My Granberg Alaskan MKIII Chainsaw Mill Rails

Updated on January 1, 2012

Making My Own Rails for My Granberg Alaskan MKIII Chainsaw Mill

I ordered my Alaskan chainsaw mill so that I could mill my own lumber for projects that include a covered front porch deck with a ramp for my Dad, a Mexican style shade structure and a back porch deck. I needed to mill 1" decking, 2" x 6" boards, 6" x 6" posts, corbel blocks and 6" x 8" beams. I had originally intended to create rails to slide the mill apparatus out of nice straight lumber. I decided after getting the mill, that I didn't want to risk milling bad lumber, so I made my own 12' rails and here's how I did it for less than half the cost of the manufacturers 9' rails.

Materials for the Rails

I was at the hardware store looking for a ladder because I saw that someone had used half of an extension ladder as rails for their chainsaw mill. Needing to mill a 10' log, the rails needed to be longer than the log. So I was looking at purchasing a 24' ladder so I could use the 12' section. At $150, I thought that would be a waste of a good ladder and I was feeling crafty. Since they don't keep the ladders in the aisles, I found just what I needed while snooping around the back of the store where they keep the over-sized stuff.

They're called Powerstruts and are used as metal framing for electrical, hvac and other stuff. I bought three 10' pieces and cut one of them into six 1' cross bars and two 2' pieces to weld onto the ends of the other two ten-footers.

Powerstruts

Don't forget to grind off the rough cut edges!

Welded

Nice to have a welder when you need to glue two sticks of steel together. I usually hire my buddy to do my welding, however, I can do a couple ugly welds that hold!

Mark the holes for the cross braces. The holes in the channel of the powerstruts have 2" spacing on-center. The cross braces on the ends placed at 1 foot from the end skips 6 holes. The pattern of the holes skipped: (x = cross brace)

6 holes X 11 holes X 11 holes X 10 holes X 11 holes X 11 holes X 6 holes

Hardware

I used big bolts that could be tooled with the most common tool every sawyer has, a chainsaw tool! Don't forget the beefy washers and nylon lock nuts. The rails can be adjusted to be closer together for smaller logs on site, I can only imagine doing this with hardwoods, otherwise, skinny trees aren't worth milling.

The right tool for bolting things together, but the wrong tool for this job!

You can work it into there, but it's time consuming to get it out and you might bend the strut!

The best tools for this job:

two chainsaw tools! You will have to slip each tool in the ends of the channel and re-place it over each bolt again as you squeeze it. I set all the hardware in place before tightening.

I took the time to square all the cross pieces with one side then doing the other side went really fast.

12' Rails DONE!

Here's the breakdown:

$60.........Three 10' Powerstruts (3 @ $20 each)

$15.........Hardware (1" 5/8 bolt, 2 washers & locknut - 12 sets @ $1.25)

$75......... Total

2 welds, edge grinding & bolt together: 3 hours

Screw and level (side to side) a mounting block then add a 1" block to space it for level end to end.

Adjust the screws and Voila! I used 4 1/2 inch long screws. Make sure that they don't penetrate into your cutting plane.

Check for level, then double check after each end is fixed and triple check . For my logs, I leveled my trailer with the center of the blocked log so that I was not having to make adjustments with minor angles.

On the thick end of the log, I put some level cross-grain cuts and chiseled them for a "shoe" for the cross brace to rest in. Next time, I think that this will be the method that I used on both ends of the rail apparatus. Of course, the cuts on the thick end will be deep enough to be level with the small end and will require cross-cut "shoes" for the 2nd and/or 3rd cross braces closest to that end.

***NOTE: Update - Chainsawing "shoes" and using small shims turned out to be the best method. On a few logs, using a small spacing block on the smaller diameter end helps eliminate crossing the grain end-to-end.

Checking for level side to side on this end! It's level, it's just the camera man leaning.

Text with BIG Picture

After the 1st cut and shimming to keep it from pinching the saw.

For 1st cuts, I found that shimming isn't as necessary if you are going to plane the boards like I am going to do. When milling bead-sized cuts, the heavy slab definitely needs to be shimmed as you go.

Top lopped off!

Perfect 1st cut. Not only first cut on this log, but my first cut ever will a chainsaw mill!

2nd cut - first 1" plank.

Ready for the next cut.

Treating this lumber with Cedarshield then staining with a nice red stain. Soon to be ripped for decking.

Will add a few photos of the finish decking material and the completed deck soon!!!

Do you have a chainsaw mill?

Are you making your own rails?

Did you try to build these rails?

I'd love to hear about it!

Questions & Answers

    Comments

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      • profile image

        Richard Sanders 

        4 months ago

        Yes sir I made my own rails I havnt used them yet but Im sure they will work fine thinks for the idea a lot better then a board

      • profile image

        Dale 

        2 years ago

        What type of chain did you use?

        Thanks

      working

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