Which Type of Nail Gun or Nailer Do You Need for the Job?
Ahh…the good old claw hammer. Such a wonderfully ubiquitous construction tool. Especially if you’re just putting up a picture on the wall. Or doing a quick repair on something, or just venting your frustration… But seriously...if the job is more involved, and you’ll be hammering away until you’ve got a headache…you’ll really want to get a nail gun, or nailer.
Not only does a nail gun save you a hell of a lot of time, you’ll save yourself the headache as well. Instead of mulitiple taps to get than nail in, you’ll need only one from the nail gun…pow!..and it’s in. When it comes to nail guns, unfortunately one size doesn’t fit all. You need one that best fits the job at hand. There are several different types for specific jobs...
A Word about Safety, First
Any tool can be dangerous in the wrong hands. This is especially so for power tools. While nail guns have been designed to not fire unless the pressure tip is first pressed against the work, you can still accidentally tap it against something if you’re pressing the trigger as well (see dual-contact firing, just below).
There are two types of firing mechanisms in a nail gun. One is dual-contact firing, where the nail will fire as long as you hold down the trigger and press the nosing against the work. This allows you to fire a nail, move to the next spot and continue with a series of nails without having to release and re-press the trigger each time.
The other is sequential firing, which is a bit safer. This requires that you release the trigger first, before each nail is fired. The nosing must be pressed onto the work before the trigger will function. Improvements in safety of nail guns is ongoing.
Be alert at all times...please.
Let’s start with the heaviest duty nailer..the framing nailer. As the name suggests, this type of nailer is used for wood framing in a building, and heavy construction. This frequently requires up to 3½” nails to join 2x4’s. Heavy-duty is the order of the day. All these models offer switchable contact or sequential trip, and tool-free depth-drive adjustment.
The next type is a roofing nailer. This generally uses shorter nails with larger heads, and can also be used for siding and similar materials as well. The nails usually come on a coil. These models also offer switchable contact or sequential trip, and tool-free depth-drive adjustment.
Our next type is a flooring nailer. These are specially designed to make laying tongue-and-groove floor boards simple and fast. You won’t have to wear out your knees. You simply hold the nailer against the edge of the board and a moderate whack on the plunger with the nylon mallet, and the nail is in..at the right angle and the right depth..every time.
The finishing nailer is your best all-around nailer for indoor trim and similar jobs. This uses shorter, lighter gauge nails, usually 14 to 16 gauge, 1” to 2½” nails. This is used for mouldings around windows and doors, baseboards, chair rails and such, as well as cabinet making. Finishing nailers are available both as air compression and as cordless nailers. All these models offer switchable contact or sequential trip, and tool-free depth-drive adjustment.
A lighter duty nailer is a brad nailer for 18-gauge nails, 5/8” to 2”. Brad nailers differ from the finishing nailers mostly by the fact that the nail magazine is not angled as with finishing and framing nailers. The brad nailer is usually used for smaller wood projects, upholstery and other such precision work. While the brads are small, and leave a fairly tiny hole to fill, they hold really well. As with most nailers these days, all these models offer switchable contact or sequential trip, and tool-free depth-drive adjustment.
About cordless nailers
The cordless nailers are currently more expensive than the pneumatic models, but of course they don’t require that you have a compressor, or a hose to deal with. Some cordless nailers use a fuel cell for nail propulsion, which needs to be replaced every 500 nails though, so you have to take that cost into account.
The battery-charged models don’t have such a requirement. The cordless, use-it-anywhere aspect is the real selling feature here, much like cordless drills have freed up the necessity of a power cord.
That pretty much nails it…
While nail guns (or nailers) have been around for about 25 years, many refinements have been made. Newer materials like magnesium and aluminum alloys have made the tools lighter. Plus more attention has been paid to ergonomic design, so that the tool is properly balanced and easier to grip. Adjusting the firing method no longer requires a special tool. Adjusting the depth of the nail no longer requires adjusting the air compressor.
Cordless models which don’t require a compressor, and therefore a hose are now widely available. Whether you’re a professional contractor or a DIY homeowner, you’ll find you get the job done in less than half the time it would have taken with a hammer and nails.
Many of these nailers could pay for themselves in no time.
This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.
Questions & Answers
I own a porter cable nailer f350. Can I use three-inch finishing nails in my porter cable nailer?
I couldn't find a model f350. The nearest is a fr350, which is a framing nailer. As such, the nails have larger, round heads. Without seeing this model, I can't say whether it would accept finishing nails. I would imagine that the firing mechanism is sized to shoot large head nails, and it may jam if you tried using finishing nails, even if they fit in the magazine feed.
You're on your own on this one..so be careful. I will not be held responsible or liable for any actions you take.Helpful 1
What kind of cordless nail gun can switch between framing and finishing nails?
To the best of my knowledge and research, you can't do such a thing.
The shortest nails you can use with a framing nailer are about 2 3/8", and the longest nails for a finishing nailer are about 2". So you couldn't use the same nails in either type of gun.
The framing nailer is also designed to fire nails with a sizeable head on them, whereas the finishing nails are fairly 'headless.'
In other words, these nailers are both purpose-built, with no cross-over compatibilities.Helpful 13
I'm going to build a shed and will buy a framing nailer to build the floor, walls, and rafters, and to attach OSB. But what about the siding and roofing, can I use the types of nails for siding and roofing in a framing nailer? Or will I just need to break out the ol' hammer to complete the siding and roofing on my shed?
Most framing nailers have a minimum fastener (nail) length of 2". Whereas, roofing nails are typically 1 1/4". You could probably rent a roofing nailer if you're just doing a shed.
Here's a useful page about correct roofing installation, from the shingle manufacturer, IKO: https://www.iko.be/en/blog/proper-nailing-essentia...
Siding nails require a smaller head than roofing nails, so you'll have to check with your local building center to see what's available for the roofing nailer you're going to use.Helpful 11
I want to install pine paneling measuring 5/16"x 3-1/2"x 8', over a Gyproc wall. What gun and nail size is best for this installation?
Unfortunately, Gyproc is probably not solid enough to hold the nails. You could try it, but the nails may loosen over time. If you choose to go this route or use my next suggestion, a finishing nailer with 1-1/4" nails would do the job.
Alternatively, you could use 1x3 strapping horizontally, spacing them every 12 to 16", over the Gyproc, making sure they are screwed into the studs behind. Then attach the panels with the nailer at the strapping points.
Your other option is to use adhesive caulking (LePage's PL200 or equivalent) to apply the panels directly to the Gyproc wall. If the wall is in good shape and smooth, it should hold quite well.Helpful 11
I’m going to attach 3/8"-thick sheet siding on the side of a building onto 2x4 studs. What’s the best nailer that you recommend?
A finishing nailer will work fine. Use about 1-1/4" long 16 gauge nails.
If these are subpanels which you're going to cover with a finished material, you could use a roofing nailer for the subpanels and a finishing nailer for the outer material where the nail heads/holes are less likely to be seen.Helpful 9
© 2011 Tim Nichol