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How to Renovate an Old Garden Shed Into a Food-Storage Area

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Converted Food-Storage Shed (Using Kitchen Units for More Efficient Storage)

Converted Food-Storage Shed (Using Kitchen Units for More Efficient Storage)

An Easy Way for More Food Storage

We save £400 ($600) a year by buying food in bulk when it’s on offer (genuine offers) and storing it in our garden shed (e.g. buying several crates of tins of baked beans when a supermarket slashes the price to half price for a week).

This article gives an overview of how we revamped an old shed to create a modern storage system (using kitchen units) to make food storage more efficient and easier to manage. In addition to doubling our storage capacity, this system helps us manage cycling, stock-taking (so we don’t overstock on particular items), pushing the new stock to the back, and moving older stock to the front. I also demonstrate how we saved money on this DIY project by recycling and upcycling building materials, e.g. doors, windows and tiles.

A Cost-Effective Way to Shop

We’ve been bulk-buying food and storing it in our shed since I designed and built a purpose-built double shed in 1998. One part of the shed is my workshop and the other section (with its own entrance) is a storage shed (with freezer) for my wife. Initially, I put an old cupboard (which a friend gave us) and some shelving in my wife’s shed so that when she did the shopping she could store a few surplus items that she bought because they were on offer.

However, these days shopping has got a lot easier in the UK. With free online shopping (food delivered directly to your door from the supermarket) and price-comparison sites that (with the press of a few buttons) allow you to compare prices between different supermarkets for any product, it's become much easier to spot the bargains.

Consequently, in recent years, our old food store had become too cumbersome to manage for efficient storage of food supplies; hence the need to radically upgrade it to what is effectively a mini kitchen (minus the kitchen sink) at the end of the garden.

The Project Objectives

Using my project management skills and the three cornerstones to any good ‘Project’ (Time, Cost and Quality), at the beginning of the ‘planning stage’, I set myself a number of goals and objectives.

  1. The ‘Cost’ should be kept to below the savings we make on bulk storage of bargain-priced foods over a five-year period e.g. budget set at £2,000 ($3,000).
  2. The ‘Quality’ should focus on ‘durability’ of the build and materials used, so that the new build will last for years to come and not fall to bits within just a few years through wear and tear; and focus on ‘functionality’ and ‘efficiency’ e.g. ease of use, to make stocktaking and storage easy and convenient.
  3. The ‘Time’ to compete the DIY ‘Project’ within one month to minimise on disruption and inconvenience e.g. for the duration of the build (renovations) the surplus food normally stored in the shed would have to be stacked in our dining room and the two freezers we have in the shed placed outside in the garden, with tarpaulin over them to protect them from the elements (weather).
  4. Finally, but just as important, a crucial aim of the ‘Project’ would be to increase the storage capacity by at least 50%, allowing us greater capacity to store bargain-priced food and save even more money; so that over time, the cost of the ‘Renovations’ would eventually be recouped; not that money is our prime concern (being British), the prime concern to us is to just make storing the food easier and more efficient (any eventual financial return on the costs of the is just a bonus).

The Importance of Good Planning

Spending quality time in the planning stage for any DIY project like this is critical to better ensure a successful outcome. Skimp or rush the planning or get it wrong, and the whole project could end up a disaster (or at the very least not meet your expectations). Without proper planning, the project can end up too costly, take too long or yield disappointing end results (e.g. poor-quality build and or materials, and or not be fit for purpose).

In the planning stage, ‘risks’ should be taken into account; hence the importance of understanding good ‘Risk Management' to help you identify the likelihood and potential severity of risks and take provisions to mitigate against those risks should they occur.

Other elements of good planning include getting the design right, doing proper research e.g. costs and availability of materials, and thorough preparation. All this takes time, and in my case, it was 12 months from concept to start of the build.

It was while standing in the shed looking at how cumbersome it was trying to stack surplus bargain-priced food into an old cupboard not designed for food storage, and the stacks of food crammed together on inadequate shelving, that I had the conception to renovate the whole shed and transform it into a proper food storage area; suitable for our needs.

Scale Drawings of Proposed Food Store

Plan view of proposed food storage shed drawn to scale

Plan view of proposed food storage shed drawn to scale

Side Elevation view of proposed food storage shed drawn to scale

Side Elevation view of proposed food storage shed drawn to scale

From Concept to Preparation

Early one spring, the first thing I did when I had the concept (while having a cup of coffee to help me think) was to visualise in my mind's eye what was needed; that vision was a mini-kitchen with proper kitchen units and worktop, but less the kitchen sink.

The next step was to take accurate measurements and draw a rough sketch of how the kitchen units and worktop would fit into the shed. Having renovated our kitchen a few years earlier, and fitting the kitchen units and worktop myself, I had a pretty good concept from the experience of how to install kitchen units and worktops and some of the problems you might face in fitting them.

I knew for example that you fit the wall units before the base units and the role ‘fillers’ play in getting a perfect fit. A filler is a piece of matching wood panel to fill the gaps so that the overall width of all the cabinets is the same as the width of the wall; fillers are also used in corners so that a door or drawer is far enough away from the adjoining cabinet (at a right angle to it) so that the door or drawer isn’t prevented from opening by an obstructing door/drawer handle.

Early in the summer, I gave my rough sketches and accurate measurements to a friend, who uses Google SketchUp, and from that, he was able to very quickly draw a detailed sketch to scale; which then formed the bases of researching, sourcing and costing the kitchen cabinets and other materials I would need.

Buy food in bulk when on offer is a great way to save money

Turning My Vision Into Reality

After my friend drew upscaled drawings from my rough sketches I spent the rest of the summer (as a low priority) researching kitchen units and other items, such as the double depth wine rack that I visualised, and sourcing materials.

For quality and durability, I specifically wanted the kitchen unit carcases constructed with the thicker 18mm ContiBoard (veneered chipboard) panelling rather than the usual 15mm sold in many DIY stores; albeit as its only for use in a garden shed and not a proper kitchen I wasn’t too fussed about what the doors would look like, as long as they were functional.

As regards the double depth wine rack, I make my own wines, usually from surplus fruits picked from our garden in the autumn; although my favourite homemade wine is tea wine fortified with a little vodka to make it a dessert rather than table wine.

While searching for something else, I’d previously seen a sturdy wooden and metal double depth wine rack on Amazon, so my research and sourcing the wine rack would focus on finding one within a narrowly specified size range to neatly fit the available space. My specific interest in a double depth wine rack being the obvious one of the space-saving advantages (e.g. doubling the storage capacity for full and empty wine bottles in a given space), an important consideration for my project as I make my own wines.

Having done all the research and sourcing, the next phase was to actually place the order for the kitchen units and anything else I needed for the project e.g. the wine rack. As it would require working in an unheated shed, and a certain amount of working outside during the renovations I decided that early spring would be an ideal starting time e.g. late March, when in southern England the weather starts to get a little warmer, albeit with the British weather you can never guarantee it will be dry.

So as we wouldn’t need anything until early March, we decided to wait and buy the kitchen units in the January Sale; by doing so, we got a big enough discount on the kitchen units to cover the cost of the worktops.

As everything was delivered by early March on time, we were ready to start on the Renovations on the revamped food store at the end of the month, as planned in my project plan.

Recycling and Upcycling Salvaged Windows and Doors

Recycling materials and goods in any DIY project is a great cost saver and can be a real bonus as it adds value to the project which might not otherwise be achieved because of costs and or availability of resources.

When I gutted the shed, although I scrapped the old furniture and some of the shelving because it was only ContiBoard (veneered chipboard), much of which was only 15mm depth, I did salvage the rest of the wood, and the timber; in the event that I might be able to re-use some of it in the Renovations.

Also, a few years previously a friend gave us a pair of doors from a modern ContiBoard wardrobe, which I shoved to the back of my shed (the workshop) in the event that someday I might find a use for them. These doors, I thought would be ideal for a broom cupboard which I planned to build in the corner of the food storeroom.

The biggest windfall for my DIY Renovation Project was a selection of aluminium framed double glazed windows, with teak (hardwood) surrounds wooden frames. This came about because just after we placed the order for the kitchen units we decided it was time to replace our old double glazing on the house with modern, more efficient units.

The old windows were ok, but with aluminium frames (which is a good conductor of heat) there was an element of heat loss around the frames during the winter months which sometimes generated a noticeable draft in the window area; and with being encased in a wooden frame (albeit hardwood) there was a requirement to climb ladders once every five years to slap a bit of preservative on to help preserve the wood.

The modern units we got are great, certainly a lot more efficient at keeping the heat in, and no more cool areas within the window area; and as a bonus, are maintenance-free. The only reason we opted to change the windows at this time is that we found a small local window installation company (Caddy Windows Ltd, Bristol) that charges just material and labour, so no extortionate prices that are common with the large window installation companies.

As part of the contract, I specifically asked if they could take care in removing the old windows (rather than just ripping them out) and if so, to leave them with me rather than the usual practice of carting them away. The company did a marvellous job at removing the old windows and only damaged one wooden frame because it was just too stubborn in coming out.

Although in my original plan I hadn’t intended to replace the windows in the shed, it was a welcome additional part of the plan because the old windows were just single pane plate glass in pressure treated softwood frames.

Whereas recycling the old windows from the house, for installation in the sheds, meant I would end up with the sheds having double glazed windows that would open (which would help to keep the sheds a little warmer in the winter and could be useful during the summer for ventilation; and replacing softwood window frames to hardwood (teak) has the added advantage of requiring less maintenance to prevent wood rot.

Of course, using the old windows from the house to upgrade the shed windows raises the question of how well they’d fit, especially as the sheds are brick built (breeze blocks) so the openings can’t easily be changed. But as luck would have it, as will be apparent later in this article, the replacement windows were a pretty good fit; two of them so perfect in size that they could have been ‘made to measure’.

Another stroke of luck was a week before I was due to start the Renovation Project our next door neighbour dumped an old uPVC double glazed door in their front garden with the intention of disposing of it in a skip. I asked them kindly if I could have it, so I got a nice new (second hand) double glazed door to also fit on the shed. And as it turned out, that was a perfect fit too.

Scheduling Tasks to Help Keep You on Track

My initial brief was to complete the project within a month, to minimise disruption. Prior to starting the DIY Renovation project I drew up a schedule of tasks to gauge how long the project might take, to help keep me on schedule and to ensure the sequencing of tasks was efficient and logical e.g. no point in trying to fit the kitchen base units until the floor tiles are laid, or tile the back wall until the worktops were fitted.

The schedule I drew up indicated the project would take three weeks, well within my initial target of a month; giving me plenty of tolerance to complete the Project on ‘Time’, given any unforeseen problems (risks).

Those looking at the task list below may think that I could have done a lot of the tasks a lot quicker and completed the project even sooner e.g. in two weeks; and that may be the case, but the biggest mistake people make when scheduling tasks is not giving themselves enough time to complete the project (contingency).

Whereas by being generous (realistic) with the timings, as long as I completed the project within the month then I was more than happy to have achieved each day’s task on time. The big advantage is that rather than be under pressure (where you’re most likely to make mistakes) I was able to pace myself (with plenty of coffee breaks) and do each task properly, and to a high standard, at a leisurely, and enjoyable pace.

Using a Task List for Scheduling

This is the Task List I drew up to keep me on track in renovating our shed to an efficient Food Storage area.


Day 1

Remove food, fixtures & fittings and freezers from shed. And refill freezers on patio.

Day 2

Remove old door and fit new double glazed door.

Day 3

Remove old main windows and add brickwork

Day 4

Fit new main aluminium window

Day 5

Make new side window frame, Remove old side window, fit new window and cement.

Day 6

Make good both windows

Day 7

Wood stain window and door frames

Day 8

Sealant around windows, paint white stone paint, fit lock and cable clips, prepare for tiling.

Day 9

Lay floor Tiles

Day 10

Lay remaining floor Tiles

Day 11

Grout floor tiles and fit corner wall unit

Day 12

Install fitted kitchen wall units

Day 13

Install fitted kitchen base units

Day 14

Install worktops

Day 15

Build bespoke broom cupboard

Day 16

Build bespoke broom cupboard

Day 17

Wall Tile, back of work surfaces

Day 18

Grout worktop tiles, add final shelf and do final finishing touches

Day 19

Tidy and reorganise food store, and wine rack, and bring small freezer back in

Day 20

Bring large freezer, and all food and drinks back into food store

Gutting the Shed in Preparation for the Renovations

The first task of the renovations, on day one, was to empty the old cupboard and all the shelves of food and drink, moving them to the house (our dining room) for temporary storage; and then emptying the two freezers so that they could be moved to outside, re-stocked, and covered in tarpaulin for protection from the weather. Then, in order to keep the freezers operational, laying an exterior cable extension to the freezers and plugging them back into the mains. Then it was just a case of ripping everything else out of the shed (gutting it) so that it was just an empty shell; a blank canvas.

Modifying the Door Frame

Accommodating the Door locking mechanism

Accommodating the Door locking mechanism

Recycled Door a Perfect Fit

I spent the next week removing the old door and windows and fitting the new (recycled) ones. First to replace was the door. Having removed the old door the replacement door happened to be a perfect fit, so I didn’t need to remove and rebuild the old door frame, or use an angle grinder to enlarge the opening.

As it was an uPVC door designed to fit into an uPVC frame the only alterations I had to make was to cut a series of notches out of the wooden door frame and face them with thin strips of metal to create recesses to accommodate the locking mechanism; as shown in the attached photo.

Minor Alterations Around Window Openings for a Good Fit of Recycled Windows

In replacing the windows, again, the small window next to the door was a perfect fit, although the replacement main window on the other wall was smaller, and to fit it I had to add a row of bricks to the bottom and several bricks stood on end up one side; to bind the side bricks to the existing wall I used wall ties and then left it a day for the cement to set.

While replacing the windows in the food storage shed I took the opportunity to also replace the windows in my adjoining shed; my workshop. Again, having taken out the glass pane from my workshop window, our old bathroom window was a perfect fit, and the replacement for the main window in my workshop was the same width, but not quite as high; so again I just made up the difference with a row of house bricks.

The attached before and after photos demonstrate how they fitted, and the way the replacement windows transformed the sheds.