How to Get Rid of Green, Yellow, and Black Pool Algae
How to Get Rid of Green, Blue, Yellow, and Black Pool Algae
Swimming pool algae come in three different colors: Green (Blue), Yellow, and Black. Green or blue is the most common type of pool algae and also the easiest to remove than yellow or black pool algae. All these types of pool algae thrive in a swimming pool that is not well chlorinated.
Green/Blue Pool Algae
Why is My Pool Water Green?
If you are asking yourself or any other person that question, the answer is because you have green algae in your pool.
Green or blue pool algae normally form due to poor pool sanitization (chlorination) and poor filtration.
Green algae will freely float on top pool water, which makes the pool water appear green in color. Green algae are the easiest type of pool algae to get rid of.
Some green algae will stick on the pool walls, but the good news is that they are very easy to brush off than yellow or black pool algae.
To get rid of green pool algae, you need to do a light pool shocking using liquid chlorine as included in the steps below. Alternatively, I prefer using an to get rid of less stubborn green algae in the pool. algaecide
Algaecide can also be used in a pool like once a week to prevent algae, especially during hot and humid climate like in summer when pool algae are common. Scroll down and you will find every step to perform in order to clear green algae in your pool using chlorine.
Yellow Pool Algae
If your pool water is yellow or orange in color, that means that your pool is keeping mustard or yellow algae, which makes your pool water and parts turn yellow or orange in color.
Yellow algae look like sand or pollen. They are very sticky and grow on pool walls that don't get lots of sunlight.
Yellow algae are chlorine-resistant and very stubborn, and in some cases, they will grow even on pool equipment, toys, floats, or even bathing suits.
Yellow pool algae are stingy and you cannot get rid of them with average use of chlorine or algaecide like in the case of green algae.
You will need to deeply shock your pool using a high dosage of chlorine, and clean all other affected equipment using chlorine. You can find a step by step guide on how to get rid of yellow pool algae below.
Black Pool Algae
Black pool algae are very hard to get rid of compared to green or yellow algae. However, they are not very common like green and yellow pool algae.
Black algae have a very strong defense mechanism and deep roots that make it very hard to remove. They will normally look like small dark black spots on your pool walls.
To get rid of black pool algae, you will need to do heavy pool brushing, vacuuming, and chlorination. There is a complete guide below that you can follow to remove black pool algae.
Algae form mainly in hot and humid climates or during the summer, simply because chlorine reduces as water temperature increases.
But don't think, even for a moment, that maintaining chlorine levels only is enough. You need to keep an appropriate balance of all chemicals in the pool.
Most chemicals used in the pool, such as pH chemicals, sanitizers, Alkali, Phosphate, stabilizers and more will affect how chlorine works and it is consumed.
For this reason, the only perfect way to avoid having green, yellow, black, or cloudy pool water in the future is to maintain the correct chemical balance in your pool water, which comes down to an accurate pool water testing kit.
Swimming algae pool will cause a number of health hazards ranging from skin coating and slippery floors to harmful bacteria growth and rescue prevention. Healthy swimming pool water should be a tinted blue color and not any other color.
Checklist of Items Needed for Removing Pool Algae
Here is a brief checklist of all that you may need to clear up a green swimming pool:
- pH adjusting chemicals
- Chlorine shock
- Vacuuming machine
- Backwash Hoses
- A working swimming pool filter system
- A large leaf net
- Accurate swimming pool water test kit
- Pool brush
6 Essential Steps for Removing Pool Algae
Now that you have all the necessary chemicals and equipment for clearing green, or yellow or black pool algae, you need to begin troubleshooting the pool water one step at a time until you end up with clear blue pool water.
This is a long process and cannot be achieved in a day or two. For green algae, the work will not be a lot as you will not have to brush a lot and may clear up in a matter of hours after adding chlorine or algaecide. Meanwhile, before adding any chemical in your pool, follow these steps:
Step One: Brush Your Pool
The very first step depending on the type of pool algae you have in your pool will be to brush your pool. Yellow and black pool algae will need a heavy brushing of pool walls and floor.
Green algae may need a light brushing of pool walls and floor. However, most of the algae will float freely on top of your pool water.
Step Two: Remove Large Debris
Large and visible debris should be dealt with first. Here, you will need to use a large leaf net instead of the hand skimmer.
Note: A large leaf net will stir up the entire pool water and move debris that has settled beneath the pool. As a result, the pool water may look dirtier, but it will eventually settle down with time.
Step Three: Vacuum to Remove Small Particles
As a warning, be cautious not to use a vacuuming equipment if the pool water still has large debris floating or settled at the bottom of the swimming pool. This will block your underground pipes and filter.
Note: Only vacuum your swimming pool when you can clearly see the bottom of the pool to ensure that no large debris still remain.
Step Four: Correct the pH Level
Your swimming pool may still be green, but free of large debris and small particles. At this stage, you need to test and establish the pH level before adding any pH solution. A pH level of 7.4 ppm to 7.8 ppm is fine. Anything above or below that needs attention.
Use the pH Plus (pH Increaser) to increase a pH level lower than 7.4 ppm. On the other hand, use pH Minus (pH Reducer) to decrease a pH level higher than 7.8 ppm. Ensure that the pH level is within the correct range, or else the swimming pool water will not clear up.
Step Five: Shock the Swimming Pool
To shock the swimming pool, you chlorinate the water to kill algae and any bacteria that is present. I like using liquid chlorine, preferably sodium hypo chloride. It works much faster than the powder counterpart. Check out when and how to shock your swimming pool.
Note: It's important to mention that this is an experimental process, therefore results will not appear after one day. A clear pool water is usually achieved after two or three days of correct chlorination. If you feel that you need to use more chlorine, don't use a large amount in one go. Use the chlorine in a range of 3 or 4 gallons to start and wait to see if the pool clears up. If the first chlorination makes little to no change, add another 3 or 4 gallons of chlorine the following day.
Remember, this is a normal method used to raise free chlorine levels. Because a swimming pool cannot be over-shocked, you can add more and more chlorine every day until the swimming pool water totally clears up. If you find yourself in this stage, you may need to add algaecide to help kill the algae faster.
Chlorine levels in the pool water may be high as a result of this process, however, it will reduce with time. Don't worry too much. The main thing here is to focus on the clarity of the pool water.
Step Six: Run the Filter 24 Hours a Day
The more you run the swimming pool filter the faster the water will clear up. Also, remember that green or dirty swimming pool water will clog the filter system more frequently during this process, particularly the DE and Cartridge pool filters. As such, you need to backwash your filter every day to ensure that the filter operates effectively during the process.
Note: The more the filter runs and the more it is backwash, the faster the swimming pool water will clear up.
Also, if you have the DE filter, this process may be shorter since the DE filter is more efficient in clearing up pool water than the sand or Cartridge counterparts. If you use a DE filter, remember to add a new DE substance after every backwash to speed up the clearing process.
In addition, whichever filter you are using, ensure that your pool filter system is functioning properly. If the filter system is not working properly, the pool water will never clear up after all these efforts, and you will have to replace or repair the filter.
Important Tips to Remember Before Removing Pool Algae
- Free chlorine (added chlorine) is the substance responsible for attacking bacteria and other contaminants in the pool water. As the free chlorine is used up, combined chlorine (or chloramine) is formed. Combined chlorine cannot kill bacteria and other harmful organisms thriving in the pool water. The higher the combined chlorine in the pool water, the higher the chances of having pool algae.
- There are a number of chlorine shocks you can buy. Whichever chlorine shock you choose to use, ensure that free chlorine is always maintained at 3 ppm.
- It is recommended to maintain combined chlorine always below 0.5 ppm or at 0.0 ppm, if possible. To reduce chloramine levels in the pool water, the affected swimming pool should be shock chlorinated.
- If you have an outdoor swimming pool, you can use Cyanuric acid as chlorine stabilizer to help prevent UV rays or hot water temperatures from consuming free chlorine at higher rates.
- Ensure that you maintain the correct pH level of your pool water. It should always be between 7.4 ppm and 7.8 ppm with 7.6 ppm being the ideal level.
- To control the pH, use either pH Plus (pH Increaser) such as muriatic or sulfuric acid, or use pH Minus (pH Reducer) such as soda ash to add or to reduce the pH balance respectively.
- When total alkalinity increase out of range (between 80 ppm and 120 ppm), pH and calcium will significantly increase to destructive to levels.
- Ensure that you lower total alkalinity to recommended levels when out of balance to avoid issues with pH and calcium scaling.
- It is always essential to frequently test your pool water and take chemical readings to ensure that water is chemically balanced. If possible, pool water test should be done on a daily or weekly basis depending on which chemical you are testing.
- Rather than guessing the pool chemical level by matching colors with several brands of test strips, I use a digital pool water test kit. If you can find an accurate and easy-to-use pool water test kit like the , this will save you a lot of time as it is easy to use and very effective for a frequent swimming pool water testing purposes. It contains a number of tests including pH, free, combined, total chlorine levels, Bromine, calcium hardness, total alkalinity, and Cyanuric acid. Here is a complete review of LaMotte ColorQ Pro 7LaMotte ColorQ Pro 7 digital pool water test kit.
- To avoid troublesome pool mathematics, after getting the correct values of all chemicals in the pool, I use a pool calculator to find appropriate amounts of pool chemicals to add into the pool. How easy could pool chemistry get?
- Your filtration and circulation system plays a very important role in pool maintenance. A faulty pool filter and poor circulation system will cause dirty and stagnant water, which may bring about green or cloudy pool water.
- You need to ensure that all pumps are working properly. Regularly clean, change, and backwash your pool filter when needed.
Which Pool Water Test Kit do You Use?
This comprehensive DIY guide should work effectively for your efforts in getting rid of swimming pool algae. It is also important to note that maintaining a swimming pool is cheaper than the cost incurred when it turns green, black, yellow or cloudy.
To maintain your pool, ensure that you have all the swimming pool maintenance equipment and chemicals and that you regularly check the levels of all chemicals in your pool to see that they are balanced before things get out of hand.