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How to Install Stone Veneer on the Front of Your House

Paul has been upgrading his home for the past five years. This labor of love has proved to him that learning is a lifelong journey.

How to Install Stone Veneer on the Front Exterior of Your House

I am writing this article to let all readers know how amazing your home will look when you install stone veneer on the front exterior of your house. I have recently upgraded my home using two different types of stone veneer.

In both cases, I did all of the work myself. On the inside of my home, I used Ledgestone to upgrade my fireplace, and on the exterior wall on the front of my home, I installed Stackstone. This was indeed a labor of love.

If you ever want to meet everyone in your neighborhood and surrounding areas, upgrade the front of your home with stone veneer. I had countless people compliment me on the new look and how great my home now looks.

Some even pulled up my driveway and asked for advice on how to do it themselves. Several others remarked that I must really love my home. So, if you really love your home, read on. I will tell you exactly how to turn your home into the dream home you've always wanted.

I learned so much when I decided to install stone veneer on the exterior of my home. It was the most gratifying project I had done to date. The stone veneer made an incredible transformation to the look and value of my home.

I have had some visitors who thought we had built from scratch as our home now looks just like the new homes built a few blocks away. Like all DIY projects, it's always good to plan, plan and then plan some more. Ask lots of questions and there is nothing you can't do yourself. Always consult a professional to make sure you have all the right steps in place.

Before Stone Veneer Is Installed

Before Stone Veneer Is Installed

Prepare the Surface for the Stone Veneer

I had chosen two types of stone veneer for the different areas of my home. The preparation will vary depending on the application.


I needed to tear down the old brick mantel, remove the old wood fireplace box, and insulate the walls and ceiling inside the housing. Once the new fireplace was in place, a fire retardent cement board was installed covering the fireplace bezel and surrounding area where the stone veneer was to be installed.

The cement board usually comes in 3' x 6' sheets and is easy to handle without extra help. Just measure the size of the area and mark the board. A hand saw will easily cut the cement board as required.

The cement board is secured to the fireplace bezel using self-taping metal screws, and is secured to the adjacent wall areas using backer board nails. These are the same nails you would use to secure cement board in preparation for applying floor tiles over a wooden subfloor.

Home Exterior

The preparation was a little different. For the exterior of my home, I used manufactured stone. The big advantage of manufactured stone is it can be cut with a circular masonry blade, very quick and easy.

Manufactured stone is made of stone but in a lighter composition. There are amazing styles and patterns to choose from. Depending on the style of stone, they can also come in various sizes and shaped, corner and other option finishing pieces are also available.

My home was a Tudor style and had painted wood framing surrounding all doors and windows. For my plan, I had to remove some of the wood planks and cover up others. Where ever I had removed the planks, I had to first install sections of Metal Lathe. The Metal Lathe comes in sheets 2' x 8' and is installed using 1" roofing nails approximately every 6". The Metal Lathe is also installed covering any remaining wood planks left in place.

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Window Ledge

Window Ledge

Mixing the Cement for Stone Veneer

Once all of the Metal Lathe is installed, a scratch coat of cement has to be applied before you can install the Stone Veneer. You must use S-type Cement with a bonding agent.

Check around for premixed cement. Premixed referring to a mixture of S type Cement, sand and bonding agent. This will save you loads of time measuring and maintain a good consistency with all your surfaces.

For the scratch coat, I also added a tint. This proved to be a wise decision as some areas of the scratch coat may actually be visible through the final stone application depending on the layout.

For mixing the cement, you can either use a big drum, packing drill and auger or a cement mixer. I tried using the packing drill and auger, but quickly changed to a cement mixer.

These units can be rented for $40.00 per week depending on where you live. These mixers are well worth the cost. Let the mixer do all the work. Simply add a bag of cement to the mixer, a small cup of tint, and then a gallon of water. Mix the cement for approx 5 minutes. The cement should have a soft pliable consistency.

If required add a small amount of water then mix again until the desired consistency is met. When tilted on its side, the cement should not easily slide off a metal trowel used to apply the cement.

Important Note Wash out the cement mixer frequently. Once the cement dries, it is extremely difficult to remove. if you had rented the mixer, the rental outfit will levy a steep charge to have the mixer restored to working condition.

Outside Corner

Outside Corner

Apply the Scratch Coat

Now you have to apply the scratch coat while the cement is in its soft pliable state. Simply take a pail and fill it up with some of the cement mixture. Using a cement trowel, apply at least a 1/2 inch coating of cement over the metal lathe areas.

Be sure to push the cement into the metal lathe filling the holes. The final surface should be even. For areas adjacent to the stucco surface, make sure the scratch coat is at the same level as the stucco.

Once the scratch coat has partially dried, take a steel brush and rough up the surface. This will assist the adhering of the Stone Veneer to the scratch coat.

Total Prep and Application of Stone Veneer

Front Entrance

Front Entrance

Install the Stone Veneer

Now comes the fun part. This is where all the neighbors start talking, where complete strangers pull up your driveway for DYI advise.

Start with an inside section of wall to be covered. In my case, I had several surface areas to be covered, raw brick, stucco and scratch coat areas. The raw brick areas extended beyond the stucco and scratch coat areas, therefore I left them for last.

You may need some initial support for the lowest level of stone, I used wood planks and old bricks, whatever you have handy will do. Measure the area, then layout your stone pattern on the ground first.

Mix a fresh batch of cement, exactly the same as the scratch coat including the tint. With your trowel, apply an even coating of the cement to the back of the Stone Veneer. This is like applying peanut butter to toast except you want the cement to be at least 1/2" thick. Then hold the brick to the wall surface for about 5 to 10 seconds.

You should see the moisture from the cement penetrate the wall surface surround. The cement will create a suction to the wall and remain in place. Then you keep repeating this process until you have either used up all of your stone or run out of cement.

It is a good idea to do small sections at a time, including measuring and cutting the stone first. Then mixing the cement and applying. The reason for this is the unused mixed cement can start to dry and thicken before you have applied all the stone if you have to stop and measure and cut in between each stone placement.

If it does start to dry a bit, you can add a little bit of water and mix with your trowel. In fact, I would fill a gallon size pail with the mixed cement from the cement mixer, then use all the cement in the pail. I would keep refilling the pail until I had used all the cement from the mixer.

Once all the cement in the mixer has been used up, you must hose it down really well and so that no cement remains to harden inside the drum. Once the drum is clean, you can measure and cut another section of stone and then mix another batch of cement.

Cleaning the Stone Veneer

When all of the stone has been installed, the final task is to clean the stone veneer. The cement mixture can end up on the stone surface as part of the installation process. You want to remove this excess cement so all you see is the incredible stone facade. All you need is to use the steel brush and rub the cement off the stone surface.

This is a quick and easy process. When you are all done, your home will look absolutely amazing. You'll be amazed at how many people will ask if they can hire you to transform their home too.

If you have any questions regarding any of the steps, I'd be happy to assist you in your DIY quest. I really hope the above steps help you as I had no prior experience, and it took some experimenting and plenty of questions on my part before I knew what to do.

I had so many people compliment me, both while I was in the midst of performing the work and after completion, I hope I can pass some of my experience on to those who may also be DYI novices.

The Beauty of a Completed Stone Veneer Project

The Beauty of a Completed Stone Veneer Project

The Beauty of a Completed Stone Veneer Project

Questions & Answers

Question: What did you do to prepare the brick before the stone veneer was added? Did you place any wire mesh or a scratch coat on the brick?

Answer: As long as the brick is clean, you can apply the veneer right over top. If the brick has any coating you would have to clean it with a brick cleaner solution, found at your local home improvement center.

Question: Did you have to prepare the painted stucco surface before applying the stone over it?

Answer: In this case, the stucco was not painted so no prep-work was required.

Question: I am beginning installation on the base of my house, under vinyl siding. The sills are heavy, did you support them first and did you install from the bottom up?

Answer: Definitely support them and install from the bottom up. I made a brace support using 2x4 wood studs,

Question: My builder applied the stone veneer but left a 6" or more area under the lowest course. I know soil cannot touch with the bottom of the lowest course, but it looked strange having the gap under the stone to the soil 6" plug under it. Any suggestions?

Answer: This is normal for sure. This is where your landscaping skills come into play. You can dig out a garden area for flowers, bushes, special lighting. Time to use your creative talents for sure. Check out on line resources too for ideas.

Question: How much did you spend on the exterior stone veneer?

Answer: it was several years ago now, but at the time I believe the cost was approx $3000 for the stone, and likely another $1000 for the cement and other materials.

Question: can scratch coat dry solid as long as the surface has been brushed (roughed up)?


Yes, the scratch coat can definitely dry solid once the surface has been roughed up. It is important to rough up the scratch coat before it dries. Once it has been roughed up, it can be completely dry before applying the stone veneer.

Question: We were about to have ledgerstone installed on the front of our house and we had a heavy rain so my question is do we need to let the scratch coat dry prior to installing the stone?

Answer: You do not have to let it dry, moisture is good.

© 2011 Paul Cronin


Paul Cronin (author) from Winnipeg on June 25, 2013:

Thanks LensMan999, I'm sure you could now upgrade your home in the Trans-Neptunian region too!

Paul Cronin (author) from Winnipeg on June 25, 2013:

Thanks for your comments epbooks. We'll be putting our home up for sale sometime in August, so I get to do it all again in our new home, Yeah!!!

LensMan999 from Trans-Neptunian region on June 25, 2013:

Installing the one veener would be quite easy now. Thanks for your useful instructions. Very interesting hub!

Elizabeth Parker from Las Vegas, NV on June 24, 2013:

That looks beautiful. What a difference!!

Paul Cronin (author) from Winnipeg on April 28, 2013:

A lot depends on whether the stucco on your home is untreated and clean, if it is you can adhere the stone veneer directly onto the stucco. Just make sure all raised peaks are scraped off the old stucco first. Also make sure your cement mixture has a bonding agent. If you're unsure about the state of the original stucco, then its best to install the metal lathe first. Stone veneer comes in many varieties and compositions from a host of manufacturers, its also a good idea to check with the manufacturer for their recommendations.

brown on April 28, 2013:

Did you use the metal lathe over the existing stucco or did you just do a scratch coat of stucco? My home is 5 years old and I would like to add stone stacked veneer to my existing stucco. I have looked all over the Internet and I am still confused. Thanks

Paul Cronin (author) from Winnipeg on April 10, 2013:

Thanks gare, hope you have as much fun as I did putting it all together. I think the best part of doing the work was the reaction of all the folks who passed by, it was like I was a community celebrity. I sure met a lot of nice people during the two months it took to complete the project. I actually miss it now, been a few years since. Maybe I should brick the top of the house too...

gare on March 24, 2013:

Thank you, this is very helpful!

Alex B from Boston, MA on December 02, 2012:

Wow, really nice work and pictures to tell the story!

Paul Cronin (author) from Winnipeg on November 10, 2012:

Sure can, just fasten metal lathe to the entire wood panel surface first. then apply the scratch coat and finally the stone veneer. Of course the wood panels must be flat and not overlapped like some sidings. If the wooden surface is not flat, then you would have to remove the wood panelling first, then install metal lathe over the entire surface, then apply the scratch coat and finally the stone veneer.

Dean on November 10, 2012:

We have a wood panels at the front of my house. Can you fix these tiles to wood

Paul Cronin (author) from Winnipeg on July 21, 2012:

Hi Brad, for my project I didn't nail anything to my house. I built a support out of two by fours and just braced the support into the ground, while leaning it against my house, sort of on an angle to the house. I then used the top of the wooden support to hold the stone veneer pieces in place. After the lowest row of stone veneer was set, usually a day later, I would start installing the stone veneer layered above. The thing to remember is each piece of stone veneer is self supporting once set. The lower row of stone veneer is not holding up the weight of all the other stones above it as in the case of masonary bricks. A lot also depends on the type of stone veneer you have purchased. Its always a good idea to confirm with the stone veneer supplier the best method of install for the type of stone you have purchased as there are many kinds, each may have their own mortar and install requirements.

brad on July 21, 2012:

How did you install the wood/brick support under the first layer of stone and then how did you remove the support? We are hesitant to drill/nail a 2x4 into our concrete foundation for support because we are worried about how the 2x4 will look when the project is done if we leave it there and are also worried about removing it without damaging the concrete the 2x4 is screwed/nailed into. Any advice?

Paul Cronin (author) from Winnipeg on July 16, 2012:

The Scratch coat should be dry before you attempt to install the stone veneer. Before the scratch coat completely dries, you should take a rough wire brush and scratch up the surface. Then when completely dry, you are now ready to mix the final mortar to adhere the stone veneer to scratch coat surface. Mix the mortar thoroughly in a cement mixer and add tint as desired during the mixing process.

When the mortar is ready, apply the mortar to the back of the stone veneer, like applying peanut butter to toast. The mortar should be at least a half inch thick covering the entire back surface of the stone veneer. Then hold the stone veneer in place against the scratch coat. It's a good idea to give the stone a little wiggle while applying some pressure to work the mortar into the grooves left from the wire brush. You should see the moisture from the mortar seep into the scratch coat, hold for at least a couple of minutes applying constant pressure, then release. For the lowest row of stones, you will need to build a temporary support to help hold them in place, likewise for any areas directly above windows or doors where there is no lower support frame. I generally built wood frame supports to hold the initial stones in place until cured.

Hope that helps. A lot also depends on the type of stone veneer you are using. Its always a good idea to talk to your stone veneer supplier to find out the best type of mortar to use for your stone veneer and also recommended installation steps.

SK on July 15, 2012:

What if the scratched surface dries before you are finished placing all of the stone?

Paul Cronin (author) from Winnipeg on November 01, 2011:

This was probably the largest project I have undertaken, I had learned so much in the process. I wanted to share all those little things you need to know to get the job done. I had so many people ask me questions when I was in the process of applying the stone, I thought this would be a good place to share the lessons learned once more. Thanks so much again for commenting and the Vote. PS the fireplace pictures are in my other hubs...

Derdriu on November 01, 2011:

Carcro: Very nice! Thank you for sharing so cogently the steps to the process of stone veneering the exterior. It makes me appreciate the outside even more now that I have some understanding of what has to be done to achieve the desired result.

What about the fireplace photos?

Voted up, etc.,


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