How to Prevent Fabric Color Transfer, Bleeding, and Fading
Why Do Fabrics Bleed, Crock and Fade?
Firstly, let’s begin with the basic terminology.
Crocking is the color transfer that occurs when fabric rubs against something, such as furniture, shoes, or skin. This happens when the dye has not properly adhered to the fabric. An example of this that I’m sure we can all attest to is jeans (which I will discuss more in detail later in this article).
Color bleed occurs when the fabric gets wet and dye leaches out of the fibers. This commonly occurs in the washing machine and can result in color transfer between items in the load.
Color fading is when the fabric has lost much of its dye and therefore lacks vibrancy and depth of color.
There are a number of reasons for the dye to crock, bleed and fade. For example:
- Poor quality dye
- Incorrect dying technique
- Incorrect dye used for the type of fabric (not all dyes work on all kinds of fabrics)
- An excess of dye left in the product because the item was not properly rinsed out during the dying process
- The manufacturer has not used fixer or ‘mordant’ to bind the dye to the fabric
- The mordant has washed out of the fabric due to prolonged hot washing and so is no longer holding the dye to the fibers
- 'Wear and tear': friction between fabrics that can cause micro-breakages in the fibers and lead to the release of dye
- Bleaching, which can be caused by the fabric's exposure to bleaching products, heat, and/or sun.
What Is a Mordant?
A mordant is a substance that is used to set dyes on fabrics.
How to Prevent Fabric Color Bleeding, Crocking, and Fading
A common myth circulating the internet is that washing the item in either vinegar or salt “sets” the dye and prevents it from running. Unfortunately, this is not true. Although vinegar does help set some acid dyes, it only works during the dyeing process and not for cotton dyes. Similarly, salt is used in the dying process to encourage the fiber to take the dye, but it will not stop the color from running or crocking after the garment has been dyed. If you tried it and it appeared to work, then it's only because the additional washing has removed the last bits of the unattached dye. The only real ways to prevent color transferring and fading are the following:
- Do loads of laundry that are the same color and be aware that it’s not just new clothes that run. The chemical fixers or mordants used to hold the dye to the fiber can wear off after repeated washing, so always wash similar colors together to prevent color run, regardless of the age of the garment and how many times you may have washed it before.
- Many of us over-wash our clothes for fear of been seen as dirty or smelly, but with delicate clothes you should try to wash as little as necessary. Before washing an item, ask yourself: “Is it really dirty, and does it really need to be washed?” If it only has an odor, try airing it or using an odor eliminating product like Febreze. If it’s only dirty in a small area, then spot clean it.
- Wash with cool or cold water. Hot water tends to open up the fibers of the fabric which encourages the dye to escape and run. If you live in a very cold area, the water may get too cold during the winter so you may need to set the washer to “warm” 30ºC (86ºF). Make sure you are using a detergent that is designed to perform in cold water.
- The friction that occurs during a wash cycle can cause micro-breakages in the fibers and lead to the release of dye. This is one of the reasons why you see fading in fabrics over time. You can minimize this friction by washing heavy items like jeans in a load together. Also, fasten zippers and hooks and turn items inside out. This is particularly effective with jeans.
- For clothes that fade quickly like jeans, use a short wash or a gentle cycle to help reduce friction.
- Try using a color catcher product such as in your wash. The sheets are designed to absorb and trap loose dyes, but be aware that they are not completely failsafe. Washing with like colors is the only way to prevent color transfer. Shout color catcher sheets
- Don’t leave wet clothes in a pile or sitting in the machine for too long as this gives the colors time to leech out.
- Dry your clothes in the shade as the sun can act as a bleach, and try not to use the dryer.
- If your garment has heavily bled and become discolored despite following the care instructions, then you should consider returning the item for a refund.
- For faded clothes with plenty of wear left in them, try re-dying the item using the home kits that are available.
Simply by turning my clothes inside out during the washing and drying process and using cool water, there is a significant color difference between the inside and outside of my clothes. The inside becomes much more faded than the outside. This process helps maintain vibrancy much longer, greatly extending the life of my garments.
Does Vinegar and Salt Prevent Colors From Crocking?
No. This is a myth. With certain fabrics it does help during the dying process itself, but not afterward, once the dye has supposedly set.
Color Bleeding, Crocking and Fading in Jeans
I’m sure we've all had those embarrassing and frustrating experiences when jeans have crocked blue onto our legs and hands. I've had many clothes and shoes ruined (even my favorite cream knee-high Ugg boots), not to mention the mortifying moment when I realized that I had dyed my friend’s expensive white couch blue.
The indigo dye used in blue jeans is applied using a purposely inferior dyeing practice called ring dyeing. This method only affects the outer ring of the cotton fiber, leaving the inside core white, so after a small amount of wear and tear, this top layer of dyed fiber wears off to expose the white undyed yarn. This enables us to “wear” in our jeans and achieve the perfect “worn” look. This method is also used in jeans that are sold as pre-washed or pre-worn because it’s easy to create an instant age effect using a little abrasion.
The downside to all of this of course is that it makes the jeans crock and bleed.
A recent desire for unfaded jeans has not necessarily led to a change in the manufacturers' dyeing practices and many dark jeans are poorly dyed. This is partly due to the fact that indigo is a difficult dye to work with, especially for cotton (it works better with wool and silk). This is because it needs repeated applications in multiple dye baths using the correct equipment, techniques, and a good understanding of chemistry. Due to these complexities, it is often done poorly.
Ultimately, this means that unless your jeans were dyed correctly, then some crocking and fading are bound to occur, no matter what you do.
Denim Fade Types
Tate-ochi or “vertical falling” is the forming of faded vertical lines. This occurs when the thread width is not uniform. The color fades most where the thread is the thickest and that thread creates a white line.
Atari is the term used to describe the fading that occurs on your jeans with age. But it doesn’t stop there—the fading that appears in each part of the jeans has its own terminology:
- Thigh and crotch wear: Whiskers
- Ankle wear: Stacks
- Back of knees wear: Honeycombs
How to Prevent Jeans From Bleeding, Crocking, and Fading
Place the jeans in a very hot wash to remove the unattached particles of dye. Set the washing machine's temperature setting to its highest (usually 90ºC or 194ºF). This won’t work in the worst cases, and will only help if the dyeing was done reasonably well.
Of course, this won’t help preserve the original dark color of the denim and may in fact accelerate its loss, so only do this for the first wash.
Can I Use a Fixative?
Fixatives may not work on denim. Products like Retayne work well on many types of dye, but not on the indigo used to dye most denim.
The only way that fixatives can help is if your jeans have been dyed using direct dye, another kind of cotton dye. It can also work with fiber reactive dye that has not been properly fixed to the fabric. Unfortunately, there is usually no way of knowing what kind of dye was used, but it doesn’t hurt to try. Fixatives are more likely to help in cases where the denim has been dyed other colors such as a blue-black, black, green, or brown.
Unlike Retayne, the websites of Raycafix and Dharma dye fixatives claim to help keep indigo darker longer. Despite the science suggesting otherwise, it may be worth a try.
Retayne Color Fixative
Retayne Color Fizative is for commercially dyed cotton, linen and rayon fabrics that bleed. Simply use in the washing machine or treat by hand washing with hot water. Note: This product does not work with indigo, so it won't prevent most jeans from fading.
Unfortunately there is no way to make the indigo in jeans stay dark forever. The only way to prevent the indigo from fading is to apply it correctly in the first place. However, the color will stay darker longer if you always wash your jeans following the instructions as discussed above. When the garment has lost too much color, you could also consider re-dying it. For dark jeans, you can achieve a dark blue color by using a mix of blue and black dye.
How to Remove Color Run and Bleeding From Fabrics
First of all, don't panic. There are a number of steps that can be taken before it’s relegated to the “can only wear around the house” pile. Be aware that dark clothing utilizes dark dyes that can be especially difficult to remove.
- Don’t toss the stained item aside to deal with later because when it dries, the dye “sets,” making it very difficult to remove.
- Treat the item with powdered oxygen bleach like Seventh Generation Natural Oxy Stain Remover.
- Make a solution of ½ scoop of oxy bleach to 2 cups of warm water. You may need to make a greater quantity if you have a number of affected items.
- Spread this concentrated mix over the stained areas and allow it to penetrate for 5 minutes.
- While your items are soaking, dissolve two additional scoops of the oxy bleach powder into a bucket with a little warm water.
- Once dissolved, stir in 4 liters (1 gallon) of cool water and place the items into the bucket to soak for one to five hours, depending on how heavily stained they are.
- This process may need to be repeated if not all traces of dye have been removed.
What to Look for When Shopping
- Feel the cloth's texture before purchasing. Does it feel kind of stiff and crunchy? This indicates that there may be excess dye left in the fabric. Be aware that you will need to wash this item several times to remove the excess dye and that this could leave it a lighter color.
- Read the label for warning words such as “Turn inside out to launder,” “Wash in cold water,” and “Color may fade.” These are signs that the manufacturer knows the dyes are unstable. This doesn’t just apply to dark fabrics—these warnings can appear on a range of fabrics and colors because it’s dependent on what type of dye process was used. This shouldn’t prevent you from buying the item, but at least you will know what to expect.
- Fabrics like polyester and jersey knits are usually more resistant to bleeding than more delicate materials. The fabrics least likely to run are those made of synthetics, because the color is added to the fibers while they are being created.
Crews, Patricia Cox. Effectiveness of Dye Setting Treatments on Cotton Fabrics Dyed with Direct, Reactive, and Vat Dyes. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 7(4) Summer 1989, 1-7.
© 2015 C L Mitchell