How to Adjust Your Door Closer - Dengarden - Home and Garden
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How to Adjust Your Door Closer

Tom has 17 years experience as a commercial locksmith and over 20 years in door hardware distribution.

door-closer-adjustment

Door closer adjustment is an art that requires knowledge, patience, and an ability to climb up and down a ladder several times, but with these attributes and the appropriate wrench, hex key, or screwdriver, you can do it yourself. This article is primarily about surface-mounted door closers, but the ideas here can be applied to other kinds of door closers as well.

Most of the adjustments are implemented by opening and closing hydraulic valves. When it comes to turning the screws that operate these valves, a little goes a long way. A turn of five degrees can significantly increase or decrease closing speed.

How Door Closers Work

door-closer-adjustment

A door closer is a mechanical device designed to close a door slowly but firmly enough to latch. It accomplishes this by using spring tension modulated by hydraulic fluid. As the user opens the door, hydraulic fluid passes from one reservoir to another. As the spring pushes the door closed again, the hydraulic fluid passes back to the previous reservoir through a series of valves that control the speed.

The illustration above shows the effects of the common hydraulic adjustment controls available on most commercial grade door closers. Controls for swing speed and latching speed control how fast the door closes. Many closers also feature a hydraulic control for back check that controls the last few inches of the opening the door so as to prevent the door from being slammed into an adjacent wall.

  • Swing speed adjustment controls how fast the door closes from fully open to within about five degrees of closed.
  • Latching speed adjustment controls how fast the door closes for those last few inches.
  • Back check adjustment controls the amount of resistance to opening the door past a selected point.

The illustration below shows the various hydraulic control valves. These might be located in many configurations, but you will usually see the back check control located somewhat away from the latch speed and swing speed controls.

There are also door closers equipped with an additional valve for delayed action. Delayed action closers hold the door open for a longer period of time to allow persons with disabilities more time to get through the door.

Control Valve Placement

door-closer-adjustment

Notice the spring tension adjustment in the illustration above. Spring tension controls the "size" of a closer. The term is misleading because it does not actually have anything to do with the physical dimensions of the closer. This type of size is determined by the width of a door. "Sized" closers—that is, closers that have a factory pre-determined spring tension for a particular door width—have no spring tension adjustment. Many door closers today are "non-sized," indicating that you can adjust the spring tension to fit the size of the door.

It is tempting to use the spring tension adjustment to solve problems—for example, in positive pressure situations where air flow is preventing the door from closing properly. However, the tighter you make the spring, the harder it will be to open the door. It is possible to tighten the spring tension so that some people will not be able to open the door.

Making an Adjustment

door-closer-adjustment

To adjust the door closer:

  • Bring a step ladder tall enough so that you can easily reach the door closer from the second- or third-highest step.
  • Climb the ladder and examine the closer. If you can't see adjustment screws, chances are the closer has a cover. Usually, the cover is plastic, but it could also be metal. If you see no fasteners holding the cover on, that means the cover is held on by tension. Pull it off. If you do see fasteners, usually you can loosen, but not remove, the fasteners and the cover will slide off.
  • If you find that there is oil in the cover or oil on or leaking from the closer body, stop right now. You need a new door closer. If, however, it is not leaking, you can proceed.
  • Now that you have the cover off, you should be able to see the adjustment screws. If you are lucky, they will be marked on the closer body as to what they are, or there will be a diagram inside the cover. If not, you may have to experiment a little to see which is which.
  • Remember, when it comes to turning door closer adjustment screws, a little goes a long way. Start with no more than 1/8 of a turn. Turn the adjustment screw clockwise to slow the door closer down, counter-clockwise to speed it up, then get down off the ladder and observe the effect.
  • Open the door and watch it close. If it closes right the first time, check it 10 more times. If it closes correctly every time, you're done. If not, go back up the ladder and make another adjustment, until the closer is doing what you want it to do.
  • When it closes the way you want 10 times in a row, it will probably continue to do so.
  • Ideally, a non-delayed action door closer will close and latch the door in seven to eight seconds.

Problems and Trouble Shooting

  • If you expect a door closer to consistently close the door, the door must be able to close properly. If there is a hinge problem, a warped door, or the door must swing uphill to close; a door closer will only go so far to solve the problem. Sometimes a door must be repaired before it will close and lock automatically with a door closer.
  • In vestibule conditions, there is an exterior door, a small space, and then an interior door. The trapped air between the inside and outside door can be a factor in door closing. You may have to adjust both closers to get both to work correctly. Wherever air pressure is a factor, including negative or positive pressure situations, I have have been able to get door closers to close and latch the door consistantly by adjusting them to a slow swing-speed and a somewhat fast latch-speed. The slow swing-speed seems to give the air a chance to get out of the way, and the fast latch speed gives it a very slight slam at the end to make sure it latches.
  • If the closer stops closing the door before it's closed all the way, or actually springs back when you try to manually shut the door, the arm is probably installed on the shaft incorrectly. Download the instructions from the door closer manufacturer's web site and see if it is installed correctly.
  • If the arm makes noise and bounces up and down while the door is in motion, tighten the fasteners that hold the arm to the closer, to the header, and at the knuckle that holds the two parts of the arm together.

When it's time to replace your door closer:

  • If oil is leaking from your door closer, throw it away and buy a new one.
  • If your door closer is slamming the door and cannot be adjusted to do otherwise, either the fluid has leaked out, or the valve seals are worn out. Either way, your best option is to replace it.
  • If the door closer has no spring tension and the spring tension adjustment turns round and round with no effect, the spring is broken the door closer must be replaced.

This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.

Questions & Answers

Question: What if you install the door closer device and the door is really hard to open?

Answer: All door closers exert force against opening. If the force needed to open the door is excessive, and the spring tension of the door closer is adjustable, the level of force exerted by the spring can be reduced. Some door closers have preset spring tension. These have sizes according to the strength of their spring. For example, on an exterior door that is three feet wide, one would usually use a size four door closer. If one used that same closer on a door that is thirty inches wide, one might find that opening the door has become difficult.

Another reason the door closer might make the door hard to open is that it is installed incorrectly. For example, if the arm were attached to the spindle in the wrong position, or if the closer was installed in the wrong location, it might make the door hard to open.

Question: My Dorma RTS85 door closer is slamming. I have tried tightening both of the screws as per the manual, but it is still slamming. Would you have any tips on this before I consign it to the bin and order a new one? There are no leaks anywhere, but this has been slamming since long before I started, and this is on an old warehouse door.

Answer: Sometimes, even if a door closer has not lost any fluid, its speed adjustment valves malfunction. It has always been my choice, if a closer cannot be adjusted, to replace it with one that can be adjusted.

Question: My tenant is complaining that the door is too heavy to open. What adjustment is needed?

Answer: The two most likely possibilities are: 1) excessive spring tension or 2) incorrect installation.

Door closer spring tension is either adjustable or fixed. To find out which kind of closer you have, you'll need to identify the make and model and then download the install instructions from the manufacturer's web site. If the closer has adjustable spring tension it will say so in the install instructions and also tell you how to adjust it. If your closer has no spring tension adjustment the install instructions may show how to locate the closer differently on the door to decrease the tension. Also, using the install instructions and a tape measure you can tell if your closer is installed incorrectly. If it is installed incorrectly this could also affect the spring tension.

Question: How do you adjust a door closer so it'll hold the door open?

Answer: For your door closer to hold the door open it must have a hold-open mechanism. In double lever arm (common) door closers this feature is in the arm. In track closers (less common) it is in the track. Most door closer manufacturers offer arms separately, so if you want to change your door closer from one that does not have a hold-open to one that does, you can replace the standard arm with a hold-open arm, and that will do it.

If you already have a door closer with a hold-open feature, it may be adjustable. Often with hold-open door closers there is a large nut on the shoe. The nut is tightened by the swinging open of the door and loosened when it closes. One can adjust the nut so that when the door is opened to a certain degree, the nut is tightened sufficiently by the opening of the door to hold the door open at that degree of opening.

Question: Why, when trying to use my door opener, is it too heavy to work?

Answer: Two reasons come to mind: 1) the spring strength is too strong, 2) the closer is installed incorrectly.

The first two steps in solving either problem is to 1) identify the door closer and 2) get the installation instructions for your particular make and model of door closer.

If you find that the spring tension is adjustable, you can probably adjust the closer so that the door is easier to open. If you find that the spring tension is not adjustable, your closer may be the wrong size for your door and you will need to replace it if you want to improve the situation. I suggest you replace it with a closer that has adjustable spring tension.

If your closer is installed incorrectly, you may be able to use the installation instructions to help you correct the installation. This may mean simply taking the arm off and placing it back on in the right position according to the instructions, or it might me relocating the closer according to the measurements given in the instructions.

It could be that the spring tension was adjusted to be as strong as it is deliberately to overcome some problem. For example, if your building has positive air pressure, as many buildings do nowadays, perhaps the closer was made so strong so it could overcome the air pressure. Or, perhaps the door does not swing right. If there is some resistance because the hinges are bent or rusty, for example, or if the door rubs against the frame, it could be the closer was given more strength to avoid dealing with the real problem.

In either of these cases, if you decreased the spring tension, perhaps the closer would no longer have the strength to close the door. You would then have to see if you could fix the root of the problem before you adjusted the spring tension.

Question: What do I do if I have the screws out of my door closer as far as they go, but it still is not closing? The back pressure is still holding it open. I am almost wanting to slam it closed.

Answer: Air pressure is a powerful force. Often I have found in a vestibule situation, the inner door simply will not close properly while the outer door is closing. One has to slow down the swing speed and speed up the latch speed so that the door closer can ease the door closed against the air that is trying to escape from the vestibule.

If your door closer must close the door against air pressure generated by the building ventilation system, this is a much harder nut to crack. You may be able to get it to close by the same method - slow swing speed and fast latching speed - but it could be that no hydraulic door closer will do the job. Even if you put the most powerful door closer on the door, such that it's actually hard to open the door - which, BTW, will not meet the American Disabilities Act requirements - it still may not quite do the job.

If you hire a professional automatic door company to install a high energy power operator, they will probably be able to adjust this more powerful device so that it shuts the door every time without hurting anyone.

But the best solution is to dial back the positive pressure generated by the building ventilation system. One might suggest to their facilities manager, maybe it doesn't have to be so strong that it compromises security.

Question: My Russwin Door closer has been working properly for several years, and now it doesn’t return all the way. Why is this?

Answer: Sounds like it might be a broken main spring to me.

Question: My door began slamming over the past four to six months, and there's a trail of this sticky mess dripping down the glass door and collecting like black tar on the threshold under the door closer. Can I assume that the sticky black mess, which is nearly impossible to remove, is indeed either oil or hydraulic fluid?

Answer: Yes, I think your diagnosis is absolutely correct!

Question: My door closer says "1, 2, BC." What do the "1" and "2" stand for?

Answer: I think you are referring to numbers that appear next to the speed adjustment screws. The numbers are there because they are referred to in the installation instructions. Identify the manufacturer, find the install instructions and your mystery will be solved.

Question: How much pressure/pull is acceptable for a door used by the public?

Answer: Acceptable interior door opening force, according to the American Disabilities Act, is 5 pounds of pressure. Exterior doors are not regulated in the latest version of ADA, but local authorities have requirements ranging from 5 to 15 pounds of force required to open the door.

With exterior doors, opening force compliance and security concerns may be at odds. Since opening force and closing force are the same thing, a door closer adjusted to comply with opening force standards may not exert the closing force necessary to consistently close and latch the door.

Question: Can I re-fill the hydraulic fluid if it has leaked out of my door closer?

Answer: It is possible, but it requires materials and expertise. The hydraulic fluid leaked for a reason: either the closer body has a crack (in which case it would just leak out again), or more likely one of the hydraulic seals (o-rings) has given out. So to fix a leaky closer, you need to completely disassemble the closer, replace the offending part, and then replace the fluid. It is also essential to put in the right amount of fluid, no more, no less, so be sure to consult with the manufacturer.

Some companies do this work. Often companies that have "door closer" or "door check" in their name rebuild door closers.

Question: My Yale pot-type closer has far too much force on the swing, but slows down for latch. Probable cause/how to proceed?

Answer: It sounds like your closer has a fast swing speed and a more normal latching speed. It also sounds like you probably know how to adjust the swing speed, but it will not adjust. If these two assertions are true, perhaps the swing speed valve seal is failing or the valve itself is worn out. This typically occurs in closers that have been in service for several years, or in closers that are defective. Another possibility is that the closer has lost some of its hydraulic fluid, but since the fluid usually drips down the face of the door when it escapes, this cause is easier to detect.

If the seals or valves are failing, or if the door closer is leaking, it is probably time to replace or rebuild the door closer.

Question: My house door has a concealed door closer. It makes a loud sound whenever it closes. How can I fix it?

Answer: Many hydraulic concealed door closers have the same kinds of adjustments found on surface mounted hydraulic door closers. Often there will be holes in the cover plate that allow access to the adjustment screws. Sometimes one must remove the cover plate to find the adjustment screws.

Concealed hydraulic door closers suffer the same malfunctions as surface hydraulic door closers. They leak, or the seals wear out, and then they can no longer be adjusted and tend to slam the door hard. And, like surface closers, they can be rebuilt or replaced.

Since concealed closers are often expensive, some folks elect to replace the closer with a pivot hinge and install a surface door closer.

Question: I have a door closer LCN 1460-71 that holds open at about 180 degrees. How do I prevent the hold open feature?

Answer: If your LCN 1461 has a hold open that holds open automatically, it is probably a 1461-HW/PA (hold open with parallel arm bracket) that has the 1460-3049 hold open arm. This arm has a large adjustment nut on the shoe. This is not the small nut toward the middle of the forearm that attaches the forearm. Turn the hold open adjustment nut slightly counterclockwise and your problem should disappear.

If you have a 1461T track closer the hold open is a clip in the track that captures the roller on the arm. The clip can be removed and the closer will no longer hold open.

If your door closer does not have a hold open arm it may be that the arm is binding when the door is fully open because of an installation error or other minor malfunction. Download the LCN 1460 installation instructions to see if the closer is mounted in the right place on the door to properly allow for 180 degree opening. Check the top of the door for rub marks. The arm should have no contact with the top of the door.

Question: how much hydraulic fluid is in a corbin series 120 door closer?

Answer: I'm no authority on that, having never put hydraulic fluid into any closer. Since it's been out of production for some years, I think it would be difficult to find out how much fluid it takes. I've adjusted many door closers, but I have not rebuilt any. RBAdoor.com says the DC6210 replaced the 120, so perhaps you can use specs for the DC6210 as a guide if you are rebuilding a 120.

Question: What exactly are the specs for adjusting a door closure to ADA requirements?

Answer: I have found that local authorities often differ in their enforcement of the American Disabilities Act. Check with your local Authority Having Jurisdiction to be sure.

This from ADATA.org:

"Interior doors should require no more than 5 lbs. of force to open. This does not apply to the initial force needed to overcome the weight of a motionless door. Open the door gradually; do not “jerk” it open.

Opening force for exterior doors is not specified in the ADA Standards, but exterior doors that need to be accessible should have the minimum force possible. Typical maximum opening force for exterior doors ranges from 8.5 to 10 lbs. Any door so heavy that it prevents entrance by people with disabilities may deny them access to goods and services, which is covered under the ADA. Also, state or local government codes may have specific accessibility requirements for exterior doors.

The closing, or swing speed must not be faster than five seconds. The closing or swing distance is from the open position at 90 degrees to 12 degrees from the latch. Latching speed isn’t specified, but should be fast enough to latch the door but not slam it."

Question: How can we make our LCN door closer open farther?

Answer: The degree of opening is adjustable - to an extent. If your closer is mounted on the door on the push or pull side, you can download the install instructions from Allegion. They will show you how to adjust the degree of opening. It may mean changing the location of the closer body and arm shoe.

If your closer is mounted on the header above the door, then you may have to purchase a longer arm. With top jam mounting, the degree of opening is most affected by the depth of the "reveal" - that is, the distance between the inside surface of the door frame and the surface of the door.

Question: We replaced the door closer on the office front door but the door keeps opening when its windy outside. What can we do to fix the problem with the door?

Answer: Wind can be a difficult problem to solve. If your door closer has a spring adjustment, you can make it stronger. You will need the manufacturer's instructions to see if and how this can be done. Otherwise you can replace the closer you just replaced with one that can be adjusted. Or you can replace it with a door closer that is not adjustable but has the most powerful spring that is available, such as the LCN 4016 or 4116. The "6" on the end of the number indicates a size 6 spring - the most powerful. However, even a size 6 closer may not be strong enough, and the other side of the coin is that the more powerful the spring, the harder it becomes to open the door.

Depending on the degree of opening at which the wind takes your door, you may be able to solve or at least mitigate the problem by using an overhead stop. This will stop the door from opening too far. Be aware, however, that to comply with the American Disabilities Act your door must provide 32 inches of clear opening. A normal 36 inch wide door complies only when it is opened to an angle of 90 degrees.

If the wind is blowing your door open from a completely closed position, then you need a latch on your door to hold it closed.

Question: Why does my door closer suddenly change speed? It goes slow, stops, and then goes fast.

Answer: It seems to me your door closer has the standard two-valve speed adjustment system. One valve controls the speed for the first part of the swing, and the other valve controls the last part of the swing. These can be set any number of ways - fast, then slow, or slow, then fast, or both slow, or both fast, and many settings in between these variations. The only mysterious part is, why does it stop? If it were going very fast, then slow, that would indicate to me it has probably lost some hydraulic fluid; but since it is going slow, then fast, I think one or both valves may be malfunctioning.

If you can identify the make and model of your door closer, you can probably download the installation instructions for it. These instructions will include how to adjust the valves. Adjusting the speed valves is often a trial-and-error process. The important thing to remember is to turn either valve just a tiny bit, then test it. Repeat until you achieve the proper results. Never turn a valve so far that it comes out of the closer body.

Question: Our church has multiple door closers of different makes. Some lack any labels or identifying marks that I can find. How can I identify the make and model of our door closers in order to look up instructions for adjusting them?

Answer: I think you will need to enlist the help of a professional, but the definitive identifying feature tends to be the mounting screws. Take photos of each door closer with the cover on, the cover off, and then with a tape measure or ruler showing the center-to-center dimensions, vertical and horizontal, between the mounting screws. Using this information, the door hardware professional can get an idea of the manufacturer from the closer's appearance and then verify the particular model by the screw pattern.

Question: The "Hold Open" feature on my door closer failed after some lubricant was applied. How do I regain that aspect?

Answer: It sounds like you have a friction hold-open arm, and somebody lubed the friction hold-open knuckle. Because this kind of hold open works due to friction, and the purpose of lubrication is to eliminate friction - well, you can see the problem.

Hopefully you will be able to download a parts breakdown of your door closer with enough detail to see if the hold open knuckle on your closer can be disassembled. If you can disassemble it, try removing the lubricant from all parts using a small amount of solvent (like turpentine) and a rag. If you cannot get inside the knuckle to do this, try to clean it as much as you can from outside, and then use a heat gun on a low setting to dry it out. That might work.

Question: I am trying to make a door closer for my project. All the work is done besides figuring out a specific speed setting: after multiple cycles, my door closer starts to lose the speed of it's motion without me having made any changes to the valve setting. What is a possible solution?

Answer: There are a few factors at play. First, there is the hydraulic fluid. As the door closer cycles, the fluid is compressed, and its temperature and/or viscosity may change. Second, the o-rings in the valves may change position, compress or expand if they are too elastic or of two small a gauge. Also the valves may not provide an adequate seat to the o-ring, allowing it to flex out of position, and significant air temperature changes in the door closer's environment may affect the closer's behavior. Air in the cylinder with the hydraulic fluid can make the door closer behave unpredictably as well.

© 2008 Tom rubenoff

Comments

Tom rubenoff (author) from United States on June 21, 2020:

First, identify your door closer. Then, find the installation instructions online, if possible. The installation instructions will tell you whether the spring tension of the closer is adjustable. If it is, adjust it according to the instructions.

If your door closer is not adjustable it may be an incorrect choice for your door. Measure the width of the door, and then shop for a new door closer that is either adjustable for spring tension or is sized appropriately for your door.

Hitender on June 20, 2020:

My door is too hard to open look what I do

DINESH on April 10, 2020:

THANKS.... SOLVED PROBLEM USING YOU IDEA... WAS GETTIING DOOR CLOSED VERY SPEEDLY. I RESOLVED THE ISSUE USING YOUR GUIDE.

Jess the Door Closer Doctor on February 14, 2020:

Hello Jose,

I have heard of this happening, it's a few different things that can cause a closer to get stuck half way, if there is nothing stuck in the doorway, it usually is a clogged passageway, bad bearing or old fluid in the closer that lsot it's lubrication properties and causing friction between body and piston inside closer

You can try adjusting it alittle faster (if its a clog)but will help short term, it is highly recommended to have the closer rebuilt (if it was an expensive one) or replaced.

I rebuild door closers

-Jess

José on February 13, 2020:

My door is doesn’t close is stop in the middle need help

Quentin on October 15, 2019:

Is it possible to change the swing/closing direction on a Ryobi Doorman door closer?

Ida Marnoch on August 16, 2019:

Hello, I need some advice please, I am sleep deprived due to working 12 hr night shift & the neighbours slamming the doors so hard that it feels like an earthquake & wakes me up & I can't go back to sleep... this happens numerous times every day & it's starting to make me ill. One neighbour said he has a spring on his door which causes it to close hard. Would a pneumatic or hydraulic door closer stop the slamming from being so hard? Which one is better? I also saw a damper from Justor, would that be better? And which tradesperson should I look for to fit the door closer? I also don't know how I can convince the landlord or neighbour to let me fit it...

Tom Kennedy from Chelsea, MI on June 05, 2019:

I've recently purchased, mounted & adjusted a Tell DC100080 residential door closer (for a 90-degree swing). This model has a friction hold-open feature, which I wanted. Problem: The friction release point is at about the 50-degree point in the swing. I would like the friction-hold release point to be closer to 80-deg point. i.e. 10-deg less than full open. Can you tell me if this is possible with this unit, even if disassembly might be required? There is no external adjustment for this function. The manufacturer's support-clone was no help.

Tom rubenoff (author) from United States on April 08, 2019:

Well, unfortunately the short answer is "no." There was some talk years ago about a self-adjusting door closer, but it was just talk. The problem is really the principal of the spring and the hydraulics. One adjusts a door closer for certain conditions but then the conditions change. It's pretty normal to have to adjust a closer seasonally, but daily must really be a chore. A fully electro-mechanical power operator would be less susceptible to these pressure fluctuations, but not immune, and it would be expensive as well.

One of these days some clever person will come up with a self-adapting robot door closer.

Tyler Lasche on April 08, 2019:

I have an interior door that when it is cold out side the air flow in our building will cause the door to slam shut. When it is warm or hot outside the air pressure is so much that it cause the door to stay open. during the spring and Fall months I am changing the swing speed and the latching speed almost daily. Is there a door closer that would help me not have to change the swing speed or the latching speed so much? Any advice would be helpful.

Tom rubenoff (author) from United States on April 02, 2019:

Usually when I have seen this in the past it is because the shoe of the door closer is attached to the wooden casing on a wooden door frame. But since I don't know what your door frame is made of, I'm not so sure.

It could be that your door closer is equipped with a back check feature that causes a backward pressure designed to keep users from slamming the door into the wall. If the back check is adjusted very high it could cause what you describe.

To find out if your door closer has a back check valve, consult the installation instructions. These instructions can usually be downloaded from the manufacturer's web site.

Grant Hickey on March 31, 2019:

One of the screws is being ripped out of door frame when I open the door. Is there an adjustment I can make to the door closure to stop this or what can I do to fix this?

Tom rubenoff (author) from United States on January 16, 2019:

Wind can be a difficult problem. You may be able to adjust the spring tension so that it is stronger than the wind (at least part of the time) but then the door may be difficult to open. Sometimes you can use an overhead stop or other device to stop the door from opening to the degree that it catches the wind, but then your door may not open all the way. You will have to experiment and try to find something that works.

Of course, reversing the swing of the door would probably solve the problem, but doing so is usually difficult, impractical, against fire safety code, or impossible.

Dany on January 16, 2019:

The wind keeps the door open most of the time. What should I do?

Tom rubenoff (author) from United States on October 01, 2018:

While door closer hydraulic fluid has been improved over the years, it still can be affected by changes in temperature. In colder temperatures the fluid will tend to thicken up a bit, making the closer slow down.

david on September 29, 2018:

are closers affected by the emperature difference between garage and house?

John at work! on August 21, 2018:

Tom. Thank you for your effort anyway. Very much appreciated! Nice to know there are like-minded people in the world who take door-closing serious!

Tom rubenoff (author) from United States on August 21, 2018:

Unfortunately I could not find any installation instructions online for this closer. At Hafele I did find a written description of possible adjustments for this closer. According to what I read, this closer has no adjustment valves. The screw you mention seems to adjust closing force, not speed, but adjusting it may have an effect. The primary way to adjust the closing force, they say, is to reposition the closer on the door; that is, to unscrew it and move it toward or away from the hinge. That is an ugly idea. The way to adjust the latching speed, they say, is to reposition the arm; that is, to remove the arm from the spindle and re-install it at a different angle. This may have an effect, so I would suggest you try that. If that fails I would recommend replacing the closer rather than moving it and creating extra mounting holes.

John at work! on August 21, 2018:

I have a GEZE TS2000 and the door closes everytime with an almighty slam! Far too loud. Can I adjust this somehow so it closes alittle slower? Remove little round black gummy-cap and simply turn screw?!

Tom rubenoff (author) from United States on July 21, 2018:

The spring is indeed the thing that creates the pressure on the door. It is also the thing that shuts the door. With a door closer one tries to adjust the spring so that it shuts the door without exerting so much force that opening the door is difficult. A common mistake is to depend solely on the spring to make the door shut and latch. The object of adjusting the closer is to achieve a balance between spring tension and closing speed that allows the closer to shut the door reliably without exerting so much force that it makes the door difficult to open. The solution to your door closer problem may be to decrease the spring tension and slightly increase the latching speed.

Your reference to a "slot" makes me think you have a surface mounted track arm closer. This kind of closer is usually used when there is a space issue or when less closing force is desired.

John Holehouse on July 20, 2018:

Tom, I wonder if you know how to make the pressure on opening the door less and I also have a thump when the arms on top of the door reach the end of the slot. How much should you turn the end of the spring and have I over turned it which made the door heavy? Thanks for the article.

John

Tom rubenoff (author) from United States on April 28, 2018:

Many installers are using spring stop arms because the wind is destroying their standard parallel arms. Some companies make parallel arm closers in a size 6 spring strength, but since these are sized the spring tension is not adjustable and half the time either the end user replaces it or an inspector throws it off the job for non compliance with ADA. Many closers are field adjustable to size 5, so in many cases this is the best we can do.

Nick on April 27, 2018:

Not a fan of push side parallel mount bodybon door and arm on header w plate, but unfortunatley had to do this twice this week, but i feel it takes away from alot of strength of the closer on exterior doors but the job site condition allowed nothing else any tips?

Tom rubenoff (author) from United States on April 24, 2018:

Wow, great to hear! Door closers can be both the most gratifying and the most frustrating pieces in the door hardware game. Glad the article was helpful!

KerriC on April 24, 2018:

Thanks Tom! I fixed an office door which was slamming shut for months following your instructions. I would jump every time someone entered or exited from the door. Today is a much better day with no door slamming!

Tom rubenoff (author) from United States on February 10, 2018:

Thanks, George. I actually did not make this particular illustration, and I have to say it is difficult to see what part of the closer body I'm looking at, or who the manufacturer is. Nevertheless I think it helps reinforce the point that there are two closing speed adjustments to consider, each controlled by a separate adjustment valve screw. The best way to find out which screw is which is by consulting the manufacturer's installation instructions. The second best way is to carefully experiment with the screws, turning one at a time just a fraction of a turn and observing the effect.

George on February 10, 2018:

I think there is an error in the sketch above showing the screw # 2 adjustustment speed (see bottom left of the sketch): 2 should not read as 1 "First Speed Adjustment Screw" but should say "Second Speed Adjustment Screw"

Tom rubenoff (author) from United States on February 07, 2018:

I am not that familiar with Cal Royal, but sometimes door closers squeak when installed contrary to instructions. sometimes if there is a fancy molding around the door casing the door closer shoe ends up at an angle and the arm grates against the shoe. Or maybe the shoe is slightly crooked and the knuckle of the arm is binding. I would check the installations against the instructions.

Might be a dumb question on my part, but has anybody detached the closer to see if it's actually the hinges squeaking

Richard on February 07, 2018:

We have about 100 cal royal door closers in our church. Not a problem adjusting them, just that they all squeak when opening or closing. Have lubricated all the arm, no where else to lube. Please help

Jason on December 30, 2017:

Hey, this seems to be a really helpful thread. I installed a closer and the spring tension is backwards, meaning that the spring keeps the door open instead of closed. The spring tube is mounted towards the door, and I don't think the closer can be mounted another way. Any ideas on how to solve this problem?

Thanks,

Jason

Richard on October 29, 2017:

W Morgan - I also had a lot of trouble looking or the Britton 1004 (which seems to be pretty much the same) and found the 1003 instructions here - https://www.doorhardware-online.co.uk/uploads/1003... - hope it helps!

W Morgan on September 26, 2017:

Are there any ajustment screws on the briton 1003 door closer I can not see any. thanks

Alan Wiles on August 28, 2017:

I have a cheap Briton 121 door closer which works well but makes a loud graunching noise from I presume the spring inside the main unit on opening and closing. Is there any thing I can do to rectify this? The arm etc are all fitted correctly and the door is silent when I disconnect the closer.

LWII on June 06, 2017:

You say it should take 7-8 for the door to close. Is there an industry standard on this?

Chris on June 05, 2017:

Is there any way to adjust the arm (that pulls the door close) so that it doesn't rub the top of the door?

Jess the Door Closer Doctor on May 09, 2017:

Simeon,

To repair the door closer you will need to remove it from door and place vertically in a vise with valve end upwards, remove valve and slowly pour in a lightweight oil or transmission fluid while slowly working the arm back and forth to burp out the air and let in the oil, when no more air bubbles come out, place valve in closer then remount closer to the door adjust to your desired speed,

I hope this helps,

Simeon on May 08, 2017:

I got a door closer, while adjusting the speed the the adjustment screw looses and the oil spills, how do i fix it, what kind of oil or what grade of oil can I use to fill it back... Thank

dan on April 06, 2017:

can someone tell me how to remove the arms off of the closer??

the Owner wants to deactivate it but wants to leave the closer on the door because of the screw holes.

Mirek on February 08, 2017:

Hi, can I adjust a door closer to keep the door open 90 degrees?

Nomo open on February 06, 2017:

Finally got it. The body attached to the door was upside down. Once reversed, everything else turned inward when the door pulled open and shut firmly after loosening the adjustment screws slowly. Not as simple as I thought it would be.

Nomo Open on February 06, 2017:

Thanks for the response. I used the same mounting holes as the previous owner, because the door material is a hard steel that I don't have any tools capable of drilling into. I already returned one that was doing the same thing, and the hardware guys said it was too stiff to turn and was defective. I don't think that was the full issue, since this one is doing the same thing.

I have the body mounted on the right side of the door near the hinges on the right, and the arm and plate are attached to the top door frame, just to the left of the body. The arm attached to the body goes out on almost straight out at 45 deg angle but is just slightly tilted left. There's another option to have it angled even further left, but the arm attached to the door frame isn't short enough to connect at that angle. When I pull the door open, if the arm was going to move, it would move right, towards the hinges, based on how it moves when I manually turn it. Does that sound backwards? Not sure what else I can do here to correct it.

Jess the door closer doctor on February 03, 2017:

Nomo, sounds to me that you may have put it up backwards, or the spring may be too strong for the door material,

Always a good idea to test the door closer arm swing direction before mounting it, you want to make sure the arm will swing away from hinges when you pull against the spring, if it does, it may be the spring is too strong and may need to be adjusted and the bolts "thru-bolted" so the closer will not pull away from the door when opened,

I hope this helps,

-Jess the door closer doctor

Nomo Open on February 03, 2017:

I recently installed a door closer to almost exactly the same installation as the cartoon at the top of this page. I can't even get to the point of adjusting the speeds, because once it is fully installed the door will not open. If you try to pull with more force, the body attached to the door looks like it wants to lift up and away from the door from the bottom.

Hopefully that makes sense, but if it doesn't I could imagine if I pulled the door open in this situation, the bottom two screws of the body would rip out of the door. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Jess the door closer doctor on November 24, 2016:

Lee,

I would recommend googling about the access laws reguarding clear egress width the door and then measure it yourself, if door opens less then the code, you may want to contact the landlord and tell him or the council for your jurisdiction.

Another place to ask about access/fire egress is the fire brigade,

I hope this helps,

lee on November 23, 2016:

I live in an apartment block owned and managed by a local authority.

The door closing device on my floor was replace but the replacement device seems to be too small or not fitted properly, as it only open and closes at a 70-80 (guessing) degree angle. This has made it difficult to carry in shopping etc, but more significantly I am worried in terms of emergencies; for example ambulances and stretchers as my mother is currently battling illness.

We have asked on a number of accasions for this to be dealt with. Is there some legal/safety percedures that this is in breach of?

Tom rubenoff (author) from United States on November 07, 2016:

I have a few questions that I would need the answers for before I answer yours: What kind of door closer is it, and how are you trying to install it? How far do you need it to open? Perhaps you can post a web address for a picture that looks like your door closer?

Tame on November 06, 2016:

I have one of these door closers and I am not sure how to put it on. I am applying it to a exterior door but when I attached it the thing wasn't long enough. What I mean by that is that it does not attach to the other piece. So how/what can I do to make it long enough to fit?

Jess The door closer D on November 03, 2016:

Tom,

things to remember about Pre-load, if you have too much of it, you LOSE latch valve and your full swing is dependent on sweep screw,

most of the time a closer is preloaded from between 15 to 45 degrees when arm is mounted, depends on the angle of the pinion and how much travel it has,

Tom, about the door being stopped by closer due to it reached the end of the rack (piston) I have seen that and it means its OVER preloaded (too much)

about the door slamming and dampening, that is an indicator of loss of fluid, when a closer loses fluid it will speed up until about 45 degrees or almost all the way shut before it has enough fluid to dampen the movement of the door.

for a leaker, many options, refill it yourself, send it out and have it rebuilt or just buying a new one to replace it with,

hope this helps,

-Jess the door closer doctor

Tom rubenoff (author) from United States on November 02, 2016:

My first thought is that the arm not quite right. The latching and swing speeds are all based on the rotation of the spindle. If the spindle is rotated too far, or not far enough, all you might get is latching speed. That is to say, it ain't got that swing.

This could happen for a couple of reasons. The shoe might be installed contrary to the installation instructions. The forearm (the adjustable part of the arm) might be extended too far or not far enough. Or the spindle might be "pre-loaded" - that is, rotated with a wrench prior to arm installation in order to increase closing force.

Your best bet is to download the manufacturer's install instructions and make sure all is well with the screw locations. If the arm is pre-loaded, however, that may be because your closer does now have enough power without pre-loading to shut the door.

Often you can tell if an arm is pre-loaded if you find you can't open the door to a full 90 degrees because the closer stops it.

Another possibility is that over time your closer has lost a small amount of hydraulic fluid. The swing and latch speeds are controlled hydraulically, so if there is not enough fluid the closer may behave unpredictably.

Sudi on November 01, 2016:

I have a weird situation. The door closes correctly (sweep slow + latch fast) as long as the door is released from the full open position. But if the door is only partially opened and released, the sweep + latch are both too fast and the door just slams shut. What could be wrong?

Tom rubenoff (author) from United States on August 20, 2016:

Hi Noel,

Increasing the distance of the closer from the hinge will decrease the number of degrees the door will be able to swing. For example, if the door closer is designed to allow the door to swing open to 110 degrees when installed according to the instructions, it may only open to a 90- or 100-degree angle if installed further from the hinge. Also, the closing force of the closer will be slightly increased in the new position.

Noel on August 20, 2016:

Can the hinge to door closer distance be changed? The installation instructions are very precise. For the installation I am planning I need to move the body of the closer 25 mm further from the hinge to clear an obstruction. How will this affect the operation of the closer?

Thanks!

Tom rubenoff (author) from United States on August 17, 2016:

Jess, thanks so much again for your comments. Your knowledgeable answers are wonderful and much appreciated.

Freddie S on August 15, 2016:

Thank you so much, Jess. I moved the body of the closer 1 and 3/4 inches towards the hinge edge. I did not move the arm because I found that the door is easier to open the further away the arm is from the closer itself. It's now working exactly how I wanted....it's no longer staying open and the door opens quite easily. So, once again, thank you!

Jess the door closer doctor on August 05, 2016:

Freddy S,

Move body towards hinge edge of door, as for how many inches, I would say 1 inch at a time (25mm)

May also want to bring arm location nearer to hinge as well, or else it will still stay open,

Hope this helps,

-Jess the door closer doctor

Freddie S on August 04, 2016:

Thanks, Tom and Jeff. Yes I have the rack and pinion type. It's mounted in a standard installation (with the closer on the pull side of the door and the arm shoe on the frame above it). When you say to move the body of the closer nearer to the "edge of the door" do you mean closer to the hinge edge or the outside edge or top edge of the door? And, right now it doesn't close until it's about 70 degreees open; how many inches /centimeters should I shift it?

Jess The Door Closer Doctor on August 04, 2016:

Hello Freddie S.

from what I read, you are referring to the rack-and-pinion based hold open, there is a video on youtube that shows just how it works,

as for disabling it, you can mount closer body more closer to edge of door so it does not engage at the angle it is suppose to engage (most of them its at 90 degrees)

this video demonstrates the "rack-and-pinion" type hold open,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixsxn7N85OQ

the only other option other then adjusting placement of arm or length of forearm (if its adjustable) is to swap it out for another closer of same bolt hole locations that does not have the hold open function,

I hope this helps with understanding and how to get it to not hold open,

-Jess the door closer doctor

Tom rubenoff (author) from United States on August 04, 2016:

It is a common problem. Thank you for your comment!

Freddie S on August 02, 2016:

Great article, Tom and thank you! I have just read all the comments posted here and am very impressed with your knowledge and expertise. I'm a door closer novice -- I installed my first one today on our powder room door because guests always leave it open after use and I hate seeing the toilet from my kitchen! I just realized that my closer (inexpensive TELL brand) has a Hold Open feature I would like to disable. How can I determine what type of Hold Open mechanism mine has so I'll know whether or not the nut loosening you mentioned as a fix for this problem, is possible or not?

Jess the Door Closer Doctor on July 23, 2016:

Hudson 3331,

sounds to me that your problem is having to do with proper pre-loading of the arm, when properly pre-loaded, the arm should sit at a V from frame of door or with secondary arm at a 90 from face of door,

most of the closers will have a series of numbers and a mark on the square shaft of the closer, these are to help position the arm on the shaft according to what type of mounting you are putting the closer up as,

another thing that could cause the latch to just contact the frame instead of going in, closer spring too weak, to increase it (if this closer does NOT have a spring tension adjustment nut) you move the whole closer about 1 inch to inch and half more away from hinge to give the closer a better advantage to closing (and latching) the door

hope this helps!

-Jess the door closer doctor

Tom rubenoff (author) from United States on July 22, 2016:

Sounds to me like your door closer is not installed correctly. Either the closer is not located in the correct place, or the arm is improperly installed. Alternatively, the hinges may be bent or the door frame sprung, but at first thought I would guess it is an installation error.

Hudson3331 on July 22, 2016:

Hi

I have a Cal Royal 430P door closer installed. The problem I need support on is it will not shut. The door opens, then swings close but stops a finger or two shy of catching on the doorframe and rests with the doors latch just outside of the doorframe . Any ideas?

Tom rubenoff (author) from United States on May 18, 2015:

Quite right, Rod. Usually I hear of transom closers referred to as 'overhead concealed closers' and floor spring closers as simply floor closers, but a rose by any other name will close the door just the same. Thank you for your comment.

Rod Fathers on May 15, 2015:

There are a few other types of door closers, namely transom closers/overhead closers and floor springs/floor closers. Transom closers are concealed units set into the transom of a door frame, floor springs or floor closers are set into the floor near the doorjamb sometimes called the door post. Both of these type closers work generally on the principle of extension or compression of a spring or springs and the drawing of oil into a piston at the same time. The rate at which the oil is released from the piston is the speed at which the door closes. For information and pictures of some historical floor springs see the gallery at www.midlandsfloorsprings.

Tom rubenoff (author) from United States on March 07, 2015:

Have you viewed the closer from above? Sometimes covers are held on by hex head cap screws in the top.

Perhaps your cover is held on by tension, but was put on the closer while there was wet paint on the door. The cover may be held on by the paint. In that case, carefully trace the edges of the over all round with a blade to free it from the paint.

It would be helpful to know the manufacturer, but you may not be able to tell with the cover on.

Please stop back and let us know how you made out.

Becca on March 07, 2015:

Hi Tom,

I have a surface mounted closer that I am trying to adjust, however I can not get the cover off. It's not held on by screws of any type I can see and won't come off when I pull it. Any tips?

doorcloserdoctor on February 13, 2015:

Jeff,

I just emailed you with some help about the Taymor, hope this helps, I tried to send a comment about it here but at the time hubpages didn't want to cooperate, so found it easier to send an email,

please read the email, it is from JLD902 (at) aim (dot) com

-Jess the door closer doctor

Jeff on February 12, 2015:

Tom,

I haven't figured out Facebook yet. You can email me at jeff3 at freemars dot org.

I downloaded one of Taymor's PDF files of specifications for its 600/620 series closers. The photo shows the hexagonal indent on one end just like

on the 97Y7 I have, but the drawing shows three holes on the other end. The closer I have has hexagonal indents on both ends. I get that the top screw on one end is the latch speed and the bottom screw is the swing speed. I presume that the single screw on the other end is back check.

Maybe the closers with three holes are adjustable but those with only hex indents are not?

-- Jeff, in Minneapolis

Tom rubenoff (author) from United States on February 12, 2015:

I was not able to find anything on the 979 closer online, either. I think photos of the adjustment valves and both ends of the closer body without the cover might be helpful. Can you contact me via Facebook?

Jeff on February 12, 2015:

I can't find specific instructions for a Taymor 979y closer. Taymor's

website is no help at all.

The problem is pretty clearly that the spring is sprung too hard. It is

hard to open the door and once open, it tries to bite the person going

through. Can the spring be adjusted? Each end of the cylinder has a

1" hexagonal depression, suggesting a very, very hefty tool to adjust it.

Also, as the door is being opened, just a few inches wide, it makes a

thunking sound that I doubt it should make. Not a sharp crack,

though -- just a thunk.

-- Jeff, in Minneapolis

James Beveridge from Western Australia on January 05, 2015:

Amazing article and the after discussion.. Quite informative.. :)

doorcloserdoctor on December 05, 2014:

Ruben, your welcome! :D

glad my help has helped with getting the door to close all the way and to stay shut keeping the heat in and the cold out.

-Jess the door closer doctor

Ruben on December 01, 2014:

Thank you for the response. The door does not have a latch, the spring was adjusted and has helped a lot, thank you again.

Tom rubenoff (author) from United States on November 22, 2014:

Welcome, Ruben. Thank you, Jess.

One question I would ask - does the door have a latch to keep it closed?

Jess on November 22, 2014:

Hello Ruben,

common one I hear these days(before winter) to preevnt the door from being blonw open, do you mean blowout, where the HVAC system makes door open slightly??? to adjust that you will have to haveHVAC mechanic adjust the blower motor speed on the heating/air conditioner.

if you cannot adjust the HVAC system orhave a guy do it for you, may be a good idea to increase the door closer spring size,

if its a surface closer, the spring tension is located on teh end of the door closer usually labelled as spring ([/\/\]) or PA (power adjust)

if its a concealed in top jamb closer (such a Jackson 20-330) you will need to order another closer as they are fixed spring size. ?

if its a closer concealed in the FLOOR, take noteof the brand, as they are different from brand to brand if you have a Dorma, you can simply use a wrench to adjust the spring tension, (much like adjusting the surface mount closers)

if you have a Rixson, this one its best to call a door installer, as a special tool with studs on it is required to adjust the spring, if adjusted wrong by end user/owner, owner can get hurt or leak/damage to closer can result,

if you have a dor-o-matic, these are adjustable as well, but high risk of dirt contamination into the fluid because you have to open a port cap on closer body to gain access to the spring tension adjuster.

if not sure what you have, please send a picture of the closer?? JLD902 @ AIM. com

Ruben on November 21, 2014:

Is there a way to adjust to keep wind from blowing door open?

Tom rubenoff (author) from United States on July 11, 2014:

Thank you, Jess!

Jess on July 11, 2014:

Hello Tom and Lori,

there is a way to fix the little hold open washer on the screen door closers,

remove from closer, put flat part (with hole) in a vise, then with a hammer, tap the "tab" part that contacts the tube of the closer, many times the angle is not enough to "bite" the rod to hold it open, also, many of these screen door closers are made overseas and sold to USA, sometimes quality of things made overseas can be questionable.

another option, buy one of them "touch n hold" type closers, that use a pushbutton on the closer tube itself instead of the washer that you slide down the rod.

-Jess the door closer doctor

hope this helps

Tom rubenoff (author) from United States on July 06, 2014:

Sounds like you have a new screen door or storm door, probably aluminum, and maybe the pneumatic door closer it came with is not so good and is not working properly. Since your door is new, perhaps you can take the closer back to wherever you got your door and they will give you a new closer. If this is not possible you could probably buy a better quality closer and it would not be very expensive. Take the closer with you so that it can be determined whether or not the replacement will fit.

Lori on July 05, 2014:

I have a new door put it on but when we slide the little metal thing on the closer to keep the door wide open and stay open it doesn't stay. What can I do?

Tom rubenoff (author) from United States on April 18, 2014:

One of our kids was "The Chocolate Detective." They could find chocolate immediately no matter how well hidden. Against some forces no security measures will avail. :)

Compu-Smart from London UK on April 18, 2014:

lol at slam the curtains!

A small set of wind chimes is a good tip.I may just alarm or lock it for the best security measures to protect my fav chocolates!!:)

Tom rubenoff (author) from United States on April 17, 2014:

Daughters tended to slam their bedroom doors as a means of expression so I threatened to remove the door and put up a curtain. "Slam that."

A good door closer can also make it difficult to slam the door, but it will not get rid of a squeak. We used to have a small set of wind chimes attached to the front door to mark comings and goings. One could do the same with a cupboard. Yet if the cupboard is bare, I guess it's already too late!

Thank you, Compu-smart!

Compu-Smart from London UK on April 17, 2014:

For all those people who will be adjusting or fitting new doors, please make sure they don't squeak because it can be very annoying for neighbors. Having said that, my friend has a squeaky door and when I offered to oil it for him he declined saying, when you have 5 daughters, you wanna know whose coming in and out of the house!. Now, I wish I never oiled my cupboard door which used to be squeaky because I would know who and when my sweets were going missing!

Tom rubenoff (author) from United States on March 11, 2014:

Thank you, Lauren. The discussion has taught me a lot! :)

Lauren Amy Smith from Suffolk on March 11, 2014:

Thanks for a wonderfully detailed post, voting up :)

Jess on February 22, 2014:

your welcome Tom!

-Jess the door closer doctor

Tom rubenoff (author) from United States on February 22, 2014:

Perfect! Thank you, Jess!

Jess on February 19, 2014:

Hello Ali and Tom,

the adjusting (turn on or turn off)of the hold open function all depends on if this is a SELECTIVE hold open floor closer or a factory assigned hold open,

now some questions, the brand?? (RIXSON?? CRL, Dorma??)

(on rixsons #27/#28) do you see any holes in the coverplate (sweep, latch, backcheck and HO on-off) if you see 4 screw valves and HO, it is selective and you have to turn the HO to the left to ENGAGE it, turn HO to right to turn it off, this may be hard due to how the internal mechanism is designed. to use the hold open turn the screw full 180 degrees, sometimes you may hear a "pop" sound as you turn it, (dont worry, you didn't break anything, also, USE A FIRM GRIP ON SCREWDRIVER as it might slip out of flat head screw

if you see just 3 valves (RIXSON) it is factory preset hold open, best to take to a door closer repair service or the factory to have the hold open disabled, most likely they will encourage you to buy a new closer as it is dangerous to service yourself if you have no experience with servicing floor closers (rebuilding them)

if its a dorma (BTS 75/80, longer narrower floor closer coverplate) they are NOT selective (can't turn it off on at will, the hold open function of the Dorma BTS series is a part of the internal mechanism, same as for Rixson, take to a repairer/factory to exchange for one with NON-hold open function

now as most of these are EXPENSIVE, I am sure there will be attempts to disable the hold open themselves (and save their money) it is highly recommended the end user/owner NOT attempt repairs themselves, as accidents can happen, floor closer springs are EXTREMELY strong and and not all toolshops/home workshops are equipped with the proper tools that are used in (floor)closer disassembly often too there are times that a person gets it back together, they use it, then it has problems (leaks or something fails) also, DIY on a closer (floor, surface or OHC) may also void the manufacturer's warentee.

hope this helps,

-Jess the door closer doctor

Ali on February 14, 2014:

Thanks Tom for the advise ;)

Tom rubenoff (author) from United States on February 13, 2014:

Sounds like you have a Herculite all-glass door with a floor closer. I know that when these are sold, they are sold either as hold open or non-hold open, so I would advice you to replace your non-hold open closer with a 90-degree hold open version. It may be possible to field convert your closer, I don't know. I do think working with the door closer would be better than adding another piece of hardware if your door is, in fact, all glass with no metal rails top and bottom. If you do have a rail at the top you could use and overhead stop and holder.

I have taken apart few door closers, but Jess the Door Closer Doctor has much experience in this. She may have more useful advice for you. Check her out at: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/members/174259-d...

Ali on February 13, 2014:

Hi everybody,

My tempered glass door is already set to stop on 90 degree, the complete open position. Actually I need it to close automatically even on 90 degrees. Here is the question, can I do it by the existing floor spring, or I should add some other ceiling spring?

Tom rubenoff (author) from United States on October 19, 2013:

Thanks, Jess! I was hoping you would show up. :)

Jess (door closer doctor) on October 19, 2013:

Mark,

the closer you discrive (code 9N50) that is the UL listings for Cal* Royal door closers, that cap on bottom is just that, a decorative cap to cover up the unused pinion shaft on a rack and pinion door closer, sounds to me you have a worn out O-ring and can be replaced, many find it easier and quicker to reaplce the whole closer,

many closers these days if you do attempt to change an o-ring on a pinion shaft, it only has a nut surrounding one shaft of the closer, (like most newer nortons and Cal* Royals) and to get to the side that don't have the pinion shaft nut, you must remove the pinion shaft to get to the effected side, and you lose a good amount of oil in the process and also void the manufacturer's warrentee in the process.

if you have the time and skill for it, by all means go ahead and remove the closer, take to a workbench with a vise and undo the nut around the shaft and replace the o-ring,

Tom,

that link is from a site that I have been known to give advice on door closer rebuilding, "DOORDOCTOR" is me, the advice starts at post #9.

in my feelings, if the person has time, they may be happy to only spend a few dollars on a rubber o-ring instead of 120+ on a new closer of the same model/brand, but I do see your point Tom, not all have time to rebuild or fix a leaker and it's best to buy a new unit.

I do warn that all closers have strong springs that can hurt you if you attempt to remove them, (one brand including discourages the owners from adjusting the spring, Rixson) due to risk of damage/leak to closer or injury to the person performing the adjustment/repair.

-Jess the door closer doctor

Tom rubenoff (author) from United States on October 19, 2013:

Actually most of the time there is an exception to that statement of mine. Truth is that I personally would rather toss a door closer than rebuild it but most quality door closer can be rebuilt. I found these instructions here: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/hardware-fastene...

The writer sounds like my friend Jess the Door Closer Doctor, but I could not tell from the information there. The instructions say to use mineral oil or hydraulic jack oil, but I think any oil designed for hydraulic equipment would work. They also mention replacing the O rings and those can be found at most good hardware stores.

My reasoning is this: in about the time it takes to rebuild a closer I can go buy a new one, come back, get up on the ladder and have it installed and have a cup of coffee before the next job. The customer gets a new door closer guaranteed for ten years. If I rebuilt the closer I would guarantee it for 90 days. That's why, all in all, I feel we are both better off if I replace it.

However, if you have the time and the inclination, what have you got to lose? Go ahead and give door closer rebuilding a try. Sounds kinda fun.

Mark on October 18, 2013:

Great article Tom, Thanks. I did have one question. I actually found this article when I googled 'door closer 9n50'. You state that if there is oil leaking from the door closer that you might as well throw it away and I was wondering if there was an exception. There is actually oil leaking from mine but it is coming from what appears to be a loose cap underneath that is designed to be unscrewed and used to refill the reservoir if necessary that perhaps someone loosened to create a little mischief. If I remove this cap and I find that is the case is there any specific hydraulic fluid I should use?

Tom rubenoff (author) from United States on October 16, 2013:

Mike, I am sorry I didn't see your comment before. The sagging of your door is a problem that is most likely unrelated to your door closer. Most likely something has settled or changed causing your door frame to go out of alignment. Sometimes this happens for no apparent reason; other times it can occur if some0one is, for example, pouring a new foundation next door. Also if your door frame is not securely anchored to a stud or other structural member it may be quite easy the throw out of alignment.

I suggest that you take a square and a level and see if 1) the inside corners of the door frame are square and 2) if the header is level and both legs of the frame are plumb. If either of these measurements shows your door frame is out of alignment you have found your culprit. I will write an article about how to test and straighten a hollow metal frame soon.

Craig, thank you. That a person has found one's writing helpful is the highest praise a writer can hope to achieve. I hope that your common door closer problems are over.

Craig Davidson on October 16, 2013:

Thanks, that is a helpful hub- Hopefully I have finally got our communal stairwell door to close properly! Fingers crossed!

Mike Yanczysin from Eastlake, Ohio on September 11, 2013:

Hi Tom - Great information here. Most door service companies I contacted about my standard surface mount closer did not even want to bother with it, or give me any suggestions about my problem, so was happy to find your blog. I have a 36-inch steel entry door that suddenly sagged in the frame, causing it to stick at the top right side. I thought the top hinge had warped, so I replaced it, but the door is still nearly a quarter inch out of plumb with the frame. I see no oil leaking from the closer and the arm does not appear to be sagging, so I'm really stumped as to what would suddenly cause the door to sag that much. Any thoughts?

Tom rubenoff (author) from United States on August 23, 2013:

You're welcome, Lexie. Looking over all the comments over the past four (!) years here, writing this hub was the start of an amazing journey of discussion and learning on all sides. I am very grateful for the experience. Thanks for visiting.