open bad too.

      Please help

    • Steve 2 years ago

      I have an older model GE gas dryer. The heat comes on for one or two times and then runs cold the remainder of the dryer cycle. Sounds like the coils based on my research but I checked the coils with an ohm meter and they seemed to be ok. Any ides?

    • Nelson 2 years ago

      This site has a lot of great info but I don't know if the Appliance Doc ever made it back to health. Sad

    • Todd Capparello 2 years ago

      I have replaced fuse igniter and now gas coils. Still can't get get dryer to heat up. Can you help me with this?

    • Traci Tucker 2 years ago

      I had this problem with my Coldstream dryer recently.

      I wrote a post about it. This will help you easily fix your dryer within 30 seconds and for free.


      Good luck

    • Robert s 16 months ago

      How do I know which switches in my breaker box control the dryer outlet?

    • Vinny 4 months ago

      Hi guys I have a Kenmore gas dryer from Sears. I remember once when a load finish drying as I was taking her clothes out and the machine was not running I spun the drum and I heard something click and since then the dryer is not heating whenever I cycle it for a dry model # 11070172002. Thank you in advance your output really appreciate it.

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