Installing Brick Veneer
Forget the metal grid systems that some brick veneer suppliers suggest using. They can be time-consuming to apply and are just an added expense. Even buying spacers are not necessary for my technique.
Some say that using mortar, for adhering brick, is the preferred method. However, this method is also time-consuming and very messy. Although mortar is necessary to apply between the spaces once brick is adhered, using mortar for brick installation is cumbersome. Mixing a lot of mortar is a tedious process so using less of it sounded good to me.
Since I was non-experienced in applying brick veneer, I researched the easiest way to apply the brick. I thought I found that using a bead of premium construction adhesive on each brick was just the ticket. I quickly found out that it is just as important finding the right adhesive if you don't want to have to add spacers or a grid system.
Two Easy Steps
A rustic brick wall should look old and reminiscent of what you would see in some of the heritage brick homes or buildings. Purchase thin brick that is tumbled with irregular edges for a natural old brick look.
It is best to apply the brick against a cement board. Make sure the surface for application is clean, flat and dry.
- two-inch wide brick chisel
- thin bricks
- Loctite Power Grab all-purpose construction adhesive
- mortar mix
- large pail
- grout bag
- tuck pointing tool
Step One: If you study an old brick wall, you will notice that the spacing is not perfect between bricks. Because of this and the fact that your brick will have irregular shapes, I suggest eye-balling the spacing as you are applying. Shoot for about a half an inch around all sides of each brick but don't worry about perfect measuring.
You do need to start by adhering one row of bricks along the bottom of the wall and one row up the side. Apply a bead of *Loctite construction adhesive on the back of brick and press to wall. It will immediately adhere without slipping. Since you have about twenty minutes before construction adhesive drys, you do have some time to move bricks around to adjust spacing as necessary. The last brick going width wise may have to be cut with your chisel. You will also want to have every other brick going up the wall be a half brick so that you get a running bond design.
Simply cut a brick in half with a brick chisel and hammer against a hard surface such as a slab of wood. I found this was very simple to do which surprised me since some instructions recommended using a brick saw with a diamond blade.
I also drew in a few level lines going up the wall just to give me some straight lines to eye-ball against. Although I wanted the design to look old, I also wanted my bricks to fit in somewhat uniform.
You may also think about whether or not you will want to hang anything from the wall. Although you can buy brick hangers, I decided to apply a length of wood within the bricks for the purpose of hanging.
Important Note: I had tried a couple of different premium construction adhesives that were meant for applying brick veneer. The directions said to hold brick for five seconds, and the brick would be in place. Maybe this was if you were using a metal grid system or spacers to help keep the bricks in place, but my bricks slipped down. I patiently held many bricks for about twenty minutes each thinking I must be doing something wrong since I was a rookie after all! Luckily, I was saved by a shopping trip to the home improvement store. There was a DVD playing in the adhesive aisle which showed a brick sliding down the wall, just like mine, and a brick staying firm. The DVD was comparing most construction adhesives with Loctite Quick Grab construction adhesive. I could now be a spokesperson for Loctite. It worked like a charm. My bricks adhered immediately and the rest of the job was completed in no time at all.
Step Two: Mix mortar in a pail with water until the consistency of peanut butter or toothpaste. Fill a grout bag and squeeze mortar in between spaces. It should flow easily. I cut the tip of the grout bag a little larger since my spacing was at least a half an inch.
Once you have a few rows of mortar filled in, use your tuck pointing tool to roughly go over the finish. You will want to flatten the mortar but don't worry about having the mortar perfectly smooth and uniform. You still want it to look like a vintage wall. Wipe off any excess mortar, that gets on brick, with a wet sponge.
If the wall is in a moist area, I would recommend applying a sealer over the entire wall when finished.
This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.
© 2010 Renee Hanlon
Kyle on November 03, 2019:
Holy crap. Thanks so much for writing this. I was super frustrated using a different adhesive. Switched to Locktite and the rest of the job was a breeze... I was prepared to sand down my walls, use tile set, etc. Much appreciated!
Francesca on February 04, 2018:
Where can we purchase these brick veneers?
Jeff on January 13, 2018:
I will be installing a brick vineer wall in my finished basememt and this is exactly what I was looking for!!
Thanka so much for sharing!
Deb on September 11, 2017:
Is it necessary to use cement board for an accent wall when regular sheetrock already exists?
Peter Javenes on November 28, 2016:
Who manufactured the brick you used ?
Sue on October 02, 2016:
Where can I find face brick? Must it be ordered? I live in NC.
Elle on November 04, 2015:
How much did the project cost?
Kevin Howell from Maysville KY on April 29, 2011:
great hub, If you are laying against a concrete or block wall, parge the wall with mortar and let dry. Next mix 1 bag of type s premix mortar with 2 shovels of portland cement for great adhesion.
angelaglancy from Seattle on March 29, 2011:
Love the idea of a brick wall. Brings rustic charm and makes any room look comfy.