How to Calibrate a Hayward Goldline Aqua-Rite or Swim Pure Plus Pool Salt Chlorine Generator
Step 1: Adjusting Salinity (Salt) level
Before the chlorine generator can be calibrated correctly, the salinity—or salt level in the pool water—will need to be at the correct level. For these systems, it should ideally be between 3200-3600 ppm (parts per million). This can be tested using a salt test meter or salt test strips. I personally use the by SafeDip. This meter is very accurate and also measures pH and chlorine levels. Solaxx MET01A Digital Test Meter
If the salt level is low, or no salt has ever been added to the pool, you'll need to increase the salinity level and allow it to circulate for 24 hours before starting the calibration process. It is also important for any salt chlorination system that the stabilizer level in the pool water is between 50-70 ppm.
Step 2: Locating the Calibration Screen
Once the salinity is adjusted to optimal level, the calibration process can begin. With the pump running and unit set to "Auto" position, press the "Diagnostics" button five times. The screen should display "- 0".
Step 3: Setting the Salinity Level
This step can get tricky and may need to be repeated. While on the calibration screen and with the pool pump still running, push the "Auto" switch down to the "Off" position for two seconds.
Now push the switch back up to the "Auto" position again. Wait approximately 10 seconds (you will hear the relay kick on). The calibration screen will start counting down from a higher salt reading than what the actual level in the pool water is.
Once you see your salinity level, push the switch up to "super chlorinate" and then immediately back down to the "Auto" position.
It is now calibrated. Press the diagnostics button several times until you see your salinity level displayed.
More About the Calibration Process
Step 3 takes some practice as it counts down VERY quickly. For example, if the salinity level in the pool water is 3300 ppm, when the switch is pushed from the "Off" position up to the "Auto" position, after 10 seconds, it will display a set of numbers that start going down immediately. It might start at, say, 4800 (could be higher or lower). Push the switch to "super-chlorinate" when it hits 3300 ppm. Then quickly push back down to "Auto."
This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.
Questions & Answers
The control board of my chlorine generator shows no lights, even though I get different numbers when I push the key. What do you think the problem could be?
This usually indicates a bad circuit board. It may still work and generate chlorine even if the lights do not work.Helpful 6
My control board shows 3,500, but two independent tests say 2,700 and zero chlorine, and cell tests say it’s good. Which one is correct?
Chlorine readings and salt readings are two different things. A lot of people think if the salt reading is high, then the chlorine is high. I usually tell people to go to an ocean that's full of salt and test the chlorine level there; it's of course zero.
If your salinity level is 2,700, add 80 pounds of salt. This should bring it closer to 3,300-3,400. The problem you have is with an un-calibrated system. You should believe the actual test readings, not what the system says. It just needs to be recalibrated.Helpful 10
How do I find T-cell on the screen of a chlorine generator when I go through the process but the T-cell never shows up?
When scrolling through the screens using the diagnostics button, the T-cell will show up on the very last screen (right before the salinity level reading.)Helpful 7
© 2018 Rob Hampton