How to Treat a Mold Infestation on Wood With Borax 20 Mule Team Powder
How to Kill Mold With Borax "Paint"
Perhaps one can expect to find a little mold in any home, especially a home with a basement or which is located in a humid climate. However, there is such a thing as too much mold. When you are challenged with the latter situation and cannot afford outside mold remediation services, one of the DIY options is to kill the mold with the detergent booster Borax (TM).
Step One: Personal Protective Gear
Do not be casually confident that you are a healthy person and your immune system can defend itself. Be safe, not sorry. Buy a face mask and borrow or buy goggles.
The face mask recommended for mold removal is called a respirator, which sounds more ominous than it really is. The P100 or N95 mask is what is required. These are made by several companies and have varying features. I love the 3-M N95 with a nostril valve. It allows for better exhalation and stays dry. Once I bought a cheaper N95 which had no nostril valve. It complied with the NIOSH standards, but the moisture in my exhaled breath condensed on the inside of the mask and I was feeling a damp mess on my chin.
I normally wear glasses which have saved my eyes from injury many a time, as I do carpentry or gardening. However, my mold consultant strongly recommended eye goggles for anyone working above her own head. Naturally, painting a ceiling has one working overhead. So, I bought and used goggles which turned out to be very comfortable and not vision-obscuring.
My hair protection is merely an old ratty white T-shirt turned inside out as if I was pulling it off, but got stuck around my face. (Didn't you ever do this when you were a child?) I pulled the long ends in front of my neck and used a safety pin to attach them.
Completing the gear are an old long-sleeved shirt and long pants and plastic clogs (socks, too.) I launder them separately from any other clothing.
Personal Safety Is Paramount
Step Two: Prepare the Area
Identify the moldy area and brush or sweep away loose debris. Bag this and dispose of it. Then vacuum the same area, preferably with a HEPA vacuum cleaner. If you need to set up work lights, do this now. Also, gather any ladders or step stools you will need for the painting job. If you can open windows or doors to provide yourself with fresh air and ventilation.
Step Three: Make Borax Paint
Finding Borax in stores may be a bit of a project for you. It is considered a laundry product, so go to the clothes washing aisle of your stores. I have found it at a big box store (thank you, Supreme Being!) but usually there is only one box on a bottom shelf. If you find a large supply, I recommend that you purchase a box for every 300 square feet which you plan to treat.
Why Borax? It is not toxic to you, the homeowner, and it is effective in kllling mold. All the safety equipment described above is for protection from the mold, not from the cleaning agent.
The recipe given is one cup of Borax dissolved in one gallon of water. HOWEVER - I found two problems with that. The first is that it is cumbersome for me to haul a 1-gallon container of Borax paint up a ladder to paint the underside of wooden sub-flooring. The more important reason for changing this, though, is because Borax is not the easiest material to dissolve. Or, to stay dissolved.
Therefore, I use 1/2 cup to 2 quarts of water - BOILING WATER, that is. I put the dry powdered Borax in a manageable sized 2+ quart saucepan (another advantage is the handle - ease of carrying around) and then pour in boiling water from a teakettle and stir. This at least starts the paint as fully dissolved. Some Borax will eventually settle to the bottom of the saucepan before I am done painting, but it is nothing compared to what sits at the bottom when I have used cold tap water. Since I work in either unheated or barely heated areas, the paint cools quickly and I am not in danger of burning my skin with scalding water.
Step Four: Paint Ceiling and Joists With Borax
Cover every bit you can reach with your "paint." It looks rather clear, more like cloudy water than an opaque white. When it dries, it will look much more white.
Good Luck To You
I hope this helps those beleaguered with weather- and disaster-related wetness. Please comment to let me know how it goes for you.
This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.
Questions & Answers
I don't plan on painting after treatment with Borax (plywood roofing in attic). What would I follow up with to clean the mold off of the wood? My husband tried something from a big box store which he sprayed on and scrubbed. It did take some of the mold stain off, but I don't want to use anything so toxic.Helpful 1
Can you paint over the borax concoction after it dries?
Yes, you can. First paint a lime chemical whitewash, then paint your desired color. The lime seals in any mold hyphae (roots) and prevents it from regrowing.Helpful 14
Do you need to clean the mold off first and then paint the borax on or can you just paint the borax on and that then takes care of the mold? Will painting the borax on wood keep mold from growing again? This is in a crawlspace under a house on joists.
Can I use borax for mold in a garage door?
Yes, as long as you are not impeding moving parts.Helpful 7
I am using borax on wood in an RV. Would you treat it more than once or have it tested before recovering? What about sanding any of the moldy spots?
Testing would be an excellent step! I do not see any value to sanding. The mold hyphae (roots) are deep in the wood. If you can replace the wood entirely and paint it before you cover it, that would be very good.Helpful 2
© 2012 Maren Elizabeth Morgan