Borax on Wooden Joists for Mold Treatment
Kill Mold with Borax "Paint"
Bad Mold in Homes
Perhaps one can expect to find a little mold in any home, especially a home with a basment or which is located in a humid climate. However, there is such a thing as too much mold. When you are challenged with the latter situation and cannot afford outside mold remediation services, one of the DIY options is to kill the mold with the detergent booster Borax (TM).
Step One: Personal Protective Gear
Do not be casually confident that you are a healthy person and your immune system can defend itself. Be safe, not sorry. Buy a face mask and borrow or buy goggles.
The face mask recommended for mold removal is called a respirator, which sounds more ominous than it really is. The P100 or N95 mask is what is required. These are made by several companies and have varying features. I love the 3-M N95 with a nostril valve. It allows for better exhalation and stays dry. Once I bought a cheaper N95 which had no nostril valve. It complied with the NIOSH standards, but the moisture in my exhaled breath condensed on the inside of the mask and I was feeling a damp mess on my chin.
I normally wear glasses which have saved my eyes from injury many a time as I do carpentry or gardening. However, my mold consultant strongly recommended eye goggles for anyone working above her own head. Naturally, painting a ceiling has one working overhead. So, I bought and used goggles which turned out to be very comfortable and not vision-obscuring.
My hair protection is merely an old ratty white T-shirt turned inside out as if I was pulling it off, but got stuck around my face. (Didn't you ever do this when you were a child?) I pulled the long ends in front of my neck and used a safety pin to attach them.
Completing the gear are an old long-sleeved shirt and long pants and plastic clogs (socks, too.) I launder them separately from any other clothing.
Personal Safety is Paramount
Step Two: Prepare the Area
Identify the moldy area and brush or sweep away loose debris. Bag this and dispose. Then vacuum the same area, preferably with a HEPA vacuum cleaner. If you need to set up work lights, do this now. Also, gather any ladders or stepstools you will need for the painting job. If you can open windows or doors to provide yourself with fresh air and ventilation.
Step Three: Make the Borax Paint
Finding Borax in stores may be a bit of a project for you. It is considered a laundry product, so go to the clothes washing aisle of your stores. I have found it at a big box store (thank you, Supreme Being!) but usually there is only one box on a bottom shelf. If you find a large supply, I recommend that you purchase a box for every 300 square feet which you plan to treat.
Why Borax? It is not toxic to you, the homeowner, and it is effective in klilling mold. All the safety equipment described above is for protection from the mold, not from the cleaning agent.
The recipe given is one cup of Borax dissolved in one gallon of water. HOWEVER - I found two problems with that. The first is that is is cumbersome for me to haul a 1-gallon container of Borax paint up a ladder to paint the underside of wooden sub-flooring. The more important reason for changing this, though, is because Borax is not the easiest material to dissolve. Or, to stay dissolved.
Therefore, I use 1/2 cup to 2 quarts of water - BOILING WATER, that is. I put the dry powdered Borax in a manageable sized 2+ quart saucepan (another advantage is the handle - ease of carrying around) and then pour in boiling water from a teakettle and stir. This at least starts the paint as fully dissolved. Some Borax will eventually settle to the bottom of the saucepan before I am done painting, but it is nothing compared to what sits at the bottom when I have used cold tap water. Since I work in either unheated or barely heated areas, the paint cools quickly and I am not in danger of burning my skin with scalding water.
Preparing the Borax Mixture
Step Four: Paint the Ceiling and Joists with Borax
Cover every bit you can reach with your "paint." It looks rather clear, more like cloudy water than an opaque white. When it dries, it will look much more white.
Good luck to you
I hope this helps those beleagured with weather- and disaster-related wetness. Please comment to let me know how it goes for you.
Photos and text copyright 2012 Maren E. Morgan (who rather wishes she was not becoming an expert in this area of knowledge.)