My Review of Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane on Cabinets

Updated on May 29, 2019
Matt G. profile image

Matt is a professional painter and freelance writer, sharing his knowledge, house-painting tips, and product reviews.

Emerald Urethane Paint

For many years, the paint I've used the most for cabinets has always been Pro Classic semi-gloss (acrylic) from Sherwin Williams. I've had good experiences with this product, but one thing I've always disliked about the paint is that it sags easily when sprayed. I've also found the finish of Pro Classic to be slightly soft and rubbery. I wanted to upgrade to a paint that would dry harder for long-term durability, especially for use on cabinets.

I recently used Emerald urethane to spray paint oak cabinets and I was very satisfied with the results. This product should not be confused with the regular Emerald interior paint. The urethane version is a water-based, modified alkyd, best for use on trim, doors, and cabinets. I was actually skeptical about using this product because I'm not a fan of the regular Emerald interior paint, but the two paints are completely different.

Does the Paint Level Good?

When spraying cabinets and doors, using a paint that levels is a must. If a non-leveling coating is used, the material won't lay out over the surface, causing uneven paint build-up and imperfections to dry exactly how they look when sprayed on.

I spray painted oak cabinets with this product and found it to level exceptionally well over two sanded coats of BIN shellac primer. The first coat leveled better than the second coat. I found that the second coat had to be sprayed heavier to build up the paint for even leveling. Spraying the second coat too fast would result in texturing that wouldn't level much.

Compared with the leveling quality of Pro Classic, I found Emerald urethane to perform the same, if not better. I sprayed and stored the cabinet doors horizontally, using the Door Rack Painter racks, and the paint leveled on the doors uniformly without any drips.

I should also mention that I use Aqua Coat grain filler before priming and painting oak cabinets with this paint. The filler, combined with two coats each of primer and paint, achieves a really smooth finish.

Paint Hardness

One of the reasons I wanted to try this product on cabinets is because it's supposed to dry harder than basic trim paint, and using a urethane paint would make the surface more durable for cleaning. No need to top coat the paint with a clear coat.

Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane does dry noticeably harder than Pro Classic. The paint isn't gummy, or soft, once cured. When I remove cabinet doors to spray them, I number the back side and stick a small piece of blue tape over it. Removing the tape from the doors at the end of the job was difficult. I had to carefully scrape the tape pretty hard to get it out of the dried paint.

The re-coat time for this paint is four hours. The paint was dry to the touch in about that time. The final coat of paint dried somewhere between four and six hours. I let the doors sit on my drying racks in my work space for several days before wrapping and delivering them to my customer for installation.

I found the paint to be noticeably harder to the touch after two days had passed, passing the fingernail test. The paint finish itself feels harder than other paints I've used. I wrapped the painted doors in moving blankets and delivered them to my customer without any issues.

The Semi-gloss Finish

I used the semi-gloss finish on the cabinets I painted. A satin and gloss finish are also available. My Sherwin Williams store had recommended the semi-gloss finish for cabinets because they said the satin finish is too dull. The semi-gloss finish of Emerald urethane is similar to Pro Classic semi-gloss, but maybe a little more glossy.

I've read complaints online by people saying the semi-gloss finish was dull, but in my experience, two coats of semi-gloss over two coats of BIN shellac primer was the perfect sheen for cabinets. Even the first coat looked very shiny, but the second coat looked even better. The semi-gloss finish is very smooth, perfect for washing.

The Price

In my opinion, it's insanely overpriced. The regular price for Emerald Urethane enamel starts at $89 per gallon. Yes, that's $89 per gallon without discounts, or coupons. If you're painting cabinets, you'll only need two to three gallons anyway, but still, that's a lot of money for paint.

If you don't already have an established store account with discount paint pricing, Sherwin Williams runs 30% to 40% off paint sales throughout the year, which saves a lot of money if you're patient and wait for the next sale. You can also apply for a Pro charge account at your local Sherwin Williams store to get discount pricing.

I also recommend signing up for their Paint Perks option to get coupon codes on paint and supplies via text message. I get notifications for discount deals on a weekly basis.

Is Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Worth It?

I've only used this product one time on cabinets, as of this writing, but so far, I'm very satisfied with the results. If something changes, I'll update this review. I can't comment on its performance for brush and roller application, since I've only sprayed it with an airless sprayer, but for spraying, the paint levels really well and dries harder than other paints I've used.

In my experience, this paint doesn't sag easily on vertical surfaces, unlike Pro Classic, which can be a nightmare to work with if you aren't careful. I sprayed two thick coats of Emerald on cabinet wall boxes and had no issues with dripping paint. The paint levels, but holds in place without sagging, which I really like.

This paint smells like Play Doh. A mask is definitely needed when working with this product, especially if you're spraying. The odor lingers for a while, probably due to the alkyd modification.

I can't comment how this product compares to paints like Cabinet Coat, or Break-Through, since I haven't used those products yet, but when compared with other trim paints I've used from Sherwin Williams, this is a solid upgrade. The full price of $89 per gallon is overpriced, so definitely take advantage of available discount options.

This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.

Questions & Answers

  • We painted (sprayed 2 coats) the kitchen cabinets with a SW satin oil base with kilz as a primer. The paint separated and after 30 days the paint scratched off down to the kilz when 2 doors bumped together. SW suggested this urethane paint. They said to sand the oil base paint and spray on the urethane. What're your thoughts on the paint adhering to the oil base paint?

    The paint is peeling because it isn't bonding with the primer, and the primer probably isn't bonding with the surface too. If you used latex Kilz primer, that's the reason. It could also be the oil paint you used isn't compatible with the primer, or the surface wasn't prepared correctly through cleaning and sanding. The oil paint should not be scratching off. Painting over that won't fix the problem. Strip the failing cabinet paint and primer down to the bare wood and start over. Clean and sand the cabinets, prime with OIL primers like Cover Stain, or shellac primer like BIN and apply two coats of Emerald urethane.

  • I read some reviews that Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane paint takes a long time to dry/cure. How was your experience in this? Also, can deglossing replace sanding?

    The dry time isn't bad. The re-coat time is four hours, but this all depends on the air temperature. The first coat took around six hours to dry because I sprayed the doors in my garage and it was hot and humid. The second coat dried in about three hours. The paint dries hard the next day. No, you should always sand.

  • Since Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane is a mix, what reducer should I use for this trim paint for a sprayer?

    If you're referring to thinning, you don't need to thin this paint for an airless sprayer; it sprays fine out of the can. You do need to thin it if you're using an HVLP sprayer, but I have no idea on the ratio or what to use since I haven't had to do that yet with the product. I recommend contacting your Sherwin Williams store for a recommendation.

  • Are you sanding between paint coats? I've read both yes and no, if you do what grit do you use?

    Yes, I sand between primer coats and once before paint. I usually use 220 grit.

Comments

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    • Matt G. profile imageAUTHOR

      Matt G. 

      8 days ago from United States

      Leah,

      If you're brushing and rolling the vanity, one gallon would probably be fine. Don't use latex primer unless it's already painted and in good condition. Use oil-based primer if it's unpainted oak. I would advise against tinting the oil primer too. You can only use up to 2 ounces of colorant for oil primer, in most cases, but even following the specs, I've had problems tinting oil. The colorant impacts the dry time and the durability. In my experience, the primer doesn't stick to the surface as good as without colorant. It will take an extra coat of your navy enamel to cover over the white primer, but you won't have any durability problems.

    • profile image

      Leah 

      8 days ago

      I was wondering how much of this paint to buy for a small bathroom vanity? I'm going to be using a navy color over oak but I plan to use primer first and am considering tinting the primer as well.

    • Matt G. profile imageAUTHOR

      Matt G. 

      9 days ago from United States

      Mike,

      The problem is the latex primer that was used on the cabinets. As you've learned, latex primer doesn't seal over tough stains and tannin. It also dries too soft for use as an undercoat on unpainted cabinets. Top coats of enamel over latex primer on unpainted wood results in a soft, unsealed finish, that isn't durable.

      For unpainted cabinets, the store employee should have recommended their version of BIN, which is a white pigmented shellac primer, or their interior oil-based primer called Pro Block. If the cabinets would have been primed with either of those products, or BIN, the finish would be hard and durable without the fingerprint problem.

      Another potential problem is over-thinning the paint. It's possible you thinned it with too much water, which reduces durability as well, but the latex primer for sure is the problem.

      Another consideration is the paint color. You didn't mention if the color was white, or a darker color. If the paint was tinted to a dark color this slows down the cure time a lot. All of these things combined can cause problems.

      If it were me, I would strip the cabinets and start over with BIN primer, or an oil-based primer, followed by two coats of the enamel, otherwise the cabinets won't be durable with that latex primer underneath.

      Emerald urethane dries to a hard and washable finish when applied over the primer I mentioned. I would also spray it with an airless sprayer, which requires no thinning. When sprayed between 2,000 to 2,500 PSI, using the right size fine finish tip, the enamel lays out nice. I've sprayed it multiple times.

    • Matt G. profile imageAUTHOR

      Matt G. 

      9 days ago from United States

      Thank you for the comment. I'm glad to hear my article helped you with the project. Yes, their paint sales can save you a lot of money. Their blue bucket sale is the big one. I load up on supplies when they run that sale a couple times per year.

    • profile image

      Mike 

      11 days ago

      Thanks for the info Matt. We just finished spraying (older Wagner HVLP) our cabs with SW Emerald urethane and I wanted to share a few observations. First, I do not recommend the SW water-based primer that is marketed by SW alongside this paint. Although we did a good job cleaning the cabs, there are always going to be small areas with gunk that will bleed through, and the water based primer was terrible in this regard. The most used cab fronts had bleedthrough spots so I went and got a quart of BIN (shellac-based) and it sealed them up well. Second, although water-based has advantages, the cure time is just too long... I needed to thin this (5% max allowed according to SW) to get it to spray well, and our cabs still fail the fingernail test 10 days after spraying the last coat. I'm worried. One of our girls touched her toes to the side of the island 5 days after painting, and her prints are still there... Despite being 10 days out, if you rub a thumb (with some force, but not too hard), the semi-gloss finish is gone forever. This stuff is just too tacky for how long it has been.

    • profile image

      Alejandra 

      11 days ago

      Thank you for the information. I actually just spray painted my kitchen cabinets using the Wagner sprayer and the SW Emerald paint you just mentioned.

      It's the first time using this paint and also a sprayer. I'm a homemaker and I loved the finish.

      It is exactly as you described. Tomorrow I'll be putting everything together, including the new hardware.

      I did sign up for the Perks account to save money, and I was lucky that during the last week of painting they were running a sale.

      Thank you again!

    • Matt G. profile imageAUTHOR

      Matt G. 

      3 weeks ago from United States

      I would recommend Emerald urethane enamel over Super Paint. The enamel dries harder. Super Paint is good for walls. I wouldn't use it on cabinets.

    • profile image

      Emerald or SuperPaint? 

      3 weeks ago

      I’ve seen you recommend both in your articles (I’m not wanting to use ProClassic because I am an amateur painter and I’ve heard it’s difficult to use). Would you suggest Emerald Urethane or SuperPaint for painting oak wood cabinets?

      Thanks!

    • profile image

      Jessica 

      3 weeks ago

      I had my cabinets professionally painted with this product recently (sprayed) and they are definitely NOT passing the fingernail test. They scratch easily with a fingernail after over a week. Also, there's small amounts of caulk accumulated in all the corners of my shaker cabinets making them look kinda rounded. Should I be worried about the scratching of the paint or give it more time to cure? Should I be asking them to fix caulk? I don't know if I'm being unrealistic about the shaker edges being perfectly square and crisp.

    • Matt G. profile imageAUTHOR

      Matt G. 

      6 weeks ago from United States

      Freddy,

      I believe the aerosol version performs the same as far as sealing and priming, but I can't confirm this one hundred percent. I have used the aerosol version to do spot priming for various projects and the finish is different than spraying through an airless. I wouldn't use the aerosol can to spray primer over all of your cabinets. The finish will be less smooth than if you were to spray through an airless with high atomization. You're also going to need multiple cans. The tips on these cans clog more too in my experience.

    • Matt G. profile imageAUTHOR

      Matt G. 

      6 weeks ago from United States

      Kevin,

      I use a Titan 440 Impact and a Graco GX-19 Finish Pro for cabinet painting. One is for spraying primer and the other for paint. I wrote two articles about each of those sprayers. Check out my articles list if you'd like to read my reviews about them.

    • profile image

      Freddy Belt 

      6 weeks ago

      Is it OK to use the aerosol version of the BIN shellac? Is it the same thing that using the regular one with my airless sprayer? I dont want to use my airless sprayer with oil paints for now.

    • profile image

      Kevin Wunschel 

      6 weeks ago

      Matt,

      I want to paint my kitchen cabinets. What type of airless sprayer did you use with Emeralds urethane paint?

    • Matt G. profile imageAUTHOR

      Matt G. 

      6 weeks ago from United States

      Joseph,

      If the paint on your cabinets is in good condition with no signs of corrosion or peeling you can scuff sand and apply the new coating, but I would lean more towards applying a latex bonding primer first to ensure a solid bond. It's up to you. If you're asking if you can use the cabinet paint on the drywall, yeah you can, but the wall should be sanded down first if it's glossy and primed with a latex bonding primer before painting it. The cabinets should be cleaned and scuff sanded before you prime and paint.

    • Matt G. profile imageAUTHOR

      Matt G. 

      6 weeks ago from United States

      Kimber,

      Sand the boxes with 220-grit to prevent scratching the wood. You don't have to sand it down to the bare wood, just enough to remove the lacquer. You can use coarser sandpaper if there's a thicker lacquer coating on the boxes. Priming with Pro Block oil primer is good, or BIN. I would use a micro fiber roller instead of a foam roller. The foam roller sometimes leaves bubbles in the paint for some reason. Sand between coats.

    • profile image

      joseph halstead 

      7 weeks ago

      Hi Matt,

      I have metal cabinets from the 50s-60s. They are still in good condition and I'm painting them. I used a Muralo latex product when I last painted them 12 years ago. Was gonna use Emerald Urethane this time. I assume I simply need to clean them and then use a 220 sandpaper. And then apply two coats. Just making sure there's no need to do anything else to the cabinets prior to painting. Then we also wanted to paint a wall in the kitchen with the same color paint. Could I use the same paint on this previously painted drywall wall? thanks for your help.

    • profile image

      Kimber 

      2 months ago

      Hi Matt,

      I am prepping to finally get to painting my new cabinet doors. I've kept the old cabinet boxes, as I completely remodeled my home and was trying to save where I could - I will be cleaning and sanding the boxes but the doors are unfinished pine/MDF ready for paint. I plan to paint with a foam roller (I know spraying is preferred, but my schedule doesn't allow me to rent a sprayer without having to return it immediately after without fear of keeping it for the next three weeks) and sand using my B&D Mouse, using the Sherwin Williams ProBlock and Sherwin Willians Emerald Urethane (when the 40% off rolls around again). What foam roller & sandpaper grit would you recommend? Is there anything else I should consider to try to make the best of the hours I'll be putting in to this?

      Really appreciate all of your articles.

    • profile image

      Michael Peyton 

      2 months ago

      Thanks again for your help Matt.

      I really hope this helps someone else avoid the same headache.

      I had reservations when I saw her mess up tinting the first batch. I wish I would have went with my gut and just used untintec BIN.

      I will sand everything down to bare wood, reprime with nontinted BIN, and reapply the Emerald.

    • Matt G. profile imageAUTHOR

      Matt G. 

      2 months ago from United States

      At this point, the finish and bond was comprised by over-tinting the BIN primer. The person at the store didn't know what they were doing and unknowingly overloaded it. The powder you're seeing is the extra colorant that separated from the pigment in the shellac. This primer doesn't react well with tint and can only be tinted with a max of 2 ounces of universal colorant. I looked up the specs to confirm and I was correct in my previous reply. I've had problems tinting BIN before so now I don't do it anymore, even with deep base colors.

      The tinting issue is your main problem, but it's probably also too hot and humid in the garage.Try to control the air better with a small portable AC unit with fans and exhaust so the fumes are being filtered out and fresh air coming in.

      Sand off the primer and paint and start over with either no tint in the primer, or no more than 2 ounces of colorant per the specs. If it were me, I wouldn't even tint the primer at all. It sucks to have to start over, but at least you'll feel confident the project will be done right the second time without bonding issues or a soft finish. I also highly recommend spraying instead of rolling. You can get a nice even finish and it's a lot faster.

    • profile image

      Michael Peyton 

      2 months ago

      Thanks so much for your help Matt.

      It looks like I have all of those things you mentioned in your response.

      -Paint color is black so the base is Ultra Deep.

      -I’m doing this in a garage and it has rained a lot in the last 10 days. The temp here in Nashville, Tennessee has been in the 70s for the most part.

      -The primer was tinted - I’m not sure how much they put in, but it’s gray not white. The person at Lowes tinting it messed up the first batch and had to tint a new can. I’m not confident that it was tinted to spec and is actually causing the issue.

      -I don’t have a wet mil gauge but when I rolled the first coat it didn’t cover the gray primer completely. That should be under 4 mils but I could have applied the other two coats thicker. With a 1/4” nap there was only a very small texture when wet.

      I’m afraid it’s the primer.

      I performed a scrape test with a paint scraper this morning. The Emerald peeled and rolled away from the primer without too much effort. Scraping the primer resulted in “primer” dust. Last night I painted a piece of plain plywood with two coats of Emerald. Scraping it this morning resulted in peeling but it seemed noticeably harder. Sanding with 220 of both the primed and unprimed pieces results in “rolls” not “dust”.

      I set a small ceramic heater at 85 degrees with a oscillating fan in hopes that will help harden the paint a bit faster. Considering the possibility of the primer being tinted too much, do you feel this is all for naught and I should just sand everything down to the bare wood or do you still think I need to wait it out for another few days?

    • Matt G. profile imageAUTHOR

      Matt G. 

      2 months ago from United States

      Coating thickness and air temp is important. Using a wet mil gauge is very helpful. When I started using one, I was surprised to see I was spraying a lot heavier than I thought. A coating thickness of 4 wet mils is what you want. Beyond 4 mils, the enamel dry time slows down.

      You didn't mention the color, but that also plays a role in dry time. White colors dry very fast. I can handle a white cabinet door the next day without leaving marks in the finish. Deep base and ultra deep base colors take longer to dry because there's a lot more tint in the enamel. The excessive colorant slows the drying.

      If the BIN primer was tinted too, especially beyond the recommended specs, which I believe is 2 ounces of colorant, this can also slow the drying a lot and cause problems.

      Air temperature and humidity also impacts drying. If it's hot and humid, or too cold, this matters.

      So the reason is either excessive colorant from deep base color needs more time to dry, the primer was over-tinted, the enamel was applied thicker than you think, or it's the air temp.

      Hybrid enamel takes longer to cure than straight acrylic enamel. You applied three coats. All you can do is leave it alone and let it cure.

    • profile image

      Michael Peyton 

      2 months ago

      Adding to my previous post - I used a 4.5” Purdy 1/4” nap micro fiber roller. Coats were not heavy - and I waited 24 hours between coats of Emerald and 72 hours of drying time after the last coat to handle the cabinets.

    • profile image

      Michael Peyton 

      2 months ago

      I built two cabinets with 19mm Baltic Birch plywood. I applied 3 coats of Emerald Urethane over 2 coats of Bin Shellac based Primer sanding with a 220 between each coat. The finish “was” flawless. However even after 72 hours of drying time (with a fan as well) it is still “soft” with noticeable “give” and a slight stickiness when you press hard with your hand. I flipped the 125 pound cabinet over to paint the front. The entire back face was supported on a slightly textured floor for 20-30 minutes. Something told me to check it - so I flipped the cabinet over and the texture had transferred to my flawless finish. I checked the primer - it has bonded to the plywood as expected. What do you think the issue is?

    • Matt G. profile imageAUTHOR

      Matt G. 

      2 months ago from United States

      I'm not sure what you mean by "lines" in the coating. If the sprayer wasn't atomizing the paint correctly then your spray fan could have left tails on the edges of it. You can wet sand them out and spray another coat. Other possible causes could be not spraying in one direction, keeping a wet edge. That would cause flashing, especially if it's a darker color.

    • profile image

      Hacemakes 

      2 months ago

      Hi Matt, I've just finished the second coat of my cabinets with the SW Emerald Urethane in semi gloss. It worked really well but in certain light, I'm noticing lines in my work. I used an inexpensive HVLP sprayer from Wagner to apply the paint. Is there an easy fix for this and/or do you think applying a third coat would do the trick? Any advice to prevent this from happening again on the final coat? Thanks for the original post. It was very helpful in determining the right paint for my project!

    • Matt G. profile imageAUTHOR

      Matt G. 

      3 months ago from United States

      The semi-gloss finish of this product is very shiny. You probably wouldn't like it if you don't want the extra sheen on your cabinets. Unless you plan on cleaning the cabinets a lot, the satin finish is fine. The satin finish is less glossy, but not dull like flat paint. When I used this product, most of my customers chose the satin finish and were very pleased with the sheen. The level of sheen also depends on prep and the number of coats too. Two coats of primer and two coats of paint enhances the gloss. If you were to only prime one coat and paint one coat, the finish will be less shiny, so that could explain some people saying the satin finish looks flat. With one coat, it's more dull. I definitely recommend two coats each of primer and paint for durability. It makes a big difference at the end. You want some gloss on the cabinets for easier cleaning.

    • profile image

      Mandy 

      3 months ago

      Matt G, I am thinking of using this paint for my cupboards, but like you, I have heard mixed reviews about the satin sheen. I have heard that it tends to look flat. I would prefer the look of satin. Do you feel like the semi gloss isn’t as shinny and possibly looks like a Satin normally looks? I want to try to avoid a lot of shine on my cupboards.

    • Matt G. profile imageAUTHOR

      Matt G. 

      3 months ago from United States

      Melissa,

      I think you're referring to the latex Extreme Bond primer from Sherwin Williams. If the cabinets are already painted that primer's fine, but if they're not painted, it's best to use an oil-based primer sealer, or white shellac primer, on the cabinets. Either one seals wood.

    • profile image

      Melissa 

      3 months ago

      Hello! Thanks for the nice article, I’m about to paint my cabinets. sherwin Williams website recommend a extra bond latex primer But I read here latex primer will ruin the cabinets which one I should use

    • Matt G. profile imageAUTHOR

      Matt G. 

      3 months ago from United States

      The Graco X5, a DIY sprayer sold at big box stores, doesn't have a sealed motor and cannot be used with flammable coatings like BIN. Most of the inexpensive sprayers sold at Home Depot, or Lowes, are the same.

      If you use a contractor sprayer from Graco, or Titan, these have sealed motors and can be used with flammable coatings. I own a Graco 495, Graco GX-19 Finish Pro and a Titan 440 Impact. All three can be used with BIN.

      Emerald urethane is thick enamel and the small pump in your X5 has to work harder to atomize it without the tailing. I've sprayed Emerald enamel many times with all three of my sprayers and never had tailing with a 208 and 310 fine finish tip. I use the green FFLP tips. I'm glad you found the spray tip size that works with your sprayer.

    • profile image

      Dave Contant 

      3 months ago

      Great information in this article, but I want to make a point about the BIN shellac primer. I intended to use it, but the sprayer I have (Graco X5) says you can't spray "flammable" materials. The flash point of the BIN shellac is too low for the sprayer. I had to go with Cover Stain. So make sure your sprayer can handle the shellac. Also, although the Emerald Urethane application instructions say to use a .015 to .017 tip at 2,000 PSI, I couldn't get rid of tailing with a 315 tip even at the max 3,000 PSI of the sprayer. I ended up having to buy a LP (low pressure) tip to get a nice pattern with feathered edges.

    • Matt G. profile imageAUTHOR

      Matt G. 

      4 months ago from United States

      If the primer isn't coming off then I'd just prime over it with Cover Stain.

    • profile image

      Victoria 

      4 months ago

      Thanks a million! I will use cover stain after doing some more research. This primer has been on for more than 24 hours and is not budging with 100 or 120 grit sandpaper .. Is there a trick?

    • Matt G. profile imageAUTHOR

      Matt G. 

      4 months ago from United States

      Yes, I would remove the primer and prime with either oil-based primer, or BIN. Start over with a clean slate. If the primer's fresh it should sand off easily. You could prime over it too, but if the primer on there now hasn't bonded good to the surface you risk issues later. Oil-based primer, or BIN, both stick to prepped wood really well. Both seal the surface and provide a durable base coat. Cover Stain oil primer is a good product for this. Yes, sand in between prime coats with 220-grit. Use 320-grit if you sand between paint coats to avoid scratching the finish. Microfiber rollers and foam rollers work good. I like microfiber. Sometimes foam rollers leave bubbles in the paint. You can seal the cabinets if you want just make sure the two products are compatible.

    • profile image

      Victoria 

      4 months ago

      Thank you so much! I wish I found this forum sooner! So I should sand off the current primer then apply bin shellac? Is a certain roller best for this? Do I need to sand again once the primer has dried before applying the paint? If so with what grit sand paper is best? I think I read somewhere else here that you don’t suggest sealing the cabinets once they are painted if this and emerald ere is used? Appreciate your help so very much!

    • Matt G. profile imageAUTHOR

      Matt G. 

      4 months ago from United States

      The yellowing is tannin bleed. It's happening because the primer is probably latex. Use oil-based primer, or white shellac primer. I would remove the primer and start over.

    • profile image

      Victoria 

      4 months ago

      Hi Matt! I currently have BM advance primer on my Oak cabinets and have changed my mind about their paint because yellow is showing through primer after cleaning with tsp and sanding with 120 grit paper first. I am painting white and don’t want it to yellow so I’m going to use SW emerald erethane as suggested. Do I need to sand this BM primer off and start over? What primer should I use? Again painting white and don’t want it to yellow. Thank you!!

    • Matt G. profile imageAUTHOR

      Matt G. 

      4 months ago from United States

      Thank you for the feedback. I'm glad you found the information helpful for your project.

    • profile image

      Poper 

      4 months ago

      About to do all my cabinets with this paint using the extreme bond primer and emerald urethane on the laminated panels. On the wood surfaces I'll do extreme block with the emerald latex. This post answered many questions I had before I start. Great thread!

    • Matt G. profile imageAUTHOR

      Matt G. 

      4 months ago from United States

      No problem, thank you.

    • profile image

      Cristina steadman 

      4 months ago

      Thank You Matt!

    • Matt G. profile imageAUTHOR

      Matt G. 

      4 months ago from United States

      You can use poly on top of Emerald urethane if you want. Sherwin Williams basically told me they wouldn't back the product though once it's top coated with another product. I can't really recommend a paint brush for furniture because I don't paint furniture at all. Purdy paint brushes are what I've always used the most. I like Purdy XL brushes. I've also used Corona brushes and like them. I know Wooster has some good brushes too, but I've never used them.

    • profile image

      Cristina steadman 

      4 months ago

      . I refinish a lot of my own and friends furniture pieces. I’ve always used alkyd paint From BM or HD with a couple coats of poly. They say with Emerald you don’t need too , that it’s hard enough. Could I use poly on top if I feel like it needs it? The color I chose for my next project is a navy Also what is the best paint brush you’ve used for furniture pc, I know you use a spray gun but would like your thoughts on brushes

      Cristina

    • Matt G. profile imageAUTHOR

      Matt G. 

      6 months ago from United States

      Did you prime first, and if so, did you use latex or oil primer? If latex primer was used, that's likely why the paint is coming off like that. Oil primer or shellac primer dries harder and forms a stronger foundation under the paint.

      Did you clean and sand the surface before priming and painting? How long did you wait to sand the paint? I've never experienced any issues with this product sanding off like that with my process for prep and application.

      I clean, sand, caulk, spray two prime coats, using BIN shellac primer, sanding between coats. I let the primer harden overnight, scuff sand, and spray two coats of Emerald urethane at 3 1/2 to 4 mils max, allowing the paint to dry overnight between coats. Emerald urethane has good blocking if you prep right and let the paint dry and harden up overnight before scuff sanding.

    • profile image

      Shawn C 

      6 months ago

      I sprayed this on using the homeright hvlp. I thinned the paint 15%. It seemed to work very well. It dries a little rougher than I would have liked, but nothing a little 400 grit couldn't take care of.

    • Matt G. profile imageAUTHOR

      Matt G. 

      9 months ago from United States

      Oil-based paint is very durable, but as you said, the smell is an issue. Emerald urethane enamel, not the regular acrylic Emerald, is durable too. The enamel dries hard, similar to oil paint. It's washable for dirt and food stains. I'm not familiar with Pro Choice paint, so I don't if you meant Pro Classic enamel. Pro Classic is a good product. I've brushed and sprayed a lot of the acrylic version. On cabinets, Emerald urethane will dry harder and be more washable than Pro Classic acrylic. There's also a Pro Classic hybrid enamel, similar to Emerald urethane, but I've never used that product. Your painter should use BIN shellac primer, or oil-based primer.

    • profile image

      Lindsey 

      9 months ago

      Hi, I am so glad I ran across your post, I hope you are still answering questions! So they are installing our new kitchen cabinets next week and I’m using SW paint. I’ve really been studying the best way to go about this as I’m not a painter and I don’t want to get it wrong! My painter always works with oil base paint but I’m sensitive to oil base paint for some reason and the smell is too over powering(I’ve remodeled lots of homes). Anyhow, I find the Emerald water base to be maybe exactly what I need for myself and my painter. Is the smell super strong and overpowering? I mean if so, I should just go oil base.

      My local SW says the Pro Choice is what most painters use? It’s a lot cheaper but I’m curious if you have continued using the Pro Choice? Is there a difference in looks of the two paintsOr is it just the application is better for my painter? My painter has been doing this a long time but prefers oil. Is there a difference in the way they clean once finished? I need about 20 gallons and I don’t mind spending extra but I’d theres not a huge difference to the quality or the eye, I will go Pro Choice. If there’s not a big difference in the strong ness of the odor, I might as well go oil.

      Sorry, so long, I’m just excited to find someone talking about my exact issue and me and my painter have a language barrier which makes asking difficult.

      ALSO...if I paint my fresh cabinets with either of these pints, which primer do you suggest?

      Thanks so much!!

    • Matt G. profile imageAUTHOR

      Matt G. 

      9 months ago from United States

      Cleaning and scuff sanding the SuperPaint on the doors before applying Emerald urethane is fine. That will dull the gloss of the existing paint so the new paint grips the surface better. You can of course apply primer too. Sherwin Williams sells a latex bonding primer for that purpose.

    • profile image

      Vanja 

      10 months ago

      I am using Emerald urethane paint on interior doors, previously finished with SW Super paint in semi gloss. We are sending doors slightly. Do we have to apply a primer before repainting with Emerald urethane paint. If yes, what kind of primer?

    • Matt G. profile imageAUTHOR

      Matt G. 

      12 months ago from United States

      Yes, BIN shellac primer will seal the MDF doors for your paint.

    • profile image

      T Cao 

      12 months ago

      Matt,

      Can the same process (BIN Shellac + Emerald Urethane Paint) be used for MDF cabinet doors?

    • Matt G. profile imageAUTHOR

      Matt G. 

      13 months ago from United States

      How did you prep the cabinets and what type of primer was used? I've never had any problems with the paint coming off.

    • profile image

      Pam 

      13 months ago

      I used Sherwin Williams Emerald urethane trim enamel for bathroom cabinets and the paint and primer both are gummy and come when you rub them. Any suggestions what went wrong?

    • Matt G. profile imageAUTHOR

      Matt G. 

      13 months ago from United States

      Tony,

      Yes, Emerald urethane levels pretty good when brushed on. If it's already painted, you don't need to use primer. Just clean, scuff sand the surface, and paint, but if there's bleed through with the existing paint, use oil primer. If there's a big color difference that could impact the number of coats, use latex primer.

    • profile image

      Tony 

      13 months ago

      Can the SW Emerald Urethane be brushed on?

      I am wanting to paint an already painted base cabinet with it. I don't know what type paint was used.

      What primer would you suggest?

      Thank you.

    • Matt G. profile imageAUTHOR

      Matt G. 

      14 months ago from United States

      Brenda,

      No problem. I'm glad you found the article helpful.

    • profile image

      Brenda Grant 

      14 months ago

      Thank you so much for your help. I appreciate it more than you know. I'll let you know what happens down the road.

    • Matt G. profile imageAUTHOR

      Matt G. 

      14 months ago from United States

      Brenda,

      A poly coat will harden the surface, but I've never used that product before so I'm not sure if oil or latex poly should be used. Oil is more durable, but you need to know one hundred percent what's compatible with the product on your cabinets. I would contact your SW store and talk to the manager and ask them to call their product hotline with your inquiry. My local SW store has done this for me many times when the store employees couldn't provide a definite clear answer about product compatbility.

    • profile image

      Brenda Grant 

      14 months ago

      Just found the paint was SW Pro Industrial, Pre-Catalyzed Waterbased Epoxy. K45 T 1154, 6509-83984 Egg-Shell He did prime the cabinets and left them for 24 hours before painting. They were originally stained cabinets. Since SW recommends I wait 60 days before doing anything, can I after 60 days, put on a polyurethane coat? And if I can, should it be a water- based polyurethane or an oil- based? SW man says it should be an oil based. I know you must use the right based polyurethane. Hoping a polyurethane will harden the finish and provide a little bit of shine, just not too much.Thank you for your help here at this site. It means a lot to me.Wished he had used the paints your recommend. with your recommendation, I hope I can help the situation. Thank you so much.

    • Matt G. profile imageAUTHOR

      Matt G. 

      14 months ago from United States

      Brenda,

      Did the painter use latex or oil primer? What paint from Sherwin Williams was used on your cabinets? SW has many paints for different purposes, some of which shouldn't be used on cabinets. If the paint is soft and rubbery, it sounds like a cheap wall or trim paint was used, or the cabinets weren't prepped right. ProClassic and Emerald urethane are good paints for cabinets. I use Emerald urethane. It dries a little harder than ProClassic.

    • profile image

      Brenda Grant 

      14 months ago

      I am so disappointed in my newly painted $2200 kitchen cabinets. The painter used SW paint but as you said it is soft and rubbery. I don't know what type he used but it was the eggshell finish. I am just sick over it. I live on retirement pay and was so excited to get them painted. But alas, the finish is sad. I called SW and they say wait 60 days for the paint to set. After 60 days, is there a polyurethane I could put on them to add a little shine and harden them up? Thanks for any help you can provide.

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